Death wobble (don’t see anything loose)

As stated above, it can be done. I couldn’t get the better grade of Moog in just the bushing. I went with new arms pre-loaded from Detroit Axle. They use the better K series Moog instead of the budget grade. Cost almost twice as much As individual.
This is good information. I just checked and the use of Moog K-Series bushings appears to be accurate.

Detroit axle is likely the best option for stock-type control arms. I used their front sway bar links and they lasted longer than any other OE style I’d tried.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kid Mechanic
After all the upgrades 2 weeks ago to a complete set of adjustable control arms and 2 1/2” lift (MOAB springs and Rancho shocks) I park the TJ up until I got back from work until I got the wheel alignment done (I set this up by eye as best I could in my carport). So back from work and I took it in yesterday to get the wheel alignment done, my local guy takes it for a drive and then sets it up on the machine and he was like WOW. I had set it up that close to the required specs (caster was perfect +7 as required) all he had to do was a very minor adjustment to the toe angle and a minor tweak to set the steering wheel straight.. I test drove it at speed and drives sweet as.. Got to be happy when you put in the work and due diligence and it gets results like that. 😎
 
This afternoon I chocked my front tires and set my phone under the Jeep with camera pointed at the left front control arms. I hopped in and started it and then rocked back and forth against the chock. Then I filmed the right side. I’m looking for movement in the control arm bushings.

I’m still not seeing any slop in any of the pivot points. Am I stupid for thinking I’m going to find a "smoking gun"? When I watch videos of folks performing these tests, there is always an obvious sloppy ball joint or bushing or TRE. I’m not seeing any of that.

What am I missing?



 
That suggests the tire shop might not be so great, your wheels might also be bent or a tire out of round (somebody said recently you have to watch them on the balance machine to be sure they are tracking straight I think). Rotating the tires might give you some temporary relief. You might also adjust the front with a bit of toe-out. That normally tests the front upper control arms but until you get it sorted out it might help a bit. Just a bit toe out or even neutral instead of the normal toe in.
Well, I checked my toe-in this morning. I had 3/16” of toe-out. I corrected that to 1/8" toe-in. No change. DW at 43mph in a left curve. I was already sweaty and dirty, so I disconnected the trackbar from the axle bracket and checked the bracket holes. The are straight and true and still round.
I am giving up on trying to diagnose this. I’m going to start replacing components and hope for the best. Any suggestions on what to replace first? My trackbar and TREs are fairly new. The rest is stock. I’m thinking all four front control arms to start and then all four ball joints.
 
This afternoon I chocked my front tires and set my phone under the Jeep with camera pointed at the left front control arms. I hopped in and started it and then rocked back and forth against the chock. Then I filmed the right side. I’m looking for movement in the control arm bushings.

I’m still not seeing any slop in any of the pivot points. Am I stupid for thinking I’m going to find a "smoking gun"? When I watch videos of folks performing these tests, there is always an obvious sloppy ball joint or bushing or TRE. I’m not seeing any of that.

What am I missing?




I dont think rocking back and forth against the chock creates the rotatiinal torque on the axle you need to see slop in your control arms.
 
Control arms first for sure, I think that is money well spent even if it isn't the magic bullet. I'd be really hesitant about the ball joints, you only get a few shots at those before the housing is worn out.
 
Well, I checked my toe-in this morning. I had 3/16” of toe-out. I corrected that to 1/8" toe-in. No change. DW at 43mph in a left curve. I was already sweaty and dirty, so I disconnected the trackbar from the axle bracket and checked the bracket holes. The are straight and true and still round.
I am giving up on trying to diagnose this. I’m going to start replacing components and hope for the best. Any suggestions on what to replace first? My trackbar and TREs are fairly new. The rest is stock. I’m thinking all four front control arms to start and then all four ball joints.

End of story...What fixed your dw?