Any experiences with the Undercover Fabworks skid plate?

Does anyone have any feedback on this UCF skid plate?
https://undercoverfab.com/no-body-l...ter/72-locker_pump_mount-no_locker_pump_mountIt says it raises ground clearance over the stock skid by 1.5” with no body lift necessary. Also looked at the high clearance one which does require a body lift or Lopro transmission mount.
I already have the UCF aluminum engine oil pan skid plate so looking to possibly get the transfer skid to complete the belly. Is it worth the $452? Just tired of the shovel without going all out for a TT.
I just had this skid along with the engine/transmission skid installed along with Tom Woods SYE and both front and rear drive shafts. We reused the OEM transmission mount. I didn’t realize any added clearance, I had 15 1/2” with stock and 15 1/2” with the new skid. I was expecting a clearance gain of 1 1/2”, that didn’t happen, at least I have a smooth flat belly.
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My exhaust mod was likely due to the Banks monster exhaust that I previously installed, looking back I had bent the Cat hanger For one reason or another, when I installed the skid I had to bend it back so the Cat would not touch. Mine has no vibes with no BL. It hangs down 2.5”.
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I just had this skid along with the engine/transmission skid installed along with Tom Woods SYE and both front and rear drive shafts. We reused the OEM transmission mount. I didn’t realize any added clearance, I had 15 1/2” with stock and 15 1/2” with the new skid. I was expecting a clearance gain of 1 1/2”, that didn’t happen, at least I have a smooth flat belly.View attachment 123009View attachment 123010View attachment 123009
That’s my setup in the next few days minus the front driveshaft. Good to know. Thanks
 
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Do you ever plan to go full TT? If so, it seems silly to me to spend the money twice.

If not, I’d say any alternative to the OEM shovel is a huge upgrade (fewer hangups). The cross ribs and sharp ends front and rear were an asinine design by Jeep. I was thinking about the UCF for a long while until I decided that the weight was important to me and to go full tuck.
 
Do you ever plan to go full TT? If so, it seems silly to me to spend the money twice.

If not, I’d say any alternative to the OEM shovel is a huge upgrade (fewer hangups). The cross ribs and sharp ends front and rear were an asinine design by Jeep. I was thinking about the UCF for a long while until I decided that the weight was important to me and to go full tuck.
no Butt Crack for me, thanks 😊
 
Do you ever plan to go full TT? If so, it seems silly to me to spend the money twice.

If not, I’d say any alternative to the OEM shovel is a huge upgrade (fewer hangups). The cross ribs and sharp ends front and rear were an asinine design by Jeep. I was thinking about the UCF for a long while until I decided that the weight was important to me and to go full tuck.
My local Jeep guru told me to stay away from BL and MML. If I could find a skid that you could use the factory transmission mount that would be the best way to go. He says if you’re looking for ground clearance go with SL and tires.
 
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You can buy one of the ultra high clearance skids and a set of 1" spacer bars. That way if you ever add a body lift, simply remove the spacers and get an extra inch of clearance.

I did look into these before. For the 03-06 there are three skid plate heights:
1. No body lift - installs without a body lift and with the OEM transmission mount. Adds about 1" clearance over stock.
2. Original extra clearance - installs with a body lift OR LoPro mount. (Could also be installed by denting the crap out of the tub.) Adds about 2" clearance over stock.
3. Ultra high clearance - requires a body lift AND a LoPro mount. (One can be omitted by denting the crap out of the tub.) Adds about 3" clearance over stock.

For the 97-02, the deepest skid is not available, as the middle one can be installed on an OEM mount and no body lift. The ultra high clearance requires one or the other IIRC. (Double check that with the vendor.)

All skids can be installed with 1" spacers for future upgrades (LoPro/body lift).

From my conversation with the manufacturer, there is no significant difference in clearance between the 231 and 241 cases, so the rules apply to both.
 
My local Jeep guru told me to stay away from BL and MML. If I could find a skid that you could use the factory transmission mount that would be the best way to go. He says if you’re looking for ground clearance go with SL and tires.

Everything has a trade off, finding the right ones for you is important.
 
Find a different Jeep guru

I was trying to avoid some of the nuance in that :). There’s a contradiction in the recommendation as a SL can only get you so much tires size.

I’d prefer 4” SL with 1.25” BL for 35” than a 6” SL. Not to mention all the stuff that is getting shoved up into my frame that couldn’t be without a BL/MML combo.
 
