Should I replace all the major suspension components

[Jeeptj26.2]

I am going to finally jump and lift my TJ (4.0 Manual X stock) 2.5inches (might add the 1in. BL). I was planning on piecing it together with a Pro Comp or Freedom brand 2 -2.5 springs. Then add the Rancho RS5000x shocks. But I took a look under my Jeep and realized all the components are OLD. A lot of cracked bushings, oil stains and old bolts. Not much rust, its all surface on the bolts and other spots. So I am asking, what else should I replace? What other components or parts should I just have upgraded or replaced with the lift? This my DD but I don't put many miles to begin with, maybe 20-30 a week. 150-200 miles in a month would be a lot. I don't wheel too often, maybe once or twice a year. I go to Cleghorn, Azusa Canyon ORV, Lytle Creek and other moderate trails. Manual 4.0. and I am not very mechanically inclined, other than motor and team by oil changes. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[Babygools99]

From the looks of it, the first thing i would tackle is that leaking rear main seal. With the amount of deiving weekly, i would peraonally go ahead and put the lift on and see the drivability, and then fix parts as needed. It also really depends on your budget tbh.

 

[pagrey]

At your Jeeps age I'd replace all the control arms with stock replacements. It'll make your Jeep drive like new. I'd also read and learn how to do the dry steer test to see if any components on the front end need replacement. Nothing there really needs work unless it's shot.

For what it's worth my rear main seal has leaked for about 100k miles, didn't care when it started and don't care now. It helps keep my Jeep rust free.

 

[Rolex20073rd]

When i put my 2.5” lift on I didn’t worry about replacing anything else. Like pagrey said, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. I didn’t need to fix anything until about a year later.

I also replaced my rear main seal but she still has a slow leak. It’s just a 4.0 thing I guess.

 

[Babygools99]

The rear main seal replacement isn’t a do or die replacement by any means, but slow leaks only turn into bigger leaks later on down the road. I personally just find that it’s a great opportunity to look around at the lower end of the motor and make sure everything is in order. If a bearing cap is spun or something along those lines is going on, the last thing you’ll be worried about it suspension components. Just some reassurance and a cleaner undercarriage is how I see it. Never hurts.

 

[Jeeptj26.2]

From the looks of it, the first thing i would tackle is that leaking rear main seal. With the amount of deiving weekly, i would peraonally go ahead and put the lift on and see the drivability, and then fix parts as needed. It also really depends on your budget tbh.

I saw that leak seems be to be coming from behind the block. I want to take to have it taken care of to make sure it doesnt turn into anything worse down the line. It started leaking about a year ago and its a slow drip. A rear main seal I assume is not something a mechanical novice like me can handle. Would you happen to know what would be a reasonable price to pay a repair shop?
Regarding budget, its a healthy budget. Its tempting to get a nice and fancy lift kit but I've done enough homework to know I don't need a Currie suspension short ot long arm suspension with reservoir shocks and all that cool stuff. So I am content and happy with a good lift that will hande DD duties and off-roading a couple times a year.
So just coils, shocks, bump stop extensions and a tcase drop kit should be all I need from what it sounds like. Any other recommended parts to ensure no vibrations or death wobble?

 

[Jeeptj26.2]

At your Jeeps age I'd replace all the control arms with stock replacements. It'll make your Jeep drive like new. I'd also read and learn how to do the dry steer test to see if any components on the front end need replacement. Nothing there really needs work unless it's shot.

For what it's worth my rear main seal has leaked for about 100k miles, didn't care when it started and don't care now. It helps keep my Jeep rust free.

I think I have read about a dry steer test. I will try that out, thanks for that advice. And the leak has been a very slow drip.
What kind of 2 1/2 lift did you go with? Why no BL along with it? I am still debating weather I should do the 1in BL.

 

[Jeeptj26.2]

When i put my 2.5” lift on I didn’t worry about replacing anything else. Like pagrey said, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. I didn’t need to fix anything until about a year later.

I also replaced my rear main seal but she still has a slow leak. It’s just a 4.0 thing I guess.

Thanks for the feedback. May I ask what kind of 2 1/2 lift kit you went with? Did you add a BL?

 

[Jeeptj26.2]

Sorry, you didnt mention having the 2 1/2 lift, it was another member. My mistake.

I think I have read about a dry steer test. I will try that out, thanks for that advice. And the leak has been a very slow drip.
What kind of 2 1/2 lift did you go with? Why no BL along with it? I am still debating weather I should do the 1in BL.

 

[Flivver250]

I like overkill when it comes to vehicles. You can't go wrong if you install quality parts correctly. If I bought another TJ with unknown heritage today, here is a short list of some of things I'd automatically do. Not in any particular order.

