im saying like I’ve heard since it died in gear there’s something I have to do something to get it to start since there’s a way to make it so that the Jeep does not think it’s trying to start in gear.
Engine shut off when at red light the other day
- Thread starter Tycarver
- Start date
im saying like I’ve heard since it died in gear there’s something I have to do something to get it to start since there’s a way to make it so that the Jeep does not think it’s trying to start in gear.
HIghly doubtful the Idle Air Controller is the problem. The engine would start; just idle very low or slightly elevated.
The sensor inside the distributor is the Cam Position Sensor; the Crank Position sensor is attached to the transmission bell housing at 10-11 o'clock position.
IF you are not getting any spark or the fuel pump isn't running; then check the Automatic Shutdown Relay in the PCM.
The ASD relay removes the 5V to the Crank and Cam Position sensors along with removing power to the Fuel Pump Relay. IF you are good with a multi meter you can test the ASD relay coil windings by measuring the resistance which should be approximately 70-72 ohms.
As a test... IF you have A/C and know that it works; you can swap the A/C relay cube for the ASD relay and see if the engine starts. This will confirm that the ASD relay IS or IS NOT the problem.
The sensor inside the distributor is the Cam Position Sensor; the Crank Position sensor is attached to the transmission bell housing at 10-11 o'clock position.
IF you are not getting any spark or the fuel pump isn't running; then check the Automatic Shutdown Relay in the PCM.
The ASD relay removes the 5V to the Crank and Cam Position sensors along with removing power to the Fuel Pump Relay. IF you are good with a multi meter you can test the ASD relay coil windings by measuring the resistance which should be approximately 70-72 ohms.
As a test... IF you have A/C and know that it works; you can swap the A/C relay cube for the ASD relay and see if the engine starts. This will confirm that the ASD relay IS or IS NOT the problem.
just changed the whole distributor. Also the crank shaft position sensor. I changed the relay still no luck. You said check it in the pcm is there another in the actual pcm?( I’m terrible with a multi meter I’m a test light kinda guy)
You have the Power Control Module (PCM) in the engine compartment and the Engine Control Module (ECM).
The only other fuse and relay block is behind the glove compartment.
The only other fuse and relay block is behind the glove compartment.
I was thinking ecm I think my bad pcm holds all the fuses and stuff in the engine bay correct?
I just unplugged the throttle position sensor and was able to get 3 engine codes p0123 and p0124 those I know are because I unplugged the TPS. But I also got p0351 and that is about the ecu I cleared the codes just to see if they would come back up and the p0351 is not showing back up guess I need to test the ECU and find out if that’s an issue.
IF you haven't checked the 32 pin connectors for the ECM; you should disconnect and reconnect the connectors several times to clean the connector pins to see if there is a problem in one of the connectors.
Check the PCM and the fuse block behind the glove compartment for blown fuses....
I still recommend that you or someone back probe the CKPS to verify there is 5.0VDC on the orange wire (IIRC).
I still recommend that you or someone back probe the CKPS to verify there is 5.0VDC on the orange wire (IIRC).
Just check them both no fuzes blown or anything I’ll check the cranckshaft position sensor now at the connector.
When I ordered the crank shaft position sensor the mopar was not in stock. I ordered a offbrand with decent reviews. Should I order the mopar one now? And would the crankshaft postition sensor stop me from getting spark at my ignition coil? The ignition coil has ground but no positive charge on the harness. ( thanks for all your help)
Check the grounds on the passenger side towards the rear of the block to ensure the connection is clean and then check the ground wire near the coil attached to the block.
I always try to use the Mopar OEM CKPS since there are too many problems encountered using the knock offs.
There should be 12V to the coil when cranking the engine..
IF there is no positive to the coil; then that is your problem and you need to find out why.
Factory Service Manual
In Section 8W there are wiring schematics to help troubleshoot why there is no positive to the coil.
I always try to use the Mopar OEM CKPS since there are too many problems encountered using the knock offs.
There should be 12V to the coil when cranking the engine..
IF there is no positive to the coil; then that is your problem and you need to find out why.
Factory Service Manual
In Section 8W there are wiring schematics to help troubleshoot why there is no positive to the coil.
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YES... those are the two...
IF you were really confident with electrical you could remove the positive to the coil and jump a wire from the battery positive to the positive terminal on the coil and crank the engine to see if it starts.
Then you would need to find out why there is no voltage to the positive.
Need to look at the FSM Section 8W to see what else would stop the positive to the coil.
IF you were really confident with electrical you could remove the positive to the coil and jump a wire from the battery positive to the positive terminal on the coil and crank the engine to see if it starts.
Then you would need to find out why there is no voltage to the positive.
Need to look at the FSM Section 8W to see what else would stop the positive to the coil.
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