TJ transmission bolt size

rich_benson

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Jul 6, 2021
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Charleston
Missing a 2000 v6 4.0 TJ tranny bolt and leaking fluid. Hoping someone knows the size bolt size I need (as this bolt is the only one that doesnt go all the way thru with a nut).

Hopefully the attached picture will explain it better. Need thread size and bolt size LxW.

Thanks.

jeep tranny1.webp
 
The bolt isn't the issue for the leak. It's the rear main seal. It's not a terribly hard repair if it's getting bad.

However if I remember tonight and no one chimes in I'll try to check the bolt size on my old engine.
 
is it the same thread pitch as the others? I would just stick something into the hole to get the depth and buy one just shy of that length. It's just the flex plate cover, it's not holding anything together or sealing anything up. If your leak is in that area, that cover is only hiding it. Although that looks like oil not atf, so I'm thinking RMS is your likely culprit.
 
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I guess I might add that it could be another leak and it's just settling in that area, but the RMS leaks all the time. I replaced the timing chain, oil pump and RMS all at the same time when I dropped the oil pan and replaced the oil pan gasket. Sometime you'll have a valve cover gasket leaking down the back of the engine too. I personally just monitored mine for years until my oil pump pressure dropped and it wasn't the gauge or the pressure switch. The RMS is a PITA, but really just get a couple spares and be patient. getting the exhaust out of the way was the hardest part for me and I had to cut some stuff that was seized up. Hopefully it will be easier for you. I did all that around 250k miles on the odometer, so that's not a terrible repair for that kind of mileage.
 
Also tranny fill plug allen wrench size - any idea?

Until I can get the RMS replaced...

@BugoutJeep if its just a plate less worried about it then
Yeah I wouldn't worry about the plate almost at all. I did an engine swap and kept the transmission and I don't have anything filling that hole. I think the worst case you'll run into is a rattle.
 
X2, installing that bolt won't cure the rear main seal leak above it.

If you're running synthetic engine oil, changing the oil to a High Mileage CONVENTIONAL engine oil will likely rejuvenate the seal and cure the leak. Synthetic engine oils can cause seals to lose their elasticity and ability to seal. My previous car developed a bad rear main seal leak, it was leaving a daily puddle of oil on my garage floor. Changing from its previous diet of Castrol Synthetic to a High Mileage conventional engine oil cured the leak within several days of driving.

High Mileage engine oils contain extra amounts of seal reconditioning products that can really work well to cure this kind of leak.
 
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is it the same thread pitch as the others? I would just stick something into the hole to get the depth and buy one just shy of that length. It's just the flex plate cover, it's not holding anything together or sealing anything up. If your leak is in that area, that cover is only hiding it. Although that looks like oil not atf, so I'm thinking RMS is your likely culprit.
His rig doesn't have a flex plate, if that helps at all.
 
Ok, flywheel cover. I stand corrected. I don't think it changes much with regard to how I answered the question.
Not much except the auto has an inspection cover that is removable. The manual has several sheet metal screws that are not machine thread that stop the motor plate from rattling when you tighten them into the bellhousing.