1. Transfer case cable shifter
2. Total ZJ steering conversion
3. 4 new stronger axles with seals and bearings
4. ball joints
5. 4 new calipers and rotors (pads too of course)
6. Change all fluids
7. Compression test (should be done before purchase)
8. Completely new cooling system
9. new belts, hoses, idler and tensioner
10. New plugs, air cleaner
11. New springs
12. New shocks
13. new U-joints
14. Any leaking seal or gasket replaced
15. Good C rated tires
16. Thorough cleaning inside and out
17. Insulate the floor
18. Good stereo

Regears, lifts, SYE and all would be case by case basis. In Florida I'd stick with a stock configuration, if I was in Idaho I might go with a 4" lift. I would only buy a Jeep with zero rust.

 

[Jeeptj26.2]

I like overkill when it comes to vehicles. You can't go wrong if you install quality parts correctly. If I bought another TJ with unknown heritage today, here is a short list of some of things I'd automatically do. Not in any particular order.

1. Transfer case cable shifter
2. Total ZJ steering conversion
3. 4 new stronger axles with seals and bearings
4. ball joints
5. 4 new calipers and rotors (pads too of course)
6. Change all fluids
7. Compression test (should be done before purchase)
8. Completely new cooling system
9. new belts, hoses, idler and tensioner
10. New plugs, air cleaner
11. New springs
12. New shocks
13. new U-joints
14. Any leaking seal or gasket replaced
15. Good C rated tires
16. Thorough cleaning inside and out
17. Insulate the floor
18. Good stereo

Regears, lifts, SYE and all would be case by case basis. In Florida I'd stick with a stock configuration, if I was in Idaho I might go with a 4" lift. I would only buy a Jeep with zero rust.

I have done some of the things in the list. But those are good recommendations to consider doing to keep my TJ road worthy for another 150k miles. Thanks!

 

[Flivver250]

When you do your lift, factor in adjustable track bars and rear adjustable control arms at minimum. A slip yoke eliminator and a Tom Woods drive shaft will eliminate a lot of the game playing you can go through trying to eliminate the resulting drive line vibrations. A lot less painful when you go for one shot one kill. I have (tongue in cheek) about finished my first TJ. Lessons learned from that will make me wise and efficient on my next one. I did a lot of extra work and extra buying. Example: I changed all my DS u-joints and axle u-joints, then went with new axles and a new rear drive shaft. No regrets, but I could have saved some steps. I F'd around with driveline vibration when I should have gone right to SYE and DS. I have also learned, trust the nuts, bolts and wires you did yourself. Never trust a shop's work. Verify every fastener they touched. Great shops are hard to find, and worth every penny when you do find one.

 

[Goatman]

I would strongly recommend against dumping a pile of parts on your TJ all at once. Any problem, be it a vibe, a squeak, a shudder, ect. will be so much harder to track down. Put in the 2 1/2" springs (OME is my choice) and new Rancho 5000x shocks if needed (0-2" lift). Then drive it for a week to be sure all is good. Then pick put in new trackbars. Drive for a week. Then new (stock) control arms for one axle. Wait a week. You get the idea.
Even mechanics that do this stuff all the time can end up chasing their tail a bit when so many different parts are changed all at once. This way you have a much lower chance of forgetting to tighten a bolt or rushing to finish and end up with a few spare parts left over. You will learn more and be able to fix an issue easier because you know where it is coming from.

 

[Babygools99]

I saw that leak seems be to be coming from behind the block. I want to take to have it taken care of to make sure it doesnt turn into anything worse down the line. It started leaking about a year ago and its a slow drip. A rear main seal I assume is not something a mechanical novice like me can handle. Would you happen to know what would be a reasonable price to pay a repair shop?
Regarding budget, its a healthy budget. Its tempting to get a nice and fancy lift kit but I've done enough homework to know I don't need a Currie suspension short ot long arm suspension with reservoir shocks and all that cool stuff. So I am content and happy with a good lift that will hande DD duties and off-roading a couple times a year.
So just coils, shocks, bump stop extensions and a tcase drop kit should be all I need from what it sounds like. Any other recommended parts to ensure no vibrations or death wobble?

Someone up there had mentioned to check your control arm bushings. I would check those, i would also make sure there is no slack in the track bar. Make sure the splines in your pitman arm connecting to the steering box have no slack and the tie rod connecting it as well has no really bad slop. I would just crawl under it with the tires on the ground and start moving rhings around by hand. If it's really sloppy youll notice, and repair as needed.

 

[Babygools99]

X2 on the dumping in parts all at once. Repair as needed.

