Shocks: Outboard the front?

[suicideking]

I picked up a set of lightly used shocks that are for outboarding the front and rear. Both sets have been custom tuned for an LJ. I do want to outboard the rear, but haven't decided if I should get the front done too.

Labor for the front is around $1200, but I already have the shocks. Or I could buy shocks that will work with the OEM shock mounts and maybe save a little. I would get tunable shocks.

Picture of what I have attached (I have two of each)

 

[Chris]

Technically speaking, the front shocks already are "outboard".

You're just talking about extending the mounts in the front so you can fit a longer travel shock.

But what we really need to know is what size tire you have, what size life you have, and what travel those shocks are.

In other words, you left out crucial information.

 

[JDS123]

Considering your rig, I'd just do both. It just seems to be a natural upgrade to go along with everything else that is on it. A lot of unsprung weight to slow down in the front so more uptravel = more better. The difference in price is what, $700 or $800?

 

[jjvw]

What length? 11s up front are relatively easy. 12s are more difficult and fussy.

If the valving is good, then getting them fitted up front is worthwhile

 

[suicideking]

Technically speaking, the front shocks already are "outboard".

You're just talking about extending the mounts in the front so you can fit a longer travel shock.

But what we really need to know is what size tire you have, what size life you have, and what travel those shocks are.

In other words, you left out crucial information.

My profile is updated:

4" springs, Savvy mid arm, 37's.

 

[suicideking]

Considering your rig, I'd just do both. It just seems to be a natural upgrade to go along with everything else that is on it. A lot of unsprung weight to slow down in the front so more uptravel = more better. The difference in price is what, $700 or $800?

Your figures sound about right.

If it's worth the extra money, I'll do it. Otherwise, I'll save the money for something else.

 

[Chris]

My profile is updated:

4" springs, Savvy mid arm, 37's.

In that case, yes, I would do the fronts and rears.

A 12" should be possible in the rear and an 11" in the front.

Though with 37s you'd probably want a highline conversion (if you don't already have one), at which point you may ba able to get an even longer travel shock.

 

[suicideking]

In that case, yes, I would do the fronts and rears.

A 12" should be possible in the rear and an 11" in the front.

Though with 37s you'd probably want a highline conversion (if you don't already have one), at which point you may ba able to get an even longer travel shock.

I have genright hi lines in the front. Rear is just standard 4" genright flares.

 

[jjvw]

I have genright hi lines in the front. Rear is just standard 4" genright flares.

Be prepared to trim the rear wheel opening.

 

[mrblaine]

Be prepared to trim the rear wheel opening.

Again

 

[Steel City 06]

Out of curiosity, does a mid-arm generally allow for more total travel than a short arm? Or are other components more limiting than suspension geometry?

 

[suicideking]

Be prepared to trim the rear wheel opening.

Again is right. Already been trimmed once, I don't mind if it needs to be trimmed again.

 

[jjvw]

Out of curiosity, does a mid-arm generally allow for more total travel than a short arm? Or are other components more limiting than suspension geometry?

In and of itself, i recall the mid arm adding about 3" more travel in the arms. Other things will get in the way before that, including getting a proper fit of the longer shocks. 11s front and 12s rear is still a wise goal regardless of the arms.

 

[Alex01]

With 37's would the front axle need to be pushed forward? With my 35's I'm limited due to the tire hitting near the battery tray and impeding on the ability to turn full lock to lock. I'd imagine with 37's the issue would be exaggerated unless the axle was pushed forward.

 

[suicideking]

Thanks for the replies, I'm going to get the front done too.

 

[jjvw]

With 37's would the front axle need to be pushed forward? With my 35's I'm limited due to the tire hitting near the battery tray and impeding on the ability to turn full lock to lock. I'd imagine with 37's the issue would be exaggerated unless the axle was pushed forward.

Depends on the fenders and how far back they push the rear wall

 

[mattcogdell]

What travel are your fronts? I’m assuming your using Currie’s bump stops if you have a mid arm. I just finished my front with 12s.

Some notes to pay attention to. Some of these may not apply to 11s.
1.) Caliper to lower shock mount/ shock clearance at articulation and full bump.
2.) Brake line length at droop and articulation while turning the steering wheel.
3.) Upper 3 link arm at articulation and full bump
4.) Trac bar to diff clearance at articulation and full bump.

The rear outboard is a walk in the park compared to the front. Neither is difficult just a lot to pay attention to.

 

[mattcogdell]

Looking back at your photo answers my question on what travel the fronts are.