Body Lift Dimensions

[Josh H.]

Hey guys,

Instead of buying a pre made 1-1/4" body lift I'm going to have my buddy who owns a local machine shop make the pucks for me out of aluminum. I just have to draw them up but i have a few questions.

1.) What is the outside diameter of the lift pucks?
2.) What is the ID of the through bolt hole?
3.) What size are the bolts that I will need to reinstall?

Thanks for the help!

 

[matkal]

I'm interested as well.

 

[mrblaine]

Hey guys,

Instead of buying a pre made 1-1/4" body lift I'm going to have my buddy who owns a local machine shop make the pucks for me out of aluminum. I just have to draw them up but i have a few questions.

1.) What is the outside diameter of the lift pucks?

Slightly larger than the OD of the mushroom top on the body mount if you are going to skirt them. Be aware that done correctly, they are not flat.

2.) What is the ID of the through bolt hole?

Slightly larger than the body mount bolts.

3.) What size are the bolts that I will need to reinstall?

Thanks for the help!

The bolt lengths are 1.25" longer than stock. Be aware that in the cargo area, there is no leeway to get the next longer bolt if the 1.25" additional length is not easy to find. If you make that mistake, you will wind up with two holes in the cargo floor over the body mount locations in the gas tank crossmember.

With all the effort you're not putting into this, I'm kinda surprised that you just didn't ask someone to give you a body lift.

 

[mrblaine]

I'm interested as well.

Interested enough to get off your duff and go measure a stock body mount, bolt sizes, and how they fit onto the tub?

 

[matkal]

Interested enough to get off your duff and go measure a stock body mount, bolt sizes, and how they fit onto the tub?

Thank you for the kind response. Jackass.
I’ll just read your response to the OP

 

[Paul Ruggles]

Would I make my own body lift for myself? Yup.

Would I make one for someone else? Nope. I value my time more than that when doing 'side jobs' at work. I save my side job time for my own stuff.

It would be cheaper to buy one than for someone to pay me to make one from scratch. Even something as simple as a body lift, by the time you buy material, cut the stock, machine it, gather up bolts, etc will take up 3 hrs.

If you have a buddy that will do it I guess thats cool. But people need to realize why that stuff cost as much as it does. It's easy to wrap up a couple hundred dollars into something simple like a body lift.

 

[Josh H.]

Slightly larger than the OD of the mushroom top on the body mount if you are going to skirt them. Be aware that done correctly, they are not flat.



Slightly larger than the body mount bolts.

The bolt lengths are 1.25" longer than stock. Be aware that in the cargo area, there is no leeway to get the next longer bolt if the 1.25" additional length is not easy to find. If you make that mistake, you will wind up with two holes in the cargo floor over the body mount locations in the gas tank crossmember.

With all the effort you're not putting into this, I'm kinda surprised that you just didn't ask someone to give you a body lift.

Thanks for the info. I have seen that they are not flat. I'll just take one of my mounts off to get my measurement for the recess. I should've added that to the OP. Just thought someone had the dimensions. Guess not. I see the holes on the available body lifts are most likely 1/2" with since 6 of the bolts are 1/2 - 13 x 4 1/2" and 5 are 7/16- 14 x 4" bolts. I'm not going into this blind just like to double and triple check before moving forward. Sorry for coming off as though I was expecting all the work to be done for me. And from what I've been able to find the OD seems to be 2 1/4 but I haven't been able to verify

Thanks

 

[Josh H.]

Would I make my own body lift for myself? Yup.

Would I make one for someone else? Nope. I value my time more than that when doing 'side jobs' at work. I save my side job time for my own stuff.

It would be cheaper to buy one than for someone to pay me to make one from scratch. Even something as simple as a body lift, by the time you buy material, cut the stock, machine it, gather up bolts, etc will take up 3 hrs.

If you have a buddy that will do it I guess thats cool. But people need to realize why that stuff cost as much as it does. It's easy to wrap up a couple hundred dollars into something simple like a body lift.

This is a buddy that owns and runs a machine shop. He'll be paid for his service just like every other of his customers pay. I just like the idea of having something local made and manufactured, plus it helps him out.

I work in a manufacturing/machining environment. I totally understand the cost of the services.

 

[mrblaine]

Thank you for the kind response. Jackass.
I’ll just read your response to the OP

Got it, you wanna napster it and I'm the jackass.

 

[mrblaine]

Would I make my own body lift for myself? Yup.

