Oh, the single shear build of the AR is probably fine if both are mounted the same side or opposite. The torsion bar probably puts about half the rated shear strength.
The 9 (or 3) position will give some adjustability. As you mentioned though it may not be needed. If you are sure it’s not needed, do the angle with angle with best clearance and cut the other holes off for even more room/clearance.
Oh, the single shear build of the AR is probably fine if both are mounted the same side or opposite. The torsion bar probably puts about half the rated shear strength.
Did you check to make sure the air bags don't bulge out and hit the bar when they're compressed?Before I headed to the other side I had to get a shot of the finished product.
View attachment 309749
I might have to extend the link a bit more to get the heim nut up a little more.
View attachment 309750
And then the drivers side.
View attachment 309751
And the tab on the axle welded in place with the link straight.
View attachment 309752
View attachment 309753
Once I get the thin nuts and cut the threads off I'll try flexing it more. But I think I've about got this.... Fingers crossed.
Did you check to make sure the air bags don't bulge out and hit the bar when they're compressed?
I probably wouldve put the link (vertical bar) in front of axle so it wouldn't hit.
I don't know whats wrong with your body but I got room for days hahahI had the bags compressed pretty good at full stuff but will look at it again. I'm not sure how you mean to put the link in front of the axle? The arms are the shortest ones they offer. Unless you're suggesting that I drill a hole in arms that puts the link more towards the front of the Jeep?
Brooooo you know I'm abouts that cutting brake life!Yep yack it up.... But I also don't have that long body to try and drag thru the trees. And those 5-6 point turns I can do in 2....
And I've got hardly any overhang too.
Brooooo you know I'm abouts that cutting brake life!
Good on you for helping out family. Hopefully it brings you some good luck with the rest of your rear axle!I got an appointment tomorrow morning so won't get a lot done but will hopefully get in a few hours tomorrow afternoon.
Wednesday I've got an appointment at the U of WA for a new foot study and will be picking up the exhaust from the ceramic coating shop.
Thursday I will get some done to it but have to get my truck packed with tools I'll need for a rear axle seal fix. My nieces boyfriend's car has a bad wheel bearing and axle seal and they are broke. And her car lost reverse so I am going to go over and fix his car. Got to be the good uncle. I'm headed over there Thursday afternoon and will come home once it's all fixed. Figuring Friday and maybe part of Saturday. It's a Crown Vic with a 8.8 so it isn't a HUGE job.
Unless you’re going over 110” the TJ is well suited, unless you absolutely need a foot more of storage space.Yep, and I'm waiting to see how well they work for you. I wonder if these bigger brakes I've installed could lock up a wheel?
There are times I wish I'd bought a LJ. I went and looked at one right after I'd paid my TJ off. And it was a RubiHara too.
Good on you for helping out family. Hopefully it brings you some good luck with the rest of your rear axle!
Also, more studies = more Jeep parts right?
Unless you’re going over 110” the TJ is well suited, unless you absolutely need a foot more of storage space.
I would like the extra space, but not enough to start over…Got to pay it forward right? My BIL isn't very mechanically inclined so I've always been the go to guy for stuff.
And YES more studies mean more Jeep funds.
Up until a few years ago I needed the additional storage space as I had more than 2 people in the rig. So when I was looking at LJ's it was for the added space.
I did notice the ceramic coating on my headers scratched if you are not careful. I assume that's normal, but I don't know. My first heat cycle was on the dyno, but I didn't really have a choice. My engine guy told me not to run it at all with a stock tune. I've suffered no ill effects as far as I can tell.@WSS you'd posted before about being careful with the ceramic coating on my headers so I'll assume the same apply to the Y-pipes.
When I do finally get the Jeep reassembled and go to fire off the engine for the first time are there any precautions I need to take with the coated headers and exhaust? They did include some basic directions but all it says in them is to not run the engine on a dyno until you have a minimum of 3 heat cycles on the exhaust.
Appreciate any help as this is my first time with using ceramic coated parts.
It is the weld spatter and even grinding sparks to a lesser degree that damages the coating. Handling them should be fine. even before the heat cycles, they are tough and scratch resistant.@WSS you'd posted before about being careful with the ceramic coating on my headers so I'll assume the same apply to the Y-pipes.
When I do finally get the Jeep reassembled and go to fire off the engine for the first time are there any precautions I need to take with the coated headers and exhaust? They did include some basic directions but all it says in them is to not run the engine on a dyno until you have a minimum of 3 heat cycles on the exhaust.
Appreciate any help as this is my first time with using ceramic coated parts.