fourpointzero
TJ Addict
Thats basically a FREE project. But no doubt a project. If you have the space to park it, the time to work on it, the tools. and the patience- grab it! You can make double asking on parts alone.
What would you pay for a TJ that's been sitting for a long time?
- Thread starter Yoda
- Start date
Thanks guys! I'll be sure to take some pictures when I go there Wednesday and will download the build sheet also when I get the VIN. I don't mind patching some minor rust spots on the tub or replacing floorpans. I don't mind repairing the frame a little bit either, but will probably higher a mobile welder to handle that. That's a structural thing and outside of my comfort zone.
If the frame is really crunchy and the tub is good enough I still might go for it. I did a quick google search and good used frames run from $800-$2k. A bit harder to find and not as plentiful as they used to be, but they are out there.
The body will be coming off the frame anyways, so if I have to swap frames it's no big deal. If I buy it for $1k, sell the plow for $500 and buy a good used frame for $1,500 I'll be $2k into it for a low mileage TJ. I can probably live with that. There are other $2k TJ's in New England but there they are beat, broken, super high mileage or completely rusted out.
What are everyone's thoughts on those weld-on "Frame Repair Sections"?
If the frame is really crunchy and the tub is good enough I still might go for it. I did a quick google search and good used frames run from $800-$2k. A bit harder to find and not as plentiful as they used to be, but they are out there.
The body will be coming off the frame anyways, so if I have to swap frames it's no big deal. If I buy it for $1k, sell the plow for $500 and buy a good used frame for $1,500 I'll be $2k into it for a low mileage TJ. I can probably live with that. There are other $2k TJ's in New England but there they are beat, broken, super high mileage or completely rusted out.
What are everyone's thoughts on those weld-on "Frame Repair Sections"?
hardtailpan
TJ Enthusiast
My thoughts are if you are going to remove the body from the frame, do it the right way and replace the frame. Many people (including myself) wouldn't buy a TJ with a patched frame. It really hurts the value.
You are right there anyway, just do it!
The problem with a rig that is rusted so bad the frame needs repair is that most every bolt is going to fight you every time you have to remove it. This leads to broken bolts and the shit show domino effect that follows.
I would rather make a 10-15 hr drive and get a clean rig that isn’t going to offer a lifetime of frustration and disappointment.
I would rather make a 10-15 hr drive and get a clean rig that isn’t going to offer a lifetime of frustration and disappointment.
Yes, if he is interested in doing so. My response is in regards to keeping and building it.
Still,he should buy it,tjs don’t get any cheaper,one of the many Jeep parters on f/b would love to get a hold of that one.
I'm going to check it out tomorrow. If its a total basket case....even though I can make my money back I'll probably pass.
I've been driving by this TJ for 15 years and it hasn't really moved. The couple that bought it (new) is elderly and I'm expecting really low miles. I was telling the wife that if the tub is nasty, I'll pass. If the floorboards have minor rust I can repair that.
If the frame is shot and the body is good enough I'll still go for it. Frames are getting harder to find but I can still find a frame from $750 to $1500.
If I sell the plow and get a frame....I'll be into this thing for less than or around $2k. I'll consider that a win for a low mileage TJ with plenty of potential. I'll let you guys know tomorrow!
I'll be bringing a inspection camera with a boroscope to peak inside the frame and will be bringing a 3ft breaker bar to try and spin the engine.
I've been driving by this TJ for 15 years and it hasn't really moved. The couple that bought it (new) is elderly and I'm expecting really low miles. I was telling the wife that if the tub is nasty, I'll pass. If the floorboards have minor rust I can repair that.
If the frame is shot and the body is good enough I'll still go for it. Frames are getting harder to find but I can still find a frame from $750 to $1500.
If I sell the plow and get a frame....I'll be into this thing for less than or around $2k. I'll consider that a win for a low mileage TJ with plenty of potential. I'll let you guys know tomorrow!
