Modifications and advice for extreme cold

Block heaters as far as I’m aware came standard on Canadian models, at least on the 3 I have had my hands on they all had block heaters. Not sure if they are still producing them, or maybe you can find a used one. Just thought I would throw that out there
 
Thanks for the input. So far looking at:

Heaters
Block heater
Oil pan heater
Tranny heater (is this needed or recommended with a manual?)
Any videos yall know of on how to tie heaters together to one extension cord?


Insulation
I have some mylar blankets I may use in the doors and footwells.
Insulate heater core lines.
Hotheads liner. I have a Bulldawg hardtop, so I plan to make some calls and see how much modification will be needed to fit.

Misc
Fluid changes throughout once GA summer is over
Replace metal shift knob with less dense material
Better headlights (heated LED possibly)
Sourced some stock rims for winter tires. Ive heard that tires outside the wheel wells are illegal in AK. I would assume that chucking snow and ice in all directions isn’t well received.

I had a random thought to look into shrink fitting some thick plastic to the rear side windows. I used to do this to the house windows in Wisconsin to save on heating costs by creating an insulating layer of air.
Manual does not need a heater if you use the right fluid. You do not tie the heater cords together, you want to install a metal electrical plug in box that they can plug into and then a single cord comes out of the box to plug in. Something that looks like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJBE0E/?tag=wranglerorg-20 but constructed out of commercial grade electrical materials.

Do not worry about insulating the heater lines total waste of time.

Alaska tire coverage is no exposed tread outside of body and mud flaps that have to be no more than 14 inches from the ground.
 
Mopar makes a oem block heater for the Canadian models. I got one for mine pretty cheap. I suggest the intimidator batteries I think they are made by deka they are an AGM battery been using at work for about 10 years now since optima went to shit. Never had an issue with them.
 
I'll forewarn you as I travel to AK often for work...your rig will never warm up enough to defrost windows but luckily nearly all retail facilities have plug in posts. The suggestions so far are great because you need to stay warm and because of the extreme cold the heater can't keep up. I'd also recommend a radiator cover which goes against nearly everything all of us know and understand but the locals in AK run them for a reason.

Also if you don't want to downsize tires or mess around with a spare set I tried Grip Studs last winter and these work awesome. You can also take them back out pretty easily so you can keep your same tires for the summer months. There are other brands as well and Amazon offers them but these guys tell you which studs are best for which vehicle so I went with them. I even ran them on my track loader for plowing this winter and my driveway is about 3/4 mile long and steep with ice...it worked flawlessly.

https://www.gripstuds.com/1000_Tire_Stud.php
I just had summer and winter tires, 10 minutes to change.
I had a Honeywell cab heater inside my car, it quit at -45, the fan bearings just would not turn. Battery heater, block heater, oil pan heater and if an auto, a heater on the transmission pan. Oh and don’t expect your doors to shut right at -50 or colder. Engine breathers will also freeze up with condensation, then things like valve cover gaskets and timing chain covers gaskets blow out. Also carry an extra key in your wallet. Locking your keys in at -40 can be life threatening. My dissertation was on cold weather error management. So I am somewhat of an expert on the topic. Tim
 
I just had summer and winter tires, 10 minutes to change.
I had a Honeywell cab heater inside my car, it quit at -45, the fan bearings just would not turn. Battery heater, block heater, oil pan heater and if an auto, a heater on the transmission pan. Oh and don’t expect your doors to shut right at -50 or colder. Engine breathers will also freeze up with condensation, then things like valve cover gaskets and timing chain covers gaskets blow out. Also carry an extra key in your wallet. Locking your keys in at -40 can be life threatening. My dissertation was on cold weather error management. So I am somewhat of an expert on the topic. Tim
Every winter when I’m in Fairbanks I wonder why in the hell people live there...then summer comes and you forget all about it. But yeah, anyone moving there the -40 or colder is a real thing and not to be messed with.
 
Webasto makes a cabin heater-friend of mine in Germany has one in his Land Rover for cold weather camping and he swears it's his favorite mod.
 
Webasto makes a cabin heater-friend of mine in Germany has one in his Land Rover for cold weather camping and he swears it's his favorite mod.
Yeah, Germany is not even in this same league of cold...the fan bearings in 5 different brands of heaters failed to turn when my timer clicked on at 3am because if you leave your car plugged in at -40 or colder. At those temps things just do not work. At -50 the ravens don’t fly, at -60 every living creature just has a hard time moving. The only warm blooded animal is the wild buffaloes down near delta that thrive in the cold. I think they have 1 foot of fur... It will set you back $1200.00 on your light bill in the winter months in 2007 dollars. I was running 3kw of heat to get a 6” clear spot on my windshield. It would have been cheaper to build a garage...30 minute warm up in the morning still froze my ass off driving to post.
 
