Jeep Wrangler PCM and module repair and replacement

Lift kit thinking (correct or not?)

TJim

TJim

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Hey guys!

I am gathering all the information I can in order to make a plan to lift my TJ in the near future! I want some help, so I'm confident that my thinking/plan is complete and correct.

The plan is to lift it 2-2.5 inches, and run 31" tires.

So:

1) Shocks, Springs, and Bumpstops (I'm going to run an 2" OME lift kit)

2) SYE, and DC driveshaft. (I do not want to do a transfer case drop, since my goal is to gain clearance, I do not do it for the looks)

3) FRONT & REAR Adjustable Track Bars. (Should I buy an adjustable track bar for the rear too? WHAT IS the a difference, If I use a Track Bar Relocation Bracket for the rear?

4) Rear Upper & Lower Control Arms. (There is no need for front control arms, right?)


Finally, what about the body lift? Is there a reason to do a body lift, besides doing a tummy tuck, or fitting larger tires like 33"?
 
C.J. Roberts said:
You can run 31s without a lift.
Click to expand...

I forgot to write in the first post, that I would like to do it as better as possible. It is my daily driver that I enjoy to off road.

I now have 29" tires that on the trail are quite close to rubbing, so I do not think that I could run 31s that would work as they are supposed to.
 
You can get away with just using the drop bracket from the OME kit in the rear. And truthfully you could live with the stock bracket up front too. Your front axle will be around a 1/2" to the left side, which is perfectly fine unless your OCD kicks in. For a stock replacement you can use Rough Country 7572 if you don't want to drill out your frame side bracket. That's what I went with and am very happy with it. I'm also running the OME kit with Rancho 5000x shocks. I have a Rubicon so don't need to deal with a SYE. Some get no drive line vibe with this setup so you might want to hold off on the SYE until you find out if you get a vibe. Then just use the skid lower until you find out if it is necessary. You just raised the whole body 2 1/2" so a week or two with only 2" up at the skid isn't so bad. If drop is needed at all. Running stock control arms front and back are fine with this lift. The rear adjustable are only needed when you use a DC driveshaft.
 
TJim said:
Hey guys!

I am gathering all the information I can in order to make a plan to lift my TJ in the near future! I want some help, so I'm confident that my thinking/plan is complete and correct.

The plan is to lift it 2-2.5 inches, and run 31" tires.

So:

1) Shocks, Springs, and Bumpstops (I'm going to run an 2" OME lift kit)

2) SYE, and DC driveshaft. (I do not want to do a transfer case drop, since my goal is to gain clearance, I do not do it for the looks)

3) FRONT & REAR Adjustable Track Bars. (Should I buy an adjustable track bar for the rear too? WHAT IS the a difference, If I use a Track Bar Relocation Bracket for the rear?

4) Rear Upper & Lower Control Arms. (There is no need for front control arms, right?)


Finally, what about the body lift? Is there a reason to do a body lift, besides doing a tummy tuck, or fitting larger tires like 33"?
Click to expand...

You do not need an SYE or DC driveshaft for that lift and if you don't need an SYE and DC driveshaft you don't need new rear control arms. To solve the 50/50 chance that lift gives you vibrations, those can be corrected with a MML. JKS motor mount spacers are a great way to do an MML if your current motor mounts are good.

As far as adjustable track bars, install the lift, let it settle and see what the axle offset is. If it's too much for your liking then add an adjustable track bar to the front and a relocation bracket to the rear.
 
Thanks for the answers! So, I should just install the new springs, shocks and bumpstops. Also, the front and rear track bars (or brackets), and wait to see if I get vibrations or not.
 
TJim said:
Thanks for the answers! So, I should just install the new springs, shocks and bumpstops. Also, the front and rear track bars (or brackets), and wait to see if I get vibrations or not.
Click to expand...

Correct. If you do get vibrations, a 1" MML (motor mount lift) may very well solve them.

If not, you'll need to lower the transfer case a bit, or get a SYE, CV driveshaft, and adjustable rear control arms. The latter is the much more expensive route of course.
 
Chris said:
Correct. If you do get vibrations, a 1" MML (motor mount lift) may very well solve them.

If not, you'll need to lower the transfer case a bit, or get a SYE, CV driveshaft, and adjustable rear control arms. The latter is the much more expensive route of course.
Click to expand...


