There is zero difference with regard to the rotor hat that gets clamped against the unit bearing flange whether the rotor is smooth face, drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted and that includes even the kangaroo paws some companies cut into the face. A hat is a hat.
So having drilled rotors worked for you then? I honestly wanted to subtract some weight, even if it is just by a little. But I also wanna make sure that if I do add them, that it's safe at the same time.I can't confirm anything about adding them with adapters. I can confirm that I added drilled/slotted rotors and they did f*%k all for braking or cooling in regard to my use. They look cool, so there's that. Gets all the chicks. You know...the ones that look between the holes of my rims and can actually see them. That group usually consists of dudes, though. Like two or three in the past few years. I mean, I'm married, to a woman, so if I was single they had better have watched out!
Ahh, ok. Not the exact answer I hoped for but it's always better know the naked truth from a reviewer. Thanks brotha
We've tested them a fair bit with our pads. Overall high energy brake events are in fact showing reduced stopping distances. If the event is normal stopping or low energy, the distance increases likely due to the loss in surface area from the surface treatment. Normal stopping is worse, panic stops are better.
If you want to cut weight, just buy cheap rotors. They don't have the center split castings and the rotor faces are typically thinner to cut cost.
Same man... Don't even get me started on hills lol I have yet to fix a pretty big leak in my manifolds that's causing it to loose power. Luckily my new manifolds come in this Wednesday!