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My local Jeep guru told me to stay away from BL and MML. If I could find a skid that you could use the factory transmission mount that would be the best way to go. He says if you’re looking for ground clearance go with SL and tires.
Hahahahaha he must not use his Jeep in places where a few more inches of clearance matter. No offense to him but 1.25” of body lift is nothing in comparison to a flat belly skid and significantly higher gas tank skid. Clearance is the by product of a spring lift, the primary benefit of lifting with springs is to provide clearance for suspension cycling of larger tires. I agree with @jjvw , sounds like you need a new Jeep guru
 
Hahahahaha he must not use his Jeep in places where a few more inches of clearance matter. No offense to him but 1.25” of body lift is nothing in comparison to a flat belly skid and significantly higher gas tank skid. Clearance is the by product of a spring lift, the primary benefit of lifting with springs is to provide clearance for suspension cycling of larger tires. I agree with @jjvw , sounds like you need a new Jeep guru
We can’t all have the perfect setup, what works in some areas doesn’t work well enough in others to make it worth the trouble or expense to do that. For some of us just not collecting 50 pounds of geological samples is enough To go with a smoother skid. I’ll never do a tummy tuck, unless it’s on me to get rid of my overhang, I like many others don’t like the looks of a body lift, so I’ll rub rather than do all that work for 2 degrees of BOA. Unless you’re changing your suspension mounting points in relation to your TC outputs (as with a Savvy Mid-Arm) then you’re not listening to your Guru.
 
I bought the middle UCF skid in aluminum (the Extra Clearance). I installed it with 1 inch spacers because I plan to add a BL and MML but hopefully on the right LJ instead of my TJ. Just wanted to get the skid on the TJ, they are easy enough to swap. Even with the 1 inch spacers (which would make it pretty much the same as the no body lift skid) I experienced vibrations and the shifter for manual transmission was too close to the dash. I took the skid off and replaced with the stock skid for now. I have a 2 1/2 inch SL and aftermarket but OEM dimension trans mount.

These two pics were taken with camera on a tripod. You can see how much farther forward the UCF skid is on the frame over stock.

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We can’t all have the perfect setup, what works in some areas doesn’t work well enough in others to make it worth the trouble or expense to do that. For some of us just not collecting 50 pounds of geological samples is enough To go with a smoother skid. I’ll never do a tummy tuck, unless it’s on me to get rid of my overhang, I like many others don’t like the looks of a body lift, so I’ll rub rather than do all that work for 2 degrees of BOA. Unless you’re changing your suspension mounting points in relation to your TC outputs (as with a Savvy Mid-Arm) then you’re not listening to your Guru.
I’ll do a write up on my savvy mid arm next week to show why the 1.25” BL is critical. And I hate the look on the body lift on the rear, which is why I’m cutting and lifting the rear frame section 1.25” to not show it. You’re right, people use their Jeeps for different environments and applications - but a 1.25” BL has so many more benefits that disadvantage I can’t see a Jeep guru not recommending it. I’m a big advocate of function (small butt crack) over form (lower skid) but like you said - to each their own.
 
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I installed the same skid on the stock trans mount and initially I had a vibe caused by the cat touching. I bent the hanger to clear and it went away. Here is a picture of my shifter in first gear. It is a little closer as the transmission did move up 3/4”, it doesn’t hit though.
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I’ll do a write up on my savvy mid arm next week to show why the 1.25” BL is critical. And I hate the look on the body lift on the rear, which is why I’m cutting and lifting the rear frame section 1.25” to not show it. You’re right, people use their Jeeps for different environments and applications - but a 1.25” BL has so many more benefits that disadvantage I can’t see a Jeep guru not recommending it. I’m a big advocate of function (small butt crack) over form (lower skid) but like you said - to each their own.

The hidden body lift is a pretty neat thing to do.
 
Many aftermarket rear bumpers are also capable of being mounted an inch higher to hide the gap. I mounted mine an inch higher and am satisfied with how it hides any gap. The swing out tire carrier would have probably hidden it anyways
 
Many aftermarket rear bumpers are also capable of being mounted an inch higher to hide the gap. I mounted mine an inch higher and am satisfied with how it hides any gap. The swing out tire carrier would have probably hidden it anyways

Some do. But that isn't the same as cutting and lifting which is more than just aesthetic.
 
I’ll do a write up on my savvy mid arm next week to show why the 1.25” BL is critical. And I hate the look on the body lift on the rear, which is why I’m cutting and lifting the rear frame section 1.25” to not show it. You’re right, people use their Jeeps for different environments and applications - but a 1.25” BL has so many more benefits that disadvantage I can’t see a Jeep guru not recommending it. I’m a big advocate of function (small butt crack) over form (lower skid) but like you said - to each their own.
Awesome, I enjoy a good write up, pompous assery a lot less, some of us old timers weren’t as fortunate as you to have someone else design a suspension that would actually make a body lift even remotely considered function. I guess the rest of us that don’t have the Savvy MA and a TT will just have to rough it with our sub par form only mounted skids while you ride off into the sunset with your pants pulled up over your butt crack and your nose in the air. I’m a fan of function too, but I’m also practical and for what I do, mine functions fine, just like it has for the last 19+ years.