So a 1" MML is an alternative for SYE , CV driveshaft, and rear control arms?

Also, what about the body lift? Is there a reason to do a body lift, besides doing a tummy tuck, or fitting larger tires like 33"?
 
TJim said:
So a 1" MML is an alternative for SYE , CV driveshaft, and rear control arms?

Also, what about the body lift? Is there a reason to do a body lift, besides doing a tummy tuck, or fitting larger tires like 33"?
Click to expand...

At 2" of lift, a MML can sometimes be an alternative, yes. However, it just depends. Sometimes people get lucky and all they need is the 1" MML and the vibrations are gone. Other times they vibrations don't go away and you need to either lower the transfer case or go with the SYE and CV driveshaft combo (and adjustable rear control arms).

If you aren't going to do a tummy tuck, there's no reason to do a body lift unless you want to run larger tires. A body lift is really seen as necessity once you start tucking things up into the frame, then you really can't get away without it.
 
Chris said:
At 2" of lift, a MML can sometimes be an alternative, yes. However, it just depends. Sometimes people get lucky and all they need is the 1" MML and the vibrations are gone. Other times they vibrations don't go away and you need to either lower the transfer case or go with the SYE and CV driveshaft combo (and adjustable rear control arms).

If you aren't going to do a tummy tuck, there's no reason to do a body lift unless you want to run larger tires. A body lift is really seen as necessity once you start tucking things up into the frame, then you really can't get away without it.
Click to expand...


okay Chris! Thanks for the help.

I guess tummy tuck is the next step, to get some more clearance. When the budget allows it!
 
TJim said:
okay Chris! Thanks for the help.

I guess tummy tuck is the next step, to get some more clearance. When the budget allows it!
Click to expand...

Yep, if you want to do the tummy tuck, you'll need the 1" body lift, a full set of adjustable control arms, SYE, CV driveshaft, etc.

It's one of the best things you can do if you plan to off-road at all though. That factory skid plate hangs so low that it just gets hung up on anything and everything.
 
Other benefits of the BL is more room under the hood if you're adding stuff, and you will have a lower center of gravity since the frame, engine, and transmission don't move.
If all you're going to run are 31's, personally, I'd do a 1" budget boost (spring blocks) and a 1.25" BL/ MML. stock size Rancho X's and be done
Then you won't run into (potential) driveline/ tracking/ steering issues either.
My .02
 
I did 31's, budget boost, rear track bar bracket, bump stops, shocks. Worst thing about the 31's is lack of power in 5th gear on the highway. Great thing is, if I don't like the lift, I am only out a couple hundred dollars.

Depends on your future plans and how ok you are with 31's. That's a lot of money for 31's. Most people on this board can't stop at 31...

Here is my Jeep Page with the lift
 
Thanks for the answers!

Possibly this is a noob question, but:

what is the difference between a 2-2.5 inch spring lift vs 1 inch spring lift + 1-1.25 inch body lift?

First option is more clearance, second option is less clearance than the first, but less chance to get vibrations?


ballpark said:
Depends on your future plans and how ok you are with 31's. That's a lot of money for 31's. Most people on this board can't stop at 31...
Click to expand...

99.99% I am not going to go in a bigger tire than 31" in this vehicle, since I have a 2.4L motor.
 
Last edited:
If you are going larger than 31s on a 4 banger you will be looking at re-gearing the axles. If this us your plan then I would do a cheap spacer lift to fit the 31s and decide from there where you want to take it. Save the cash from new springs and such for when you decide what lift you want to be at.
 
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Goatman said:
If you are going larger than 31s on a 4 banger you will be looking at re-gearing the axles. If this us your plan then I would do a cheap spacer lift to fit the 31s and decide from there where you want to take it. Save the cash from new springs and such for when you decide what lift you want to be at.
Click to expand...

I dont plan to lift it more than 2.5 inches or run more than 31s, especially with this motor.

MAYBE, in the distant future I will think about a small body lift to do a tummy tuck.

No more than 2.5" spring lift or 31" tires though. For sure. It's my daily driver so I dont want it to be a dog.
 
TJim said:
Thanks! I appreciate the info. I am going take a good look.

Do you think there is a difference between rear adjustable track bar vs relocation bracket for rear track bar? (besides the money of course)
Click to expand...

Not for a lift under 3 inches.
 
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