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Really? No one in Fairbanks seems to know that. I got 4 rock chips in windshield this winter.
That's because rocks kick up from where the rubber literally meets the road. Mudflaps may reduce reduce some water spray but do nothing for rocks but legislators don't know that. Cops don't care because they are paid to write tickets.
 
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One thing you could consider is a hand throttle. Further south I use it all the time to bump up the idle to about 1500-2000 RPM to rapidly warm up the engine and defrost the windows. Otherwise it takes 3x as long to warm up and defrost.
 
Hi, Scout425! Welcome to Fairbanks!

I’ve lived in Fairbanks almost 23 years, and 29 years in Alaska. I bought my first Jeep last fall, so my Jeep experience is only this past winter. All my cars have been standard transmission, while my wife prefers her Suburbans with auto everything.

1. Block heater- don’t get aftermarket. Mopar only. My factory installed block heater works great. Wait until you get here to find a 3-1 plug. Local stores sell arctic grade extensions that won’t be brittle and break in the cold.
2. Oil pan pad heater - Full synth 5-30 in winter was fine without a pad heater this past winter for me. Even if you didn’t use full synthetic in your Jeep, switch to it. You can’t always plug in when extremely cold. A small pad heater is a good idea, though (I have one in a box with plans to install it).
3. Transmission heater- Never have done this on any of our cars, including the Burb with notorious 4L60e. I let my Jeep warm up for 5 minutes before going anywhere.
4. Battery- I‘ve always used standard lead-acid batteries. They last about 5 years. A low output pad heater under the battery and a simple battery blanket is good and won’t cook your battery. Some people prefer a trickle charger. All that’s needed is one of these methods to keep the battery from freezing, which tends to happen to older batteries or discharged batteries.
5. Auto Start - There is an excellent local shop that specializes in auto-starts, Auto Trim Design. I’ve never had one on my manual tranny. It can be done, though. However, you will need to engage the e-brake and be in Neutral. The e-brake will freeze if there is any water contamination in the e-brake system. I never engage the e-brake in extreme cold after operating the vehicle and then letting it sit. So, I’m not sure if an auto start is worth it.
6. All synth fluids - Great plan for the to-do list. I didn’t change my fluids this winter, so I let my TJ warm up for 5 minutes. My plan is to replace fluids this summer, since my TJ hit 100K.
7. Tires - I bought a set of Blizzaks this winter, which are fantastic! (Thank you, Costco for having 235/75 R15 in stock). Blizzaks are the most popular tire in Fairbanks over every other tire, summer or winter. They are the perfect combination for snow, ice and extreme cold. After it snows, don’t expect a plow truck to clear the roads immediately and don’t expect to stay home. The roads are rarely salted, so the ice on the road stays on the road. There is a local shop that has new rims and a variety of OE Jeep rims in steel and alloy. Prices are about $50-75 each. If you can find good rims for less, save yourself a hefty shipping fee and buy before you arrive. I just bought BFG AT-KO2 for summer as well as the Spring-Fall seasons with occasional snow, such as today.
8. I put some Gorilla Tape on my grill inserts and installed them. It worked so well, I had to cut slits in the tape to increase air flow. I‘m not sure if I prefer the look of the OE grill inserts or cardboard on my Jeep, though. At least the cardboard is generally acceptable on a grill front. Not so sure about the grill inserts.
9. Heat - I have the 2.5L, which gets to operating temp quickly and gave me heat all winter. I have an insulated hardtop from Patriot Fastbacks. I was warm all winter and took my gloves off after about 10 minutes of driving. My vinyl seats were ok. I’m researching seat covers with seat heat As an option. Seat heat is not on my needs list, though. You will want to seal up and insulate your pan. That’s on my summer To do list, since my feet had a cold breeze all winter.
10. Here is the most important way to prepare your Jeep for living in Fairbanks. Live in the hills;-) It’s 10-20 (or more) degrees warmer in the hills due to temperature inversions. It will be -45 in North Pole, -40 in Fairbanks, -30 at my house and only -20 at a friend’s house higher on the hill. More common is temps to run -10 in town and above zero at my house. (BTW- all temps in Fahrenheit:) Of course, you will need to winterize your Jeep just the same but wear and tear from extreme temps will be much less.
11. I bought an outdoor smart plug that is programmable (Feit). I programmed it to switch on at 0400 if the temp is less than zero. I saved a lot on the power bill.

Well, that was longer than I expected. I hope I covered most of it. I’m happy to help when you get here, too!
 
One thing you could consider is a hand throttle. Further south I use it all the time to bump up the idle to about 1500-2000 RPM to rapidly warm up the engine and defrost the windows. Otherwise it takes 3x as long to warm up and defrost.
The air is extremely dry in the winter. Any bit of heat will defrost the windows if they are frosted at all. I only have issues when a dusting of snow ends up blowing through my windshield “defroster” from the cowl vent.
 
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That's because rocks kick up from where the rubber literally meets the road. Mudflaps may reduce reduce some water spray but do nothing for rocks but legislators don't know that. Cops don't care because they are paid to write tickets.
Maybe I should stop tailgating behind those slow-moving pickup trucks;-) The troopers here are too busy looking for outstanding warrants and DUIs to write tickets for the rest of us.
 
