The Toyota dealer told me they changed it. But I never asked for paperwork. The valve cover looks brand new on it. So I am hoping it is good to go. I will take a picture, if you don't mind giving me your onion on it.
Questions about transmission, fluids, springs, horsepower, and more
- Thread starter FamilyFunWagon
- Start date
Is it a Rubicon model?
Unfortunately the highest you can go in a non-Rubicon is 5.13. 5.38 and 5.89 gears only work in Rubicon models
Thank you. I appreciate all the knowledge I can gather. I just want to make sure I am taking care of this thing.
I just saw you do have a Rubicon. Personally I would go with 5.38 in that case. A little extra torque won’t hurt. The only thing you might have to be careful of is driveline vibrations. Do you have a rear CV driveshaft or a stock driveshaft?
CV stands for Constant Velocity. The stock rear driveshaft has two U-joints, one at each end. Aftermarket driveshafts typically have a Double Cardan joint (A type of CV joint) at the transfer case. You can identify double cardan joints because they have two u-joints together.
Your stock front driveshaft is a CV shaft. If you look at it, it has two u-joints at the transfer case instead of one, or three joints total.
So if your rear driveshaft has three u-joints instead of two (just like the front) you have a CV shaft. If you’re unsure, take a picture of the rear driveshaft where it bolts to the transfer case.
That is in fact a double cardan shaft. This is a good thing because it significantly reduces the odds of driveline vibrations after regearing.
If installed correctly, the differential pinion should be at the same angle as the main part of the driveshaft, plus or minus a degree (usually a degree lower).
So far it looks like whoever built this thing knew what they were doing. A lot of people cheap out and simply drop the transfer case skid.
Thank you are all the information you are feeding my way. I am new to this stuff. So forgive my ignorance.
I noticed when I first saw it doesn't have anything crazy, but it seems as though they built it to be dependable. Which is what I was hoping for.
I was worried I jumped on the first Rubicon I found, but I am beginning to become comfortable with my purchase.
Yes, that is the correct way to measure. It looks like you have about 3” of lift, assuming you’re on a flat surface. You can also measure the rear springs, which should be about 11” with 3” of lift.
Okay,
One last question and I will stop for today. If I buy the OEM MOAB wheels. Will the tires be inset? Because the tires that are on it are 33x12.5x15 on15x10 wheels. Those Bushwacker fenders stick way out. I guess i'm worried with the OEM wheels it will look funky. If the wheels are sitting in too far. possible spacers?
One last question and I will stop for today. If I buy the OEM MOAB wheels. Will the tires be inset? Because the tires that are on it are 33x12.5x15 on15x10 wheels. Those Bushwacker fenders stick way out. I guess i'm worried with the OEM wheels it will look funky. If the wheels are sitting in too far. possible spacers?
Factory wheels have too much backspacing for 12.5" wide tires which means a factory wheel would position the tire's inside sidewall too close to the suspension and cause rubbing. Factory wheels have 5.25" to 5.5" of backspacing, the amount of backspacing you want is closer to 4".
This is how the backspacing is measured, the yellow tape measure is measuring it... from the inner-most edge of the wheel to the wheel's mounting surface.
This is how the backspacing is measured, the yellow tape measure is measuring it... from the inner-most edge of the wheel to the wheel's mounting surface.
Hey Jerry,
I see your in Southern California do you know of any reputable shops for rehearing my jeep? I dont plan on going 35" tires, but I am still leaning towards 5.13. It just seems to bog down too much on all these california hills.
My uncles neighbor has been doing this for years at an offroad shop. He has a full shop in his backyard. I am going to see what he would charge. But I want to reference a reputable shop and see if the price would be close to include a warranty.
Martin at Mobile Gears, they do gear installs Saturdays in Corona in a shop they rent space from. During the week they go to different locations installing gears, that's all they do. They have a superb reputation even with Revolution Gear & Axle, that's how I found out about them. He installed a replacement set of gears for me in my rear axle (made the mistake of using a synthetic gear lube and they got too hot during the break-in) and it went perfectly, no problems.
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