I have got 235 15,s on mine. I have spent a year and a half pondering bigger tyres and a lift but I dont need either and the 235 75 15s look proportionate to me.
What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
Greased the steering components and ball joints, and took a good look at everything else underneath while I was there.
Yours looks good like it is, but 31s and a small lift would look proportionate too.
Everyone knows red Jeeps are faster, get better gas mileage, and their owners are better looking!
The doors not the body. You're missing out:Everyone knows red Jeeps are faster, get better gas mileage, and their owners are better looking!
Chris said:
rasband said:
Just finished the new roof rack. Needed it to haul 2 kayaks. It comes off with 4 bolts and allows the sunrider to open.
It's all about keeping the Jeep proportionate--not just for looks, but for performance and purpose. That's what I'm starting to understand. This thread is awesome for that performance piece.Yours looks good like it is, but 31s and a small lift would look proportionate too.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...j-and-other-re-gearing-faqs.17063/post-277690
SouthernLJ
TJ Enthusiast
I rekeyed the lock cylinders for my half doors to match my ignition key. @MountaineerTom's thread was a big help.
Re-key half door locks
Re-key half door locks
Jacket4256
TJ Enthusiast
Listen I never said that I was good at google lol
Also just found out that the sunrider feature is a factory frame option, guess I have just scratched the surface on my jeep.
Red Jeeps are really just yellow Jeeps wishing they were orange Jeeps.View attachment 320330
Everyone knows red Jeeps are faster, get better gas mileage, and their owners are better looking!
Been wanting to get dirt on my new tyres. Got it done. Went over by PIR to the Salt River bed. Also brought my phone. The speedo gear is spot on. No pics because gosh darn it all, these 35" tyres are tall. Gonna take some for me to make it look graceful getting in and out.
Got a new to me rear bumper painted and installed. Guy said he thinks it is a Warn..not so sure though. I’ve yet to find a Warn without the W’s cutout. Either way, Going to put it to the test.
Carfax reminded me that it was time to rotate tires. I rotated all five and did the 6-month greasing of all the front end points.
Then I decided I was tired looking at the overstretched and saggy elastic rear window straps so I made a pair of non-stretch ones.
EDIT: I went back to confirm the material I used for the straps. It is polypropylene, not nylon. I bought it when I made a cargo area storage bag, and if memory serves, I purchased polypropylene because it was more fade-resistant than nylon. It may give up some strength to nylon, but all my research suggested it was a better outdoor and weather-capable material. Full disclosure up front.
Cut 1-inch (25 mm) widenylon polypropylene into strips with a hot knife:
Fold thenylon polypropylene in half and make a hole for the snap:
Place the snap's parts on the strap and then onto a setting plate. The domed part of the snap rests in a recess in the black plate, the silver tool is the snap setter. It surrounds the snap and you hit the end of its middle plunger and it rounds the snap's internal stem out and down, setting it in place.
Use a hammer to hit the plunger and set the snap:
Install on the vehicle:
DIY tips:
1. The snaps on my frame sized out as Line 24 snaps. That's the size snaps I used for this project. I can't guarantee that's the same size for all frames, but if it is stock, you should be good to go. Line 20 would have been way too small.
2. If I'm rolling it up, I like my rear window up high. I measured and thought an 11.5-inch strap would work. It did, but just barely. I made a second pair of straps at 12-inches (30.5 cm) and they work just fine. Easy on/off.
3. Last fall I splurged and bought this particular snap setter for my leatherworking. It is a Barry King brand and I bought both Line 24 and Line 20 setters. Today was the first time I'd used either of them, but I wish I'd had them from the beginning. I can't tell you how many snaps I've hit out of line with the usual setters. This one worked perfectly.
Anyway, I'll see how they perform, but I'm not too worried.
If anyone wants the tighter-fitting, but serviceable, trial set of straps, let me know and I'll get them to you for the USPS cost.
Then I decided I was tired looking at the overstretched and saggy elastic rear window straps so I made a pair of non-stretch ones.
EDIT: I went back to confirm the material I used for the straps. It is polypropylene, not nylon. I bought it when I made a cargo area storage bag, and if memory serves, I purchased polypropylene because it was more fade-resistant than nylon. It may give up some strength to nylon, but all my research suggested it was a better outdoor and weather-capable material. Full disclosure up front.
Cut 1-inch (25 mm) wide
Fold the
Place the snap's parts on the strap and then onto a setting plate. The domed part of the snap rests in a recess in the black plate, the silver tool is the snap setter. It surrounds the snap and you hit the end of its middle plunger and it rounds the snap's internal stem out and down, setting it in place.
Use a hammer to hit the plunger and set the snap:
Install on the vehicle:
DIY tips:
1. The snaps on my frame sized out as Line 24 snaps. That's the size snaps I used for this project. I can't guarantee that's the same size for all frames, but if it is stock, you should be good to go. Line 20 would have been way too small.
2. If I'm rolling it up, I like my rear window up high. I measured and thought an 11.5-inch strap would work. It did, but just barely. I made a second pair of straps at 12-inches (30.5 cm) and they work just fine. Easy on/off.
3. Last fall I splurged and bought this particular snap setter for my leatherworking. It is a Barry King brand and I bought both Line 24 and Line 20 setters. Today was the first time I'd used either of them, but I wish I'd had them from the beginning. I can't tell you how many snaps I've hit out of line with the usual setters. This one worked perfectly.
Anyway, I'll see how they perform, but I'm not too worried.
If anyone wants the tighter-fitting, but serviceable, trial set of straps, let me know and I'll get them to you for the USPS cost.
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I had a blast! My Brother came over and we blasted the front sub assemble for the '67 Mini he is restoring. I blasted some parts for the front tow hitch I'm building for my LJ. What a mess! 
robertbutera
New Member
New water pump. While I was at it, replaced T-stat, T-stat housing, flushed the heater core, drained/replaced rest of coolant. I didn't do a full-on overhaul flush (lack of time today and for the next few weeks, but I decided to flush the heater core since the hoses were disconnected), but now the temp needle instead of being right on the dot at 210 is slightly to the left of it (bonus? I wasn't trying to fix any cooling system issues beyond the water pump leak).
I learned that Jeep dealerships around here have parts departments that are open on Saturday, and can see the inventory of other dealerships. I paid a hefty(crazy?) price for a Mopar water pump but didn't want to wait to order from Rock Auto or any of the online Mopar vendors.
The overflow cannister was clearly designed to not ever be cleaned, or to annoy anyone who tries.
2006 LJ. Yellow!
I learned that Jeep dealerships around here have parts departments that are open on Saturday, and can see the inventory of other dealerships. I paid a hefty(crazy?) price for a Mopar water pump but didn't want to wait to order from Rock Auto or any of the online Mopar vendors.
The overflow cannister was clearly designed to not ever be cleaned, or to annoy anyone who tries.
2006 LJ. Yellow!
Got it detailed and then put on a decal.
Modified JT wheels to fit with the small hub kit.
I would gladly pay for a new set of straps for my soft top.