I'll be bringing a inspection camera with a boroscope to peak inside the frame and will be bringing a 3ft breaker bar to try and spin the engine.
fourpointzero
TJ Addict
You know, I failed to mention "budget" in my original post. And thats truly a moving goal post in itself. At least till you get it running proper and structurally sound. What starts off as 1k (or any initial cost) can easily go into the double digits. Some Jeep freaks keep "building" and are never satisfied. It is fun, though. Thats for sure.
No budget. This will be a pay as you go type of build. Not going for an over the top build.....just good enough.
I'll be going through the engine and drive train anyway....so par for the course. If I end up with a solid base for $2k, even of replacing the frame...I'll consider that a win.
I'll be going through the engine and drive train anyway....so par for the course. If I end up with a solid base for $2k, even of replacing the frame...I'll consider that a win.
What you think it will cost and what it actually does is at least double the amount. No such thing as an inexpensive Jeep project.
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hardtailpan
TJ Enthusiast
If you have a car trailer, or can otherwise get it home cheaply, there is pretty much no reason not to buy it as long as you are willing to look at it objectively, and are willing to spend the time and effort to part it out should it make sense.
Someone above mentioned that every bolt is going to fight you. This is what I was saying. Just getting the body off the frame will have you cutting it off, and repairing torque boxes on the body. Again, if you are a decent welder, not the end of the world, but it's a lot of work. You can buy the torque box pieces or fabricate. One is time and one is money....
Also, if you're taking it down this far, all of the suspension should of course be re-done. You will need to do all the brake lines. The complete brake system should be rebuilt, etc. With all of that, driveline rebuilding, etc, the reality is you're going to be into this as a project for many thousands of dollars of parts. If you start to count your labor....well, don't, it will be thousands of hours.
With enough TJs around that are reasonably clean to very rust free, I wouldn't rebuild a rotted one. It's not fun work and you'll never get your money back. Now, if it was a 71 hemi cuda or something.....
Anyway, let us know what you decide and please, pictures!!! Should you decide to pass on it, please lmk, as I'd be interested in grabbing it for some parts for mine and then part the rest.
Oh, and make sure they have a clean and clear title or are willing to get one. I just went thru this fun in Mass and you don't want to fight that battle, trust me.
I'm sorry, but I don't have anything to feed you today. Please go back under the bridge until you can be useful.
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This isn't my first rodeo. Just about every vehicle I've had has been built, not bought. I don't mind putting a little sweat equity into something. If I can get this cheap and put some hard work into it to get it right, I'd rather do that than spend 4 times that on a solid base.
This is going to be a father/son project...since we live in the Northeast I might as well teach my son how to deal with a few rusty and frozen bolts while I'm at it. If this TJ is solid enough to build upon I'll go for it, if I am going to have to rebuild the body or chase rot forever...I'll pass.
That's the plan. Nothing will be left untouched. A restoration is not the term I'd use, more like a re-build. Any wearable item will be addressed and/or replaced.
Even though its been sitting forever and supposedly has low miles...I'm hoping the owners didn't drive it in the salt too much and the frame and underneath is still good. We'll see tomorrow.
I dont know if id put alot of pressure on that engine. might break a ring if their stuck. i would just buy it and when you get it home remove the plugs and spray the cylinders with some kroil and let them sit overnight. my brother bought a 4 wheeler for $50 and the engine was locked up, we did this and the next day got it to break free. rebuilt the carb and had it running a hour later. then do a compression and leak down test on it , might not even need a rebuild !
Bingo. I usually spray Kroil in the cylinders at night and the following morning put a squirt of transmission fluid in each cylinder. Give it some hours, or a day even....then try and spin it.
I've done this to a few engines that people thought were totally sized due to sitting. Works great.
I'm not going to go too nuts trying to spin it. The 3ft breaker will just be a convenient size to use.
The engine is going to be rebuilt by me....so I don't want to screw up the cylinders and put a nasty scratch or gouge in there. Hoping to hone them, re-ring the pistons, throw some new bearings in there and be done with it as long as things measure within spec.
