Help with rear sway bar link bushings

[cpwolf]

Spent the day working on Jeeps. TJ ride is terrible, lots to do. 1st that came in was Energy rear track bar bushings, long effort to clear the old ones, but they are on.

the Rear sway bar Links is where I’m jammed up.
I replaced the bushings on one, but the links don’t come with bolt sleeves, and the old sleeves there is no way they are going in.
Anyone know if these are mean to go no sleeve? I tried to torque to 40 ft/LBs like the specs specifically say, but that smashes them too much.
Should have just purchased new links.

 

[TJ4Jim]

Spent the day working on Jeeps. TJ ride is terrible, lots to do. 1st that came in was Energy rear track bar bushings, long effort to clear the old ones, but they are on.

the Rear sway bar Links is where I’m jammed up.
I replaced the bushings on one, but the links don’t come with bolt sleeves, and the old sleeves there is no way they are going in.
Anyone know if these are mean to go no sleeve? I tried to torque to 40 ft/LBs like the specs specifically say, but that smashes them too much.
Should have just purchased new links.

Stores like Ace, Lowes and HD usually have steel sleeves in the specialty hardware drawers, give them a look.

 

[Goatman]

Is the bolt snug in the new bushings? Poly sometimes dosen't use an inner sleeve. If its rubber then it normally does.

 

[cpwolf]

Is the bolt snug in the new bushings? Poly sometimes dosen't use an inner sleeve. If its rubber then it normally does.

I think more than snug. Was trying to get to 40 ft/LBs like spec says in manual, but I just don’t think it will get there without destroying the bushing.

I read great things in energy suspension bushings, but their directions are not great.
I’m thinking these don’t need a sleeve, any sleeve would take most of the space, and the bolt would be tiny IMO.

 

[Blondie70]

Call the company and they will tell you....or the seller ???

 

[cpwolf]

Call the company and they will tell you....or the seller ???

Agree, but they have been closed, not sure if they were closed Fri/Mon because of the 4th it because this Covid stuff. They are in Cali, and sounds like a lot is shut down.
I found someone online talking in detail, and they stated that they were made to have no bolt, and you snug to where they look bunched in but not crazy deformed. I put blue loctite either way.

 

[1904-06LJR]

The 40 ft/lbs you speak of is when the OEM metal sleeve meets the metal of the sway bar. That creates metal to metal contact, therefore allowing the 40 ft/lbs without mashing the rubber. Energy Susp does not use metal sleeves in their sway bar bushing kits. You would be correct to tighten the bolts until they begin to "mash" and give an extra 1/4 turn. Be sure to use red lock tite on a standard bolt/nut. The better solution would be to purchase grade 5 or grade 8 bolts that are slightly longer and use a nylon locking nut. For comparison, Prothane uses a sleeve style sway bar busing kit and you can see the poly bushing holes are larger to allow for the sleeve. You can both of these products via Amazon. Good luck with your install, you should immediately notice a difference!

Oh and put a little grease in there too. Poly likes to squeak!

 

[cpwolf]

The 40 ft/lbs you speak of is when the OEM metal sleeve meets the metal of the sway bar. That creates metal to metal contact, therefore allowing the 40 ft/lbs without mashing the rubber. Energy Susp does not use metal sleeves in their sway bar bushing kits. You would be correct to tighten the bolts until they begin to "mash" and give an extra 1/4 turn. Be sure to use red lock tite on a standard bolt/nut. The better solution would be to purchase grade 5 or grade 8 bolts that are slightly longer and use a nylon locking nut. For comparison, Prothane uses a sleeve style sway bar busing kit and you can see the poly bushing holes are larger to allow for the sleeve. You can both of these products via Amazon. Good luck with your install, you should immediately notice a difference!

Oh and put a little grease in there too. Poly likes to squeak!

Thanks, much appreciated. I used blue loctite. I am very shy with red, I've had to help too many friends bore out broken bolts on firearms with red loctite. I know it's different with Grade 8 bolts with a hex head....but I think I'll go blue and check tight on my regular grease maintenance.