TJ Sealed Headlight Suggestions

CybrSlydr

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Want to see what you guys think are a good upgrade/replacement for the stock beams with another sealed beam setup.

Thanks!
 
Upgrade and sealed beam, I don't know about that one. If you want to keep glass then you might consider some nice H4 housings.

As for H4 housings; there are so many to choose from. Hella, PIAA, IPF, KC, & Kyoto (sp?)
IF you choose to go that route; make sure to install a dedicated electrical harness instead of using the 18 ga factory wiring to power the H4 bulbs.
In my past two Jeeps I installed Hella and IPF H4 housings since they wee the easiest to find at the time.
 
As for H4 housings; there are so many to choose from. Hella, PIAA, IPF, KC, & Kyoto (sp?)
IF you choose to go that route; make sure to install a dedicated electrical harness instead of using the 18 ga factory wiring to power the H4 bulbs.
In my past two Jeeps I installed Hella and IPF H4 housings since they wee the easiest to find at the time.

I was hoping for something relatively inexpensive and plug & play rather than needing an entire harness.
 
Here's a number of options that won't break the bank:


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Cibie 7" H4 Headlights

These would be my top choice for halogen replacement upgrade hosings. There have been many comparisons of the Cibie 2" versus the Hella 7" but the Cibie always seems to edge the Hella out in regards to light output just a bit.

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Hella 7" Vision Plus H4 Headlights

Often times referred to as "Hella E-code headlights". A close second to the Cibie, these 7" halogen headlight upgrades are a solid choice for improved light output over stock.

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KC HiLiTES 7" H4 Headlights

I can't comment on these personally, but the people who are running them really seam to like them, so I'd put them right up there with the Cibie and Hella H4 lights.

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Rugged Ridge 7" Crystal H2 Headlights

The whole 'crystal' look is just that, a look. To some people it looks really good, to others it doesn't. However, this is another viable option for a halogen headlight upgrade.
 
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I was hoping for something relatively inexpensive and plug & play rather than needing an entire harness.

There are a few reasons why I recommend the harness.
If you were to check the voltage at the factory headlight connectors; you might be surprised to find only 11.3-11.6V.
The 18 gauge factory headlight wiring will only support about 7.5A.
No matter what headlights you install whether they are sealed or H4 housings; they will not provide much of a headlight upgrade with voltage and wiring like that.
 
There are a few reasons why I recommend the harness.
If you were to check the voltage at the factory headlight connectors; you might be surprised to find only 11.3-11.6V.
The 18 gauge factory headlight wiring will only support about 7.5A.
No matter what headlights you install whether they are sealed or H4 housings; they will not provide much of a headlight upgrade with voltage and wiring like that.
So what you're saying is that the wiring is inadequate for even the factory sealed beams?
 
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You know you have a problem when you have to turn them off and on again to see if they're actually on?
 
My thoughts on the subject:

1. The factory 7" sealed beams are 60/55W H4 bulbs inside sealed glass housings. Despite all the advertising hype, there is not a lot of difference between brands and none will be a true upgrade.

2. A simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade would be to convert to 7" Hella E Codes, Cibie, KC, etc. with standard 60/55 H4 bulbs. The improvement comes primarily from the better lighting patterns of the lenses rather than the bulbs. (I consider a conversion to cheap Chinese LED headlamps or Trucklite knockoffs to be a downgrade rather than an upgrade.)

3. There are "better" 60/55w H4 bulbs on the market. What makes them better is a slightly higher color temperature that improves visibility over the standard, more yellow H4 bulbs of the same wattage, but not so close to the blue part of the color scale as to result in glare.

4. There is no need to upgrade the headlight harness if one is converting to "E-Codes" of whatever brand and using standard 60/55w H4 bulbs because the current draw is exactly the same as the OEM Wagner bulbs. (A 60/55 watt 12v bulb consumes only 4.6 amps on low beam and 5 amps on high beam, well below the 7.5 amp design limitation of the headlamp switch and 18 ga. wire.)

5. Although not strictly necessary, an aftermarket headlight harness that allows the bulbs to be powered directly from the battery/alternator rather than through the headlamp switch will eliminate any risk of damaging the headlamp switch from excess current and will result in the bulbs burning brighter because they will be getting a full 12v. (The downside of burning at a full 12v is that the life of the bulbs will be shorter, but how much shorter is anyone's guess.)

6. Going with brighter H4 bulbs such as 80/55w or 100/55w will definitely require an aftermarket harness.

7. Aiming is everything. Too many people aim their E-Codes way too high and then wonder why they can't see the road directly in front of them and are lighting up the tree tops and getting flashed on high beam. Aiming instructions specifically for E-Codes can be found here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/images/Aim.pdf


I use 7" Hella E code lenses with Philips Xtreme Vision +130% H4 bulb and the factory headlight harness. The improvement over stock is dramatic, replacement H4 bulbs are readily available anywhere, and retaining the factory harness has caused no issues.

This Hella kit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G72SKQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

These bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMEEOV2/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Amazon tip: Since prices vary from day to day, if you are not in a hurry to purchase you can use camelcamelcamel.com to track the variations and send you alerts when the product(s) you want hit your target price(s). For example, the Hella kit linked above, $87.91 on 5/12/20, was only $55.99 on 2/8/19.

https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B001G72SKQ?context=search
https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B00NMEEOV2?context=search



YMMV
 
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