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It hurts the value outside of the salt belt, sure. But a professionally patched frame using Safe T Cap still catches good money on the East Coast. Generally speaking these frames rot in two places: the rear trailing arm section and the skid plate. Replacing the frame is an enormous ordeal, whereas patching the frame is a weekend.
You also need to find a frame. That frame also has to be rust-free, or else you're back to square one. You might get lucky and get one off Marketplace for a song, but someone selling a TJ frame usually knows what they have and most likely you're spending thousands. Moreover, you have to make sure the frame isn't bent—it's coming off a wrecked Jeep, after all—and it's very hard to tell when it's lying on the ground.
In this case, he's already removing the body and potentially the engine, so you're right, a frame swap would actually make sense here. However, if this is not going to be a show Jeep, I'd save yourself the headache and patch the frame and be done with it.
Yup! I agree 100%. If I am surprised and things are in structurally sound shape...the body is staying on and the underneath will get decreased and will get a zinc-phosphate wash and the POR-15.
If repair work needs to be done, the body is coming off. If one or two spots need patching I'm fine with that. If the frame needs alot of attention I will find a replacement down south.
The entire drive train is going to be removed anyways for servicing and upgrades.
If repair work needs to be done, the body is coming off. If one or two spots need patching I'm fine with that. If the frame needs alot of attention I will find a replacement down south.
The entire drive train is going to be removed anyways for servicing and upgrades.
Vtx531
TJ Addict
Do you really want to be a full time rusty/old Jeep mechanic and junkyard/parts salesman?
No thanks!!!
No thanks!!!
Negative ghost rider. If the underneath of this thing looks like it came out of the deep sea I'll pass. A frame swap is no big deal if I end up with a rust free jeep afterwards.
Stay tuned....diving underneath tomorrow at 1pm.
PICTURES!!!
Alright....took a look at this beast. Turns out it is a 97, not a 98 and has 106k miles not 80k. It also has a 32RH, not an AX-15. It is 100% stock aside from the plow.
THE GOOD:
EXTERIOR:
INTERIOR:
Alright....took a look at this beast. Turns out it is a 97, not a 98 and has 106k miles not 80k. It also has a 32RH, not an AX-15. It is 100% stock aside from the plow.
THE GOOD:
- The interior is in good shape. Not nearly as mousey as I was expecting. The driver seat has a small tear in the fabric but that's about it.
- The exterior is in pretty good shape too. The rear corners have some rot that will need to be cut out but I was planning on putting corner guards there anyways. The front fenders also have some rot...the Genright Hi-Fenders will fix that.
- Gambler wheels are in good shape. The clearcoat is peeling and a little oxidation but are in good physical shape.
- The hardtop is in good shape but will need some paint. The doors are also in good shape but the locks are frozen. Even from inside they didn't want to unlatch. It was 15F out and they've been sitting forever, pretty sure I can free them up.
- The motor doesn't want to spin by hand but I didn't put a breaker bar on it for fear of breaking something. But I don't think it is seized. It had plenty of oil in the engine. No water or ice on the dipstick. The engine will go through a minor rebuild and refresh probably regardless.
- The coolant is very low. I don't know if the water evaporated off or if it all leaked out. Not really worried.
- The FRAME is actually not so bad. The pictures make it look a bit nasty but it's more flaking paint and surface rust and a bit of scale here and there. I couldn't poke any holes in the usual spots.
- The only obvious place of concern was the transfer case skid. It looks a little crunchy but not completely rotted.
- It has a Dana 35 in the back (bummer) instead of a Dana 44...but the build sheet I downloaded says it has Trac-lok. It has 3.07's.
- The torque boxes are trashed!
- The the body mounts are in real rough shape.
- The floor isn't rotted but will need some patching were a few panels come together.
- The previous owner backed up into a tree while plowing. The tailgate is tweaked a little bit and doesn't want to close easy. Might be able to bend it back.....or just get a replacement.
EXTERIOR:
INTERIOR:
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