Removing JKS ACOS Spacers

FarFire70

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I'm working through upgrades and about to tackle installing the Savvy suspension lift. I currently have JKS ACOS spacers on front and back that have been installed for about 7 years. They're coming out when the lift goes in.

I'm currently working through some rusted bolts on my BL replacement so I'm curious about anyone's experience removing the ACOS spacers. Given that they slide over the stock bumpstop post, I'm concerned/anticipating about rust bonding of the ACOS spacers to the stock steel.

Anyone gone through removing ACOS spacers that have been installed for a while? Any rust bonding experienced? Looking for any experiences before I get around to pulling them in the next few days. If so and had any sticking/bonding, any tips getting them to release?

I'm hopeful they'll just slide off but experience tells me otherwise. :cautious:
 
Do you know if, when installed, they had any corrosion protection used? Some antiseize or something?
 
Do you know if, when installed, they had any corrosion protection used? Some antiseize or something?
I'm hopeful I was smart enough to do that at the time but it may be a false memory...
 
I'm working through upgrades and about to tackle installing the Savvy suspension lift. I currently have JKS ACOS spacers on front and back that have been installed for about 7 years. They're coming out when the lift goes in.


I'm currently working through some rusted bolts on my BL replacement so I'm curious about anyone's experience removing the ACOS spacers. Given that they slide over the stock bumpstop post, I'm concerned/anticipating about rust bonding of the ACOS spacers to the stock steel.

Anyone gone through removing ACOS spacers that have been installed for a while? Any rust bonding experienced? Looking for any experiences before I get around to pulling them in the next few days. If so and had any sticking/bonding, any tips getting them to release?

I'm hopeful they'll just slide off but experience tells me otherwise. :cautious:
Instead of starting a new thread I'm looking here for an update on how this went. Specifically interested in confirming this: "Given that they slide over the stock bumpstop post.."

I'm in the process of returning to OEM style spring setup and removing the ACOS. Reading ACOS Pro installation instructions they say,
"The majority of the factory spring retainer must be permanently removed from the upper spring mount in order to install the ACOS Pro. This modification is not reversible and should only be performed by an experienced mechanic or fabricator." I don't know if this has been done.

I know I'll find out when I remove the spring and ACOS but..

Kind of mixed info. Please enlighten me.

Add: If the spring retainer post is gone I suppose my next best step would be 3" springs + ACOS minimum 1.25" lift. Not ideal. Goal is 4" with TT/BL and 35s
 
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Instead of starting a new thread I'm looking here for an update on how this went. Specifically interested in confirming this: "Given that they slide over the stock bumpstop post.."

I'm in the process of returning to OEM style spring setup and removing the ACOS. Reading ACOS Pro installation instructions they say,
"The majority of the factory spring retainer must be permanently removed from the upper spring mount in order to install the ACOS Pro. This modification is not reversible and should only be performed by an experienced mechanic or fabricator." I don't know if this has been done.

I know I'll find out when I remove the spring and ACOS but..

Kind of mixed info. Please enlighten me.

Add: If the spring retainer post is gone I suppose my next best step would be 3" springs + ACOS minimum 1.25" lift. Not ideal. Goal is 4" with TT/BL and 35s

Luckily, I never modified my bumpstop posts. Also lucky because when I did tear apart the suspension, the spacers came off without any issue. I was very surprised in the rustbelt.

The OEM bumpstop posts do not need to be modified to be installed so hopefully you'll be alright. I don't get why JKS puts that in the instructions. If they were modified by the previous owner, you could keep the ACOS based with the threads and bumpstop. Remove the locking ring and put the rubber spacer on the base without the ring. This should only equal another 1/2"-3/4" of lift (compared to keeping the ring and getting the 1.25" you mention).

Otherwise, you'd need to find a replacement OEM post and a welder.

The only risk is the ACOS base will extend your bumpstop rubber longer than OEM. This COULD limit your upward movement, but I suspect you'll need to extend the bumpstops longer than OEM in most cases so this added length may not be an issue.
 
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Definitely worth a shot if they're modified.
Hoping to find a 2nd pair of hands to attack this. Removing ACOS and rear relo brackets (bolt-on fortunately), refit spring then cycling everything to check for shock length and decide whether to keep the current springs or change them out. I already have the new OEM parts for both ends so if the spring retainer (bumpstop post) is intact that'll be a big plus.

Thanks for the quick reply.
 
Definitely worth a shot if they're modified.
Hoping to find a 2nd pair of hands to attack this. Removing ACOS and rear relo brackets (bolt-on fortunately), refit spring then cycling everything to check for shock length and decide whether to keep the current springs or change them out. I already have the new OEM parts for both ends so if the spring retainer (bumpstop post) is intact that'll be a big plus.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Recommend a spring compressor tool with the ACOS. I know many on here frown on them and they scare the crap out of me too, because of the stored potential energy. I picked up a set online that use a 'pin' to lock onto the spring. With ACOS set at 2.5", they were a huge help removing my springs solo.

You can also rent a set at your local auto store. Just be safe.
 
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Recommend a spring compressor tool with the ACOS. I know many on here frown on them and they scare the crap out of me too, because of the stored potential energy. I picked up a set online that use a 'pin' to lock onto the spring. With ACOS set at 2.5", they were a huge help removing my springs solo.

You can also rent a set at your local auto store. Just be safe.
Yup, son-in-law has a nice one with locking pins. I usually manually screw them instead of impact.
 
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Yup, son-in-law has a nice one with locking pins. I usually manually screw them instead of impact.
Same on hand turning. I tried the impact and it was too uncontrollable to keep the compression equal. A ratcheting breaker bar and it was minimal effort doing it manually on Jeep. On the ground is just finding a way to put your foot in the right place to hold it in place as you remove the compressor.
 
I saw a replacement upper tube replacement online last night but didn't bookmark the darn thing. Any hints.

If my tubes are gone when I tear into this it's either replace them or shop shorter springs if I want to get this thing lower I guess.

I'm not a welder but I know a couple..
https://www.artecindustries.com/tjucoil-oem
 
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Confirmed it is NOT necessary to cut OEM junk off a TJ/LJ to install ACOS. Removed today and there she be. Opens up my options for new springs. Gonna get this gem down to a reasonable height and keep the 35s.
Also my first real cycling of a suspension - real eye-opener.

PXL_20211121_060730813.webp
 
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