Engine revving hard after installing new OPDA

OFFRD TJ

Member
Original poster
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
96
Location
East Greenbush,NY
Hi Folks - Today, I installed a Crown OPDA on my 2006 TJ and I used the pin that came with the new OPDA to line up the engine, but after installing the new OPDA, my engine seems to be revving hard (it is almost like misfires). Did I do something wrong? Also, the new OPDA is very free and easily rotating clockwise/counterclockwise with hand even after securing it at the bottom 13mm bolt. I hope I didn't screw up something.

I used the factory sensor with the new OPDA, not the one that came with the Crown OPDA.

Please help.
 
Hi Folks - Today, I installed a Crown OPDA on my 2006 TJ and I used the pin that came with the new OPDA to line up the engine, but after installing the new OPDA, my engine seems to be revving hard (it is almost like misfires). Did I do something wrong? Also, the new OPDA is very free and easily rotating clockwise/counterclockwise with hand even after securing it at the bottom 13mm bolt. I hope I didn't screw up something.

I used the factory sensor with the new OPDA, not the one that came with the Crown OPDA.

Please help.
Did you accidentally flip the retainer clip upside down when installing the new one? It shouldn’t rotate at all by hand once that’s tightened.
 
Did you accidentally flip the retainer clip upside down when installing the new one? It shouldn’t rotate at all by hand once that’s tightened.
I think I might have put it back the wrong way. The retainer clip extended end is in the upward direction when I put it back. Should it be facing down? Also, do I have to remove the OPDA completely and redo the installation to fix the other engine hard revving issues?
 
I think I might have put it back the wrong way. The retainer clip extended end is in the upward direction when I put it back. Should it be facing down? Also, do I have to remove the OPDA completely and redo the installation to fix the other engine hard revving issues?
Yes, on mine the tipped pieces are facing down. I believe I kept it in the orientation that I removed it when doing my opda a few years ago. But as long as it’s held tight the orientation probably doesn’t matter.

As far as fixing it, I’d say you’re best bet is to get the engine to TDC and fix it.
 
They should point down.

If you had it properly aligned when you put it in, and if the retainer held it down and didn't let it jump a tooth, you should be able to put the pin in it and then tighten it down. If the holes align and the timing mark on the crank pulley aligns with the pointer, you should be good. You will get a code if it's not properly aligned.
 
Yes, on mine the tipped pieces are facing down. I believe I kept it in the orientation that I removed it when doing my opda a few years ago. But as long as it’s held tight the orientation probably doesn’t matter.

As far as fixing it, I’d say you’re best bet is to get the engine to TDC and fix it.
Thank you very much. Hopefully, I can get the top dead center (TDC) back the same way I did by aligning the two holes and inserting the pin to keep it in position.
They should point down.

If you had it properly aligned when you put it in, and if the retainer held it down and didn't let it jump a tooth, you should be able to put the pin in it and then tighten it down. If the holes align and the timing mark on the crank pulley aligns with the pointer, you should be good. You will get a code if it's not properly aligned.
I re-installed it and it ran smoothly with no CEL on the dashboard. Engine Oil gauge showed normal (the pointer was in the middle), however, when I took it for a ride, after a mile or so the CEL comes back on with a P0016 code. I read the other forums with OPDA alignment issues and folks who had this same issue said they rotated the OPDA clockwise just a bit to get rid of the CEL. I want to try this method and see if it fixes the CEL. If you have other suggestions, please do let me know. Thanks!
 
You may be off in either direction, so if CW doesn't work, try CCW.
After a few tries CW and CCW I think I might have landed on the sweet spot. The CEL with P0016 has gone and no other codes are present and the engine runs smooth. I drove close to 10 miles and the code has not returned back. I don't know if I can call it a success so soon, but time will tell if, in fact, I have corrected the OPDA issue with the camshaft and crankshaft signal correlation issue.

Not sure if I could've fixed this without your help and suggestions. A big thanks to all of you.

Take Care!
 
You may be off in either direction, so if CW doesn't work, try CCW.
After a few tries CW and CCW I think I might have landed on the sweet spot. The CEL with P0016 has gone and no other codes are present and the engine runs smooth. I drove close to 10 miles and the code has not returned back. I don't know if I can call it a success so soon, but time will tell if, in fact, I have corrected the OPDA issue with the camshaft and crankshaft signal correlation issue.

Not sure if I could've fixed this without your help and suggestions. A big thanks to all of you.

Take Care!
 
Since I'm taking the LJR into the local dealer for the clutch safety recall I'm considering having them swap in the OPDA (Crown) that I have in hand, as well as the Iridium plugs that should arrive today. Just about to turn 30k on the odometer. Hell, I'm having them do oil/filter/grease, which I always do myself.
Yeah, I can wrench and I've watched the OPDA video on YT, I've never done it and it looks like 1 and done with both OPDA and plugs. What the heck, save me from a potential headache in exchange for some cash. Or, call me chicken.
Further rationalization - 6" of lift makes it a big PITA under the hood (soon to be remedied).
 
I read (on this forum) that you need a DRB scan tool to properly set the OPDA. Moving it around to find a spot where it doesn't throw a code, seems like trying to set the timing on an old motor without a timing light.

This is from @mrblaine : "Most of them are just lucky and get it within tolerable range and it runs. So, they tell everyone since they did it, everyone else can to. We always reset the timing of the unit with a DRB and do the forced relearn. Not one of them put in with even very careful marking and care about orientation is even close to being in spec."
 
I read (on this forum) that you need a DRB scan tool to properly set the OPDA. Moving it around to find a spot where it doesn't throw a code, seems like trying to set the timing on an old motor without a timing light.

This is from @mrblaine : "Most of them are just lucky and get it within tolerable range and it runs. So, they tell everyone since they did it, everyone else can to. We always reset the timing of the unit with a DRB and do the forced relearn. Not one of them put in with even very careful marking and care about orientation is even close to being in spec."
Like most folks, I'd rather be lucky than good.
 
Like most folks, I'd rather be lucky than good.
I ask a lot of questions around here and like to think I can discern good from not so good advice. In this case, I'm going to take the Crown part to my favorite mechanic with a scan tool and have it done correctly. I just left there and he's done them before. I know I'd be in the 'got it close' camp, or worse.