Is this bolt supposed to look like this?

If I were you, I’d hug and kiss my wife, kids, parents, and everyone walking down the street. You’re very lucky 🍀
 
I just went out and checked it and you guys are correct. Dang, that makes it even worse. I was going to wrap duct tape around it last night just to keep it from coming forward but when I saw it staying put I felt better.

Regarding the flag nut, where can I get one today? Do I need the specific one for that area or will any flag nut with the proper threading work?
It is a fairly specific shape, the flag that is in order to bend up and around the inside of the bracket and past the bottom slot.

If you want to make one, take one off of the upper front control arm at the back of the arm and replace that with a nut and washer. Then take the flag nut and cut some of the flag away to get it to work. If you hold it with the flag down and the top of the nut away from you, you will trim off some of the left side and then shorten the flag to about half its length. You are trying to just trim enough away so it can fit flat against the inside of the mount. If you drop the trackbar done, you can hold it up in there and see about how big it can be to work.
 
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Tape a nut to a wrench and feed up into place.

I recall Black Magic Brakes having a track bar flag nut.

He has to be aware that there is a lip at the bottom of the mount that prevents the wrench from pushing the nut flat against the inside face of the mount. Also makes it very hard to get a wrench on the nut from the bottom. Generally they have to go in from the driver's side of the mount through the small hole on that end.
 
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My JKS bar came with a locking nut for that bolt. I was able to use a wrench from the bottom side and get enough bite on the nut to impact the bolt into place. After that the splines on the back of the nut were enough to hold it in place while torquing the bolt down.
 
Just called the dealership and they have the nut. The problem is it's been superseded by a new nut and it is no longer a flag nut. It is a flange nut, the kind that mushroom out to a washer on the bottom.
 
I've priced ARP bolts/ studs before. ARP doesn't give stuff away, then you added on a fancy flag nut to boot, I don't think you could sell them for any less and make a profit. I hope you still have the on your website the next time I replace my track bar.
 
Just called the dealership and they have the nut. The problem is it's been superseded by a new nut and it is no longer a flag nut. It is a flange nut, the kind that mushroom out to a washer on the bottom.

That’s exactly what I have on mine right now. Go pick one up cheaper at the hardware store.
 
It is ridiculously overpriced for what it is.

In the meantime I need to grab a nut today (wow that didn't sound good). The dealer does have the nut for $5 BUT it is not a flag nut anymore. I'm assuming I can still get in there (all be it a pain in the arse) and get the nut torqued down properly.
 
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I've priced ARP bolts/ studs before. ARP doesn't give stuff away, then you added on a fancy flag nut to boot, I don't think you could sell them for any less and make a profit. I hope you still have the on your website the next time I replace my track bar.
The hardest part of the flagnut was locating a good supply of the taller flange nuts. They are stupidly priced. They cost me about 2 bucks each in quantities of 150.
 
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I've priced ARP bolts/ studs before. ARP doesn't give stuff away, then you added on a fancy flag nut to boot, I don't think you could sell them for any less and make a profit. I hope you still have the on your website the next time I replace my track bar.

Having purchased plenty of ARB bolts / studs before in my life, I can attest to that.

It's amazing what it costs to build a small block 350 with almost entirely ARP bolts 😲
 
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Once you get the axle side track bar bolted up and torqued to correct spec (55 lbs), make sure you have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth between 10-2 (like a clock) and observe for any movement from both sides of the track bar. There should be absolutely no movement or you will have more death wobble eventually. If it moves at all you need a new track bar.
 
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Did you drill a new hole for the track bar bolt? It appears that there's one to the left (factory?) of where the current bolt is.
 
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OP, I'm glad you made it home in one piece, but your experience got me wondering.

In a pinch, is there another nut used on our Jeeps that could be used to get you home, or could a small pair of vice grip be use to clamp on the threads to keep the bolt from backing out?

Stealing a nut from something like a control arm or a rear shock is not a good scenario, but it might be better than loosing your track bar.
 
Man o man ... Even if you have to drive the bolt back through there and lock it in place with vise grips to get home , do it .

We may have to fine you for running an unsafe rig...new rules.... Chris has a JK to pay for.
 
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Not if you can get it tight.

I'll be ordering your bolt today. Do you offer a forum discount and do you have a rough ETA for it's arrival in NC? In the meantime I will put a normal nut on it but in the long run I don't want to screw around which is why I'm buying yours.

@LukesfirstJeep
That was my first thought in terms of finding a nut but nothing jumped out. A small needle nose vice grip would have done the trick you mention but I didn't have one in my tool kit.

@derekmac
Since I've owned it I've always seen those tow holes. I also noticed on a search for this nut a picture of someone else with the same two holes but they were mounted in the right one.
Here are two pics showing the hole on the right begin used. Is that the hole I should be using?
Anyone with more insight onto the two hole mystery please chime in.

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