Tire rubs control arm only on one side

[Michael Alzen]

So I just did a front axle swap from a HP30 to a Dana 44. I've had tire rub on my driver side control arm when making hard left turns for years but passenger side has been fine. Now after the axle swap I only have it on the passenger side when making hard right turns. My wheels theoretically have the correct back spacing and already stick out pretty far so I don't want to add spacers.

What I'm mainly confused about is why it's only happening on one side, and why that side would have switched with the axle swap. The only control arm I adjusted during the swap was the passenger upper when I floated it to match the drivers side upper. If my axle was not square originally causing the rub on the driver side, wouldn't it still rub on the same side? Also, it only rubs when going forward on turns, no rub in reverse at all.

Is it normal to have rub on only one side? If not, how can I fix it? Does it make sense that it only rubs going forward and not in reverse?

 

[01TJ-Blues]

Betting your steering stops aren’t adjust the same. Easy to fix the issue. I also would suggest checking your ball joints and control arm bushings if it’s only hitting going one direction and rubbing.

 

[rouxbicon]

Axle not properly centered?

 

[CodaMan]

Very normal. The axle is centered by the track bar and the turning radius is limited by the turn stops. If you have an adjustable track bar .. adjust it. If you don't have an adjustable track bar then place a washer or two behind the turn stop on whatever side is rubbing until the rubbing goes away.

 

[MangoTango]

X2 on the centered axle especially if it's lifted with the stock trackbar.

 

[Lilnuts]

Did the OP measure to verify the tires are the same distance away from the frame rails or control arms when pointed straight forward?

 

[Michael Alzen]

Thanks all!

I do have an adjustable track bar. I adjusted it on the new axle a few turns but didn't notice a difference. I'll adjust it some more and see if I can get it better.

I didn't measure the tires to control arms but I did use the fender flares to see how much tire is sticking out and it looked pretty even. I also took a swing at Mr. Blaine's method of using the bumper bolts, body mount bolt, and harmonic balancer to measure the axle and came up with about 1/4" off, which seemed close enough to me.

I'll play with the track bar a bit and see what I can come up with. Thanks for the responses so far, I appreciate the help.

 

[CodaMan]

At 1/4 inch off, just adjust the stops or make sure they don't already have washers from someone else.

 

[MangoTango]

When's the last time you had an alignment? With that 1/4" off center and possibly a bent or misaligned tie rod it could stack up enough to cause rubbing on one side.

 

[Michael Alzen]

When's the last time you had an alignment? With that 1/4" off center and possibly a bent or misaligned tie rod it could stack up enough to cause rubbing on one side.

I don't think I've ever paid for an alignment on it. I've thought about it a few times, but my tires wear evenly and it has always driven great, so it felt like wasted money to me. I figured if it needed an alignment I would know because it would drive like crap. I've done the toe in myself and measured from points on axle to various points on the frame to square it as best I can.

I assume if I take it somewhere for an alignment, I'd need to find a 4 wheel specific shop that will adjust control arms?

 

[Michael Alzen]

No washers, but one of the steering stops was between 1/16 - 1/8" shorter than the other one. I stuck a washer behind the short one and will see how it goes the next time I'm out driving it. Even with the washer, when I steer to full lock in each direction there's a lot more space between the drivers side tire/control arm than there is on the passenger side.