Yeah, this thing ran like s**t. It’s still running like s**t. It runs smooth if I’m just coasting, but if I give it any gas it’s rough.
When you say it's smooth while coasting, does it idle normally but stumbles under load? If so that can be classic symptom of a weak coil.
So trying to put together the whole picture, was this thing running like garbage before you got involved? Like maybe they were having issues with it prior, parked it for awhile, the thing sat & eventually wouldn't start, you changed the plugs, wires, cap & rotor and now it's right back to where it was?
If that's the case after a basic tune-up & top engine clean I'd move on to diagnosing mechanical issues.
Compression checks are real easy to do, here a copy & paste from our manual (this is from my '99 but the precedure is the same & I'd assume the pressure specs are as well):
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disable the fuel system. (Refer to Group 14, Fuel System for the correct procedure)
(5) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(6) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
(7) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
Pressure Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . 827 to 1,034 kPa (120 to 150 psi)
Max. Variation Between Cylinders . . . . . 206 kPa (30 psi)