Lift and Skid Plate Help (New Guy)

[Willhugh]

Howdy - need some advice on skids and a lift for my TJ. Currently sitting on 31 inch k02s with stock suspension, would like to lift it two inches in total and get a high clearance skid. The two options I'm currently considering:

1 - H&R 1 inch springs, Savvy 1 inch body lift and MML, and a Savvy or UCF high clearance belly skid.

2 - Two inch lift springs, no body lift, and a mid-clearance skid.

I think at the end of the day I would end up with roughly the same clearance gain with either setup. Wondering whether there's a benefit to going one way or the other that I haven't considered (drive line angles, clearance, etc.)? Is there a preference on skid plate manufacturers? I know I'll have to do a SYE, and possibly control arms to make this work. It's a 97 TJ 4.0 if that makes any difference. I've read through quite a few threads on tummy tucks, just trying to figure out which option makes the most sense. Appreciate any insight you can share.

Will

 

[RubiconRic]

What's the reason for keeping it 2" or under, and what type of offroading will you be doing? My $0.02 would be if you're going to do a skid to do it right/complete the first time (meaning high clearance), and do 2" (or 2.5") suspension lift plus BL/MML.

 

[hear]

I have a 97, was on a worn 2.5" spring lift with the slip yoke & factory arms and it drove fine. But that setup with a tummy tuck is effectively another 1"+ lift as far as the rear end is concerned, and my very recent experience there is that you should expect an SYE, DC driveshaft, and adjustable upper arms. Somebody will chime in and say you can't do adjustable uppers w/o adjustable lowers to correct the wheelbase....best I can say there is YMMV. My lift came with new lower arms, and drives great now. But it was CRAP with the stock arms.

Can't speak to the BL & MML topics.

 

[taylormade73]

If you do one of your tuck options, it will have to be the UCF, as Savvy doesn't make it for your year anymore.

 

[Irun]

Just keep in mind the higher you go up, the more will change. An extreme TT typically means exhaust modifications are needed, pinion angle has to change, shocks may hit the lower rear spring perch as a result of the pinion rotation, and more.

 

[Willhugh]

What's the reason for keeping it 2" or under, and what type of offroading will you be doing? My $0.02 would be if you're going to do a skid to do it right/complete the first time (meaning high clearance), and do 2" (or 2.5") suspension lift plus BL/MML.

Trying to do the build right, which for me means doing it in stages. I'm not ready to dive into the axles, and a high % of my driving is on road, so sticking with 31s makes sense. I figure if I buy the right parts along the way (SYE and control arms), eventually all it'll take to go up in tire size is a new set of springs.

I think you're probably right though, go higher clearance skid, and that way if I do go with a taller suspension lift in the future I will have maximized my clearance.

 

[Willhugh]

Just keep in mind the higher you go up, the more will change. An extreme TT typically means exhaust modifications are needed, pinion angle has to change, shocks may hit the lower rear spring perch as a result of the pinion rotation, and more.

I've been following your build thread - going for the same thing with my jeep, so I'll have to look back and see what you did for a skid setup.

 

[Willhugh]

If you do one of your tuck options, it will have to be the UCF, as Savvy doesn't make it for your year anymore.

This actually brings up a good question. Is the difference in years related to which transfer case the jeep has, or positioning of mounting holes in the frame? My jeep is a 97, but my father and I swapped a new frame onto it a couple of summers ago, and it's a frame from a newer TJ.

 

[Irun]

The 231 transfer case stayed basically the same across the years. The only major difference there was the addition of the 241 in 2003. As for the frames, the mounting holes for the skids changed in 2003. As did the mounting holes of the steering box. For the skid, this is an easy problem to address. I had one in the past that I drilled for both patterns. This is really easy if you get an aluminum skid, not as easy with steel (but still doable). The obvious and important thing is to make sure the transmission mounting holes line up.

If your Father swapped frames to a later model (2003-UP), it would be good to know how he modified the skid to work with the transmission mount.

 

[RHanna]

I think you are recommended to do the body lift if you do the UCF high clearance skid.

 

[taylormade73]

This actually brings up a good question. Is the difference in years related to which transfer case the jeep has, or positioning of mounting holes in the frame? My jeep is a 97, but my father and I swapped a new frame onto it a couple of summers ago, and it's a frame from a newer TJ.

It is the mounting holes for the skid and transmission.

 

[Willhugh]

The 231 transfer case stayed basically the same across the years. The only major difference there was the addition of the 241 in 2003. As for the frames, the mounting holes for the skids changed in 2003. As did the mounting holes of the steering box. For the skid, this is an easy problem to address. I had one in the past that I drilled for both patterns. This is really easy if you get an aluminum skid, not as easy with steel (but still doable). The obvious and important thing is to make sure the transmission mounting holes line up.

If your Father swapped frames to a later model (2003-UP), it would be good to know how he modified the skid to work with the transmission mount.

The steering box bracket was cut off and swapped, and new holes were drilled in the frame for the skid. As it stands, sounds like I have holes drilled for either vintage of skid plate.