Are rear adjustable control arms worth it?

4x4king

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Jan 3, 2019
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Reno NV
I’m getting ready to do some rear end work, think I’m going to stick with the stock Dana 35, and go with the Detroit limited slip differential, new axles etc. etc.
I’m wondering if adjustable control arms for the rear are worth it ? are they needed? Will it improve ride quality? basically what’s the benefits of installing them? If any
Jeep has a 3 inch lift on 33’s
 
You need them when doing a SYE, , but if you aren't and don't have driveline vibes, the stock arms are fine. They are primarily used to adjust the pinion angle.
 
Do you wheel it often? Stock arms wouldn't be my preference if it crawled/flexed often on the trails. The other benefit of having aftermarket controls arms are Flex joints at the ends to allow more articulation which puts less stress on your mounts
 
Mostly just back country trails and sand, I haven’t done any major trails yet, even though I literally live 30 min from Tahoe and 1hlf to the rubicon trail.. I’d like to have some fellow wheelers, just in case I get into a sticky situation.. aka(stuck or broke down) I’m still pretty new to the 4wheel drive world, but loven-it..
 
At 3" of lift you should have rear adjustable control arms, front adjustable control arms, and a SYE.

Adjustable control arms are worth it even at 2" of lift if you value suspension geometry and the ability to adjust things like pinion angle, caster, etc.
 
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Adjustable arms become needed when the pinion needs to be corrected, the axle needs to be positioned and/or the shock travel exceeds the amount from the factory.
 
I second @Chris. I have a 2.5" lift but ride at closer to +3" since my Jeep is light (stock bumpers, no winch, etc.). My Jeep had a heck of a time staying in alignment due to caster issues. Recently, the stock control arm bushings dried out and started to fall apart, so I upgraded to adjustable CA's and man, what a difference.
 
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If you have no issues with yours, then you don't need them. For your needs you also don't need them.

Most people run into issues with that much lift. There is a possibility that down the line it will progress into issues, but typically it is a gradual and slow progressing that you will notice.
 
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You would need them to adjust pinion angle and/or if you are switching to a double cardon driveshaft.
Otherwise, oem arms work (and flex) just fine. Probably not at durable if you plan on playing in the rocks.
 
I’m at 3” front and 2.5” rear and still run stock arms without issue, no TCase drop. The stock c-channel design is good for flex. I play in the rocks. This has happened before. I drove it for months like this. A new replacement was just $25. I will do the rears when I SYE and DC for a TT
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I’m at 3” front and 2.5” rear and still run stock arms without issue, no TCase drop. The stock c-channel design is good for flex. I play in the rocks. This has happened before. I drove it for months like this. A new replacement was just $25. I will do the rears when I SYE and DC for a TT
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Was that a mistype? Because your pictures don't show that they are good in the rocks...
 
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