Would I make one for someone else? Nope. I value my time more than that when doing 'side jobs' at work. I save my side job time for my own stuff.

It would be cheaper to buy one than for someone to pay me to make one from scratch. Even something as simple as a body lift, by the time you buy material, cut the stock, machine it, gather up bolts, etc will take up 3 hrs.

If you have a buddy that will do it I guess thats cool. But people need to realize why that stuff cost as much as it does. It's easy to wrap up a couple hundred dollars into something simple like a body lift.

Yep, I designed the one for Savvy, drew it up, test fit them, figured out the bolt lengths, the anodizing, and the snubber mounts. I could have had parts for myself added to the production run to save a few bucks, and I still buy them from Savvy.

 

[k-huevo]

...5 are 7/16- 14 x 4" bolts...

The four rear bolts should be a little more than .2" shorter than the one under the radiator, if you need to go a little longer than stock length for bolts available off the shelf. A few extra washers on the rear bolts will suffice. Take a close look and you'll notice raised dots on the six main body caps. The diameter of dot ring is the only area making contact with the body. I don't see how a large diameter puck with skirt would make a difference with support over the cap, and the body side wouldn't need a large bevel. Most likely the body will need to scoot over a bit for all fasteners to align anyway, so I think it's a good thing the pucks have a "little" room to slide in relation to the caps before fastening. I have an anecdotal experience to support that idea. The cups for the stock rubber radiator nubs are just a little more complicated to machine.

 

[mrblaine]

The four rear bolts should be a little more than .2" shorter than the one under the radiator, if you need to go a little longer than stock length for bolts available off the shelf. A few extra washers on the rear bolts will suffice. Take a close look and you'll notice raised dots on the six main body caps. The diameter of dot ring is the only area making contact with the body. I don't see how a large diameter puck with skirt would make a difference with support over the cap, and the body side wouldn't need a large bevel. Most likely the body will need to scoot over a bit for all fasteners to align anyway, so I think it's a good thing the pucks have a "little" room to slide in relation to the caps before fastening. I have an anecdotal experience to support that idea. The cups for the stock rubber radiator nubs are just a little more complicated to machine.

The skirt helps to locate the mount on the cap. The dots work their way into the surface they are touching to the contact area does increase over time. The skirt also helps to hide the fact that a body lift is present. Since the entire arrangement relies on clamping force with bolts in very oversize holes due to the adjustability needed to line them up with the holes in the tub and crossmembers, the more mechanical locators you can build into the system, the better it will be. The slide comes from the hole diameter, not the mating surfaces.

 

[MaloStapalo]

Yep, I designed the one for Savvy, drew it up, test fit them, figured out the bolt lengths, the anodizing, and the snubber mounts. I could have had parts for myself added to the production run to save a few bucks, and I still buy them from Savvy.

And you did a great fucking job, that body lift kit was a real well made piece of equipment. Even the grill snuffers or whatever you call them went in easy.

 

[toximus]

And you did a great fucking job, that body lift kit was a real well made piece of equipment. Even the grill snuffers or whatever you call them went in easy.

After you've dealt with other body lifts and the various other attempted solutions to the snubbers you'll realize just how good those work.

 

[MaloStapalo]

After you've dealt with other body lifts and the various other attempted solutions to the snubbers you'll realize just how good those work.

Luckily for me I understand my newbness, so I've followed advice from others who have made mistakes. The Savvy currie kit was my first suspension and body lift I've purchased.

 

[99-TJ_Wrangler-khed]

Would I make my own body lift for myself? Yup.

Would I make one for someone else? Nope. I value my time more than that when doing 'side jobs' at work. I save my side job time for my own stuff.

It would be cheaper to buy one than for someone to pay me to make one from scratch. Even something as simple as a body lift, by the time you buy material, cut the stock, machine it, gather up bolts, etc will take up 3 hrs.

If you have a buddy that will do it I guess thats cool. But people need to realize why that stuff cost as much as it does. It's easy to wrap up a couple hundred dollars into something simple like a body lift.

EXACTLY!!! people don't understand that its going to cost more for me to machine them " for someone other than myself or a friend who pays for the stock and hardware"... shop rate being $80.00 to $100.00 a hr. + stock + programming time + set-up time + run time = , your better off just buying the ones that were made on a production line. unless you want custom one- off parts/ AND don't mid spending, OR learn how to machine lol but unless you have 20+ years to dedicate specifically machining/programming, then its already too late lol well said Paul !!