Anyone have any tips on rear bumper install?

Jackman

TJ Enthusiast
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Aug 5, 2018
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Mt morris,mi
I got my new bumper the other day. I see that I need four additional holes in the rear cross member. Anyone have any tips for fishing bolts into place? Tho four existing bolt holes won't be a problen, but looks like the new holes are going to be a PITA.

Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated
 
Loosen or drop the tank or lower the tank as little as possible.
 
I did not use those holes on my bumper from EAG. Used the factory torx bolts that go up from the bottom and two others per side to fasten. Its my understanding that crossmember is not that strong anyway.
 
So is the back side of the cross member open? It seems to be tubular rather than c channel
 
I did not use those holes on my bumper from EAG. Used the factory torx bolts that go up from the bottom and two others per side to fasten. Its my understanding that crossmember is not that strong anyway.
Just using the factory holes is not an option. Bumper weighs at least twice what the oem bumper. Plus tire carrier and spare ....
 
Frame tie ins are a must in my opinion. Especially once you add a swing arm and spare. Learned that lesson a few years ago
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Damn that reminds me of.my pile of Chevy truck . The gap.between the bed and cab was getting really close at the top .. turns out the frame had serious cracks on the driver and passenger side..
 
Make a spring wire tool and do this:
(Skip to 0:32)


If you have a BL and do that you don't need to drop the tank at all.

When drilling use a step drill bit so you don't punch into the gas tank.

Also a definite yes on the frame tie ins.
 
I just took the nuts off of the studs the gas tank skid is held on with. That allowed the skid to drop enough to get the bolts fished into the innermost holes fairly easily. And, while you have the bumper off, give the cross member a good cleaning and a coat of paint while you have easy access to it.
 
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Poison Spyder is $50. Not a bad price. They have a hole so you can still access the body mount.

The Poison Spyder braces are still the best imho. I'm waiting on a set right now to beef up a recovery point.
 
Make a spring wire tool and do this:
(Skip to 0:32)


If you have a BL and do that you don't need to drop the tank at all.

When drilling use a step drill bit so you don't punch into the gas tank.

Also a definite yes on the frame tie ins.

No BL here but definitely am going to be cautious drilling.i have the bumper mocked up and hole locations marked. Going to fetch a can of Rust-Oleum in the morning to touch up the paint.

Here's what I have right now
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IMG_20190316_190522241.webp
 
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A step drill bit like the picture will prevent drilling accidents.

82716


It prevents you from plunging through as soon as you finish the hole. Plus it leaves a nice chamfered edge on the hole (no burrs).

You can also buy drilling stop collars. Just crank them down tight if you choose those instead
 
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For my Warn Bumper I dropped the gas tank just enough to get the bolts in through the crossmember. I could have dropped it farther. Actually, one of the bolts I could never get in a year and a half ago, but today I had the gas tank completely removed so I looked to see if it was still there. Sure enough, still there, barely threaded in. It’s all in now. I also have Poison Spyder Frame Tie-Ins since I tow.
 
A step drill bit like the picture will prevent drilling accidents.

View attachment 82716

It prevents you from plunging through as soon as you finish the hole. Plus it leaves a nice chamfered edge on the hole (no burrs).

You can also buy drilling stop collars. Just crank them down tight if you choose those instead
Yes thank you I spent 16 years as a machinist. I know what a step drill is