Suggestion & Tips for Tow Hooks / Recovery Points

[TJim]

Hey guys!

I am figuring out my recovery points/gear, and I want to remain as stock as possible, so no aftermarket bumpers etc.

FRONT RECOVERY POINTS
So,I have those front tow hooks.

I am thinking to use a 3m strap, each end of the strap in each tow hook, and a longer (9m) strap in the middle of the shorter strap, so I will distribute the force of the pull in both sides of the vehicle as evenly as possible, in order to diminish any possible danger of damages. Is my thinking correct? Do I need anything else, besides a winch (future plan) for the front side?

REAR RECOVERY POINTS

My current setup is not safe, I am not pulling anyone though.

So, I want to make it right. There are two options as far as I know by reading some threads.

1)

Is this tow hook rated for a full recovery pull? Where can I find it? (I cannot really find it anywhere)

2)

I am really hesitant about this option, and I would like to be my last choice, since I don't really want to drill any holes in the frame.

SO, are there any other options I am missing for the rear? Should I install two rear tow hooks as well, so I will distribute the force?

 

[TJ4Jim]

Another option for the rear is a trailer hitch with a 2" receiver.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Hey guys!

I am figuring out my recovery points/gear, and I want to remain as stock as possible, so no aftermarket bumpers etc.

FRONT RECOVERY POINTS
So,I have those front tow hooks.

View attachment 163934

I am thinking to use a 3m strap, each end of the strap in each tow hook, and a longer (9m) strap in the middle of the shorter strap, so I will distribute the force of the pull in both sides of the vehicle as evenly as possible, in order to diminish any possible danger of damages. Is my thinking correct? Do I need anything else, besides a winch (future plan) for the front side?



View attachment 163939
I am really hesitant about this option, and I would like to be my last choice, since I don't really want to drill any holes in the frame.

SO, are there any other options I am missing for the rear? Should I install two rear tow hooks as well, so I will distribute the force?

Yes you definitely need rear extraction points too. That photo is my recommendation and you only need to drill one hole, the other hole is already there. And don't worry about drilling that hole, the frame won't notice it. And do NOT drill all the way through the frame, you just drill through that one side. The nuts and washers are fished up inside the frame through an existing slot in the frame under that area. So it is not through-bolted, the bolt just runs through one side of the frame. Through-bolting through both sides of the frame is not a good idea or a good way to do it.

And don't worry about pulling from just one hook, the frame is more than up to it. Don't overthink this.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

Pulling with a triangular set up will work perfectly as long as you're pulling straight. Pulling at an angle will change what's happening to each side. I don't think either makes a real difference.

I just put the big honking original hook on my TJ after taking the hitch receiver back off because it just hangs down and has dragged on quite a few different things while off road. I got that hook and the extra bolt/nut that originally held it on from https://daveysjeeps.com/parts/. So far it's been doing fine at pulling my son's YJ out a couple different times and him pulling me out once, so far.

 

[Gasman]

Yes you definitely need rear extraction points too. That photo is my recommendation and you only need to drill one hole, the other hole is already there. And don't worry about drilling that hole, the frame won't notice it. And do NOT drill all the way through the frame, you just drill through that one side. The nuts and washers are fished up inside the frame through an existing slot in the frame under that area. So it is not through-bolted, the bolt just runs through one side of the frame. Through-bolting through both sides of the frame is not a good idea or a good way to do it.

And don't worry about pulling from just one hook, the frame is more than up to it. Don't overthink this.

X2 to this. Thanks again Jerry for another good tip. I just did the same thing yesterday and it is easy to do. Connect the hook using the one existing hole, mark one of the other holes for the second bolt and go to town with a 1/2' drill bit. $14 on amazon and the grade 8 bolts, lock washers and lock nuts are included.

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Click image to open expanded view


Rugged Ridge 11236.02 Black Universal Front Tow Hook

 

[TJim]

Thanks everyone for their answer.

Yes you definitely need rear extraction points too. That photo is my recommendation and you only need to drill one hole, the other hole is already there. And don't worry about drilling that hole, the frame won't notice it. And do NOT drill all the way through the frame, you just drill through that one side. The nuts and washers are fished up inside the frame through an existing slot in the frame under that area. So it is not through-bolted, the bolt just runs through one side of the frame. Through-bolting through both sides of the frame is not a good idea or a good way to do it.

And don't worry about pulling from just one hook, the frame is more than up to it. Don't overthink this.

I might choose this option to install two tow hooks, one in each side. Thanks for the tip about NOT drilling all the way. I wasn't going to, but a reminder is always useful!

 

[TJim]

ONE more question! haha

How do you secure the strap in the hook?

My front hooks has a small metal securing the strap. My rear one does not. Maybe with a string/cord/rope? or is there a different method?

 

[Goatman]

Only try your 'triangle' idea in dead perfect straight pull, but are you aware of that big length of pipe welded between the frame rails up front? That will equalize the stress better than the triangle will. So just go with the easiest side. In the back I would suggest a better bumper. There are many built to look similar to stock. And they should have built in extraction points that are made to be stronger than that hook hanging down. And safer too. And don't have a hook hanging down.