I would strongly recommend against dumping a pile of parts on your TJ all at once. Any problem, be it a vibe, a squeak, a shudder, ect. will be so much harder to track down. Put in the 2 1/2" springs (OME is my choice) and new Rancho 5000x shocks if needed (0-2" lift). Then drive it for a week to be sure all is good. Then pick put in new trackbars. Drive for a week. Then new (stock) control arms for one axle. Wait a week. You get the idea.
Even mechanics that do this stuff all the time can end up chasing their tail a bit when so many different parts are changed all at once. This way you have a much lower chance of forgetting to tighten a bolt or rushing to finish and end up with a few spare parts left over. You will learn more and be able to fix an issue easier because you know where it is coming from.
[/QUOTE/]

 

[Infernicus]

I am going to finally jump and lift my TJ (4.0 Manual X stock) 2.5inches (might add the 1in. BL). I was planning on piecing it together with a Pro Comp or Freedom brand 2 -2.5 springs. Then add the Rancho RS5000x shocks. But I took a look under my Jeep and realized all the components are OLD. A lot of cracked bushings, oil stains and old bolts. Not much rust, its all surface on the bolts and other spots. So I am asking, what else should I replace? What other components or parts should I just have upgraded or replaced with the lift? This my DD but I don't put many miles to begin with, maybe 20-30 a week. 150-200 miles in a month would be a lot. I don't wheel too often, maybe once or twice a year. I go to Cleghorn, Azusa Canyon ORV, Lytle Creek and other moderate trails.....

I would absolutely not be rebuilding your entire truck at this point. As Goatman suggested, just replace your factory springs and shocks. If you need more space for larger tires, then consider a body lift.

I installed 2.5" OME and Rancho RS5000x shocks. It is a daily driver and 4 times a year (maybe) offroader. The most off-roading I do is on the beach and it's not bad at all. I was perfectly fine stock. I did not need a 5" lift and 35's. I wanted to stay at 32's.

The only thing I added was the rear track bar relocation bracket, was it necessary, probably not. I made provisions to extend my bumpstops, but again, there were no issues with rubbing or the shocks bottoming out.

I had purchased a tcase drop kit, but I had ZERO vibrations/binding after the lift.

It seems that you do limited offroading, and would like a comfortable ride. That was one of my main concerns. If I drove 20 miles a week I'd throw some $50 spacers all around and just drive it.
But the correct way is springs and shocks.

I NEED to replace most of my control arms due to the bushings being shot. I will be replacing with factory style and not adjustable because I do not have the need for them.

I'm sure my entire front end needs replacing, but joints will not be just disintegrating any time soon, lol.

TLDR: Install springs and shocks, then evaluate what you NEED to replace after. If you have clunking and banging then start chasing down what needs to be replaced.

Enjoy!!!

 

[Jeeptj26.2]

I would absolutely not be rebuilding your entire truck at this point. As Goatman suggested, just replace your factory springs and shocks. If you need more space for larger tires, then consider a body lift.

I installed 2.5" OME and Rancho RS5000x shocks. It is a daily driver and 4 times a year (maybe) offroader. The most off-roading I do is on the beach and it's not bad at all. I was perfectly fine stock. I did not need a 5" lift and 35's. I wanted to stay at 32's.

The only thing I added was the rear track bar relocation bracket, was it necessary, probably not. I made provisions to extend my bumpstops, but again, there were no issues with rubbing or the shocks bottoming out.

I had purchased a tcase drop kit, but I had ZERO vibrations/binding after the lift.

It seems that you do limited offroading, and would like a comfortable ride. That was one of my main concerns. If I drove 20 miles a week I'd throw some $50 spacers all around and just drive it.
But the correct way is springs and shocks.

I NEED to replace most of my control arms due to the bushings being shot. I will be replacing with factory style and not adjustable because I do not have the need for them.

I'm sure my entire front end needs replacing, but joints will not be just disintegrating any time soon, lol.

TLDR: Install springs and shocks, then evaluate what you NEED to replace after. If you have clunking and banging then start chasing down what needs to be replaced.

Enjoy!!!

Thanks! That is sound advice and you're right, I want the look of a slight lift but also don't want a 4-6inch lift. No need for what I like and need. Just a decent lift to fit 32/33s and that's it. I will follow the consistent advice and just do the shocks and springs and work from there if a need comes up! Do you have a pic of your Jeep with the 2.5lift?

 

[Infernicus]

Thanks! That is sound advice and you're right,....Do you have a pic of your Jeep with the 2.5lift?

This was just last month.
2.5" OME + Rancho RS5000x shocks.
32" 265/75 16 Mickey Thompson MTZ

 

[Jeeptj26.2]

This was just last month.
2.5" OME + Rancho RS5000x shocks.
32" 265/75 16 Mickey Thompson MTZ
View attachment 160482

I like the stance! Thanks for sharing a pic and for the advice. I think I will go with 32s also.

 

[Infernicus]

I like the stance! Thanks for sharing a pic and for the advice. I think I will go with 32s also.

I also went with this size tire because it is narrower than a 32x11.50x15 equivalent. The tires are about 10.5 wide. I also got an amazing deal on this set.