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Hi, Scout425! Welcome to Fairbanks!

I’ve lived in Fairbanks almost 23 years, and 29 years in Alaska. I bought my first Jeep last fall, so my Jeep experience is only this past winter. All my cars have been standard transmission, while my wife prefers her Suburbans with auto everything.

1. Block heater- don’t get aftermarket. Mopar only. My factory installed block heater works great. Wait until you get here to find a 3-1 plug. Local stores sell arctic grade extensions that won’t be brittle and break in the cold.
2. Oil pan pad heater - Full synth 5-30 in winter was fine without a pad heater this past winter for me. Even if you didn’t use full synthetic in your Jeep, switch to it. You can’t always plug in when extremely cold. A small pad heater is a good idea, though (I have one in a box with plans to install it).
3. Transmission heater- Never have done this on any of our cars, including the Burb with notorious 4L60e. I let my Jeep warm up for 5 minutes before going anywhere.
4. Battery- I‘ve always used standard lead-acid batteries. They last about 5 years. A low output pad heater under the battery and a simple battery blanket is good and won’t cook your battery. Some people prefer a trickle charger. All that’s needed is one of these methods to keep the battery from freezing, which tends to happen to older batteries or discharged batteries.
5. Auto Start - There is an excellent local shop that specializes in auto-starts, Auto Trim Design. I’ve never had one on my manual tranny. It can be done, though. However, you will need to engage the e-brake and be in Neutral. The e-brake will freeze if there is any water contamination in the e-brake system. I never engage the e-brake in extreme cold after operating the vehicle and then letting it sit. So, I’m not sure if an auto start is worth it.
6. All synth fluids - Great plan for the to-do list. I didn’t change my fluids this winter, so I let my TJ warm up for 5 minutes. My plan is to replace fluids this summer, since my TJ hit 100K.
7. Tires - I bought a set of Blizzaks this winter, which are fantastic! (Thank you, Costco for having 235/75 R15 in stock). Blizzaks are the most popular tire in Fairbanks over every other tire, summer or winter. They are the perfect combination for snow, ice and extreme cold. After it snows, don’t expect a plow truck to clear the roads immediately and don’t expect to stay home. The roads are rarely salted, so the ice on the road stays on the road. There is a local shop that has new rims and a variety of OE Jeep rims in steel and alloy. Prices are about $50-75 each. If you can find good rims for less, save yourself a hefty shipping fee and buy before you arrive. I just bought BFG AT-KO2 for summer as well as the Spring-Fall seasons with occasional snow, such as today.
8. I put some Gorilla Tape on my grill inserts and installed them. It worked so well, I had to cut slits in the tape to increase air flow. I‘m not sure if I prefer the look of the OE grill inserts or cardboard on my Jeep, though. At least the cardboard is generally acceptable on a grill front. Not so sure about the grill inserts.
9. Heat - I have the 2.5L, which gets to operating temp quickly and gave me heat all winter. I have an insulated hardtop from Patriot Fastbacks. I was warm all winter and took my gloves off after about 10 minutes of driving. My vinyl seats were ok. I’m researching seat covers with seat heat As an option. Seat heat is not on my needs list, though. You will want to seal up and insulate your pan. That’s on my summer To do list, since my feet had a cold breeze all winter.
10. Here is the most important way to prepare your Jeep for living in Fairbanks. Live in the hills;-) It’s 10-20 (or more) degrees warmer in the hills due to temperature inversions. It will be -45 in North Pole, -40 in Fairbanks, -30 at my house and only -20 at a friend’s house higher on the hill. More common is temps to run -10 in town and above zero at my house. (BTW- all temps in Fahrenheit:) Of course, you will need to winterize your Jeep just the same but wear and tear from extreme temps will be much less.
11. I bought an outdoor smart plug that is programmable (Feit). I programmed it to switch on at 0400 if the temp is less than zero. I saved a lot on the power bill.

Well, that was longer than I expected. I hope I covered most of it. I’m happy to help when you get here, too!
Geez, and I thought winters in southern Michigan were bad.
 
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One of the other things to look into is a cold weather cover for the grill on your Jeep. As Wtrask said his anti-freeze turned into slush. If the wind is blowing on your radiator all night it might only be -10 but with wind chill it can be colder.

I know this isn't a JEEP but it shows what a winter front looks like.

View attachment 247214


Some people just put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator.

Local company here, Alaska tent&tarp. Makes winter and summer covers. I run a summer cover for all the bugs and rocks, protects the radiator on my daily
 
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The hard plastic knob on the gear shift lever can get very cold and uncomfortable. I would leather wrap the knob and I would probably either wrap the shift lever itself or put a piece of rubber hose on it.
I just put a glove over it. 😆
I have a rock knob shifter. It’s stays cold.