 

[TJim]

Only try your 'triangle' idea in dead perfect straight pull, but are you aware of that big length of pipe welded between the frame rails up front? That will equalize the stress better than the triangle will. So just go with the easiest side. In the back I would suggest a better bumper. There are many built to look similar to stock. And they should have built in extraction points that are made to be stronger than that hook hanging down. And safer too. And don't have a hook hanging down.

So, just to make sure that I understood completely what you said!

You are saying that if I pull from only one front tow hook the stress will be equalised?

I would consider a light aftermarket bumper only for the rear, so I can have a hitch receiver as well. I just don't want to put heavy stuff on my TJ because it is a 2.4L. This would be a great solution in order to be as light as possible. I dont want to have both a bumper and a hitch receiver.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I would consider a light aftermarket bumper only for the rear, so I can have a hitch receiver as well. I just don't want to put heavy stuff on my TJ because it is a 2.4L. This would be a great solution in order to be as light as possible. I dont want to have both a bumper and a hitch receiver.

The bumper isn't what tow hooks are bolted to, the bolts pass through the bumper and into the frame below which is what provides the support for the hook. The front bumper doesn't even need to be there to mount a front winch or tow hooks which are actually bolted to the frame. The bumper could be made of cardboard and neither a winch nor tow hooks would notice.

 

[TJim]

The bumper isn't what tow hooks are bolted to, the bolts pass through the bumper and into the frame below which is what provides the support for the hook. The front bumper doesn't even need to be there to mount a front winch or tow hooks which are actually bolted to the frame. The bumper could be made of cardboard and neither a winch nor tow hooks would notice.

yes! I know!

My point was that I would like to maybe install an aftermarket rear bumper (like the picture), in order to have a hitch receiver, without adding a hitch receiver + stock rear bumper, so I would be as light as possible.

I was thinking something like:
1) Stock bumper (20 pounds) + Hitch Receiver ( 25-30 pounds) = 45-50 pounds
2) Aftermarket bumper (like pic) = 30 pounds

So, I would be 20 pounds lighter this way, which is quite important for my little engine. (Weights are just rough estimates, no precision at all)

Sorry, my thinking escaped the tow hooks discussion! I am just trying to figure things out to be as off road capable, but not to sacrifice much performance for two reasons. Small engine + Daily Driver.

Last question: Is this type of hitch receiver a recovery point, or is it only capable for towing?

 

[Goatman]

It looked like you have recovery points on that bumper. I would recommend only using them to pull from. The receiver hitch is only meant to pull easy rolling trailers, not a 2 ton plus Jeep. Be sure to also use brackets made to tie in the rear bumper to the frame sides. IIRC poison Spider make a good pair (I have them).

 

[TJim]

It looked like you have recovery points on that bumper. I would recommend only using them to pull from. The receiver hitch is only meant to pull easy rolling trailers, not a 2 ton plus Jeep. Be sure to also use brackets made to tie in the rear bumper to the frame sides. IIRC poison Spider make a good pair (I have them).

1) I have 2 front tow hooks, to be recovered. (So, I am all set for the front side, until I have the budget to install a winch)

2) Receiver hitch is not a safe/capable recovery point, which there is no point to install a new bumper. (I am not towing anything at the moment)

3) I am just going to install 1-2 rear tow hooks on the frame!

Thanks for the info.

 

[Goatman]

 

[RMETeeJay]

I also need rear hooks, so I went to look at my frame. I can see the 2 holes, but no way to access the inside of the frame. I do have a trailer hitch. Do I need to remove it to expose the access holes?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I also need rear hooks, so I went to look at my frame. I can see the 2 holes, but no way to access the inside of the frame.

Look underneath, there's a slot opening there you can fish the washers and nuts up into. It's a little tricky but if I can do it pretty much anyone can. A combination box/open-end wrench fits up inside to hold the nuts while you tighten the bolts.

 

[Gasman]

bottom bolt of the hook is where the hitch was originally bolted to the frame. You'll notice the 2nd original hitch bolt at the top right...don't mess with that one. If your hitch is similar use the lower hole for one of your bolts. Top bolt will need to be drilled. Drill thru the hitch metal and the frame. You'll essentially be sandwiching the side metal of the hitch between the hook and the frame.No lie, It's a PITA to fish the nuts thru the access slot below the hole. I used a small piece of putty squished to the top of my finger to hold the nut just enough to catch the threads of the bolt. I got lucky tightening from the outside since the combo of lock washer and lock nut caught enough so that I was able to torque the bolt without needing to use a box wrench on the inside.

 

[RMETeeJay]

My hitch is bolted under the frame. Is it covering the opening?

 

[dla]

If you have and are keeping the receiver hitch you don’t need to add recovery hooks.

 

[gbirk]

If you have and are keeping the receiver hitch you don’t need to add recovery hooks.

View attachment 164732

If this is OK, is there any reason for one of these?