What did you do to your TJ today?

Got some new shoes! Went from nasty old black to some silver moabs

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TheBoogieman said:
Really good and quieter than my old Bestop. If it holds up for a few years, it will be worth the $269. :)
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I've installed three and have been happy with them. However, as I said, mine were always stored in the garage. Even though it's parked in the garage, the tops have seen rain, sleet and snow with no issues.

I originally switched to these, years ago, because someone slashed a window. Bestop wanted more for a single window replacement than I could get an entire top for. Switching was a decision I have not regretted.
 
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Irun said:
I've installed three and have been happy with them. However, as I said, mine were always stored in the garage. Even though it's parked in the garage, the tops have seen rain, sleet and snow with no issues.

I originally switched to these, years ago, because someone slashed a window. Bestop wanted more for a single window replacement than I could get an entire top for. Switching was a decision I have not regretted.
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That's good to know. My 3 year old Bestop windows are still scratch free, I checked prices on them and they sell for around $350 where I looked. Crazy.
 
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Fulton_Hogan said:
Carfax reminded me that it was time to rotate tires. I rotated all five and did the 6-month greasing of all the front end points.

Then I decided I was tired looking at the overstretched and saggy elastic rear window straps so I made a pair of non-stretch ones.

Cut 1-inch (25 mm) wide nylon into strips with a hot knife:

View attachment 320453

Fold the nylon in half and make a hole for the snap:

View attachment 320454

Place the snap's parts on the strap and then onto a setting plate. The domed part of the snap rests in a recess in the black plate, the silver tool is the snap setter. It surrounds the snap and you hit the end of its middle plunger and it rounds the snap's internal stem out and down, setting it in place.

View attachment 320455

Use a hammer to hit the plunger and set the snap:

View attachment 320456

Install on the vehicle:

View attachment 320457

DIY tips:
1. The snaps on my frame sized out as Line 24 snaps. That's the size snaps I used for this project. I can't guarantee that's the same size for all frames, but if it is stock, you should be good to go. Line 20 would have been way too small.

2. If I'm rolling it up, I like my rear window up high. I measured and thought an 11.5-inch strap would work. It did, but just barely. I made a second pair of straps at 12-inches (30.5 cm) and they work just fine. Easy on/off.

3. Last fall I splurged and bought this particular snap setter for my leatherworking. It is a Barry King brand and I bought both Line 24 and Line 20 setters. Today was the first time I'd used either of them, but I wish I'd had them from the beginning. I can't tell you how many snaps I've hit out of line with the usual setters. This one worked perfectly.

Anyway, I'll see how they perform, but I'm not too worried.

If anyone wants the tighter-fitting, but serviceable, trial set of straps, let me know and I'll get them to you for the USPS cost.
Click to expand...
I would also be interested, I can’t recall, do the straps attach to the top by snaps as well?
 
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I can’t remember the brand, but I bought some rear window holder straps that are a heavy webbing type strap with Velcro. They work great.
 
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Fulton_Hogan said:
Carfax reminded me that it was time to rotate tires. I rotated all five and did the 6-month greasing of all the front end points.

Then I decided I was tired looking at the overstretched and saggy elastic rear window straps so I made a pair of non-stretch ones.

Cut 1-inch (25 mm) wide nylon into strips with a hot knife:

View attachment 320453

Fold the nylon in half and make a hole for the snap:

View attachment 320454

Place the snap's parts on the strap and then onto a setting plate. The domed part of the snap rests in a recess in the black plate, the silver tool is the snap setter. It surrounds the snap and you hit the end of its middle plunger and it rounds the snap's internal stem out and down, setting it in place.

View attachment 320455

Use a hammer to hit the plunger and set the snap:

View attachment 320456

Install on the vehicle:

View attachment 320457

DIY tips:
1. The snaps on my frame sized out as Line 24 snaps. That's the size snaps I used for this project. I can't guarantee that's the same size for all frames, but if it is stock, you should be good to go. Line 20 would have been way too small.

2. If I'm rolling it up, I like my rear window up high. I measured and thought an 11.5-inch strap would work. It did, but just barely. I made a second pair of straps at 12-inches (30.5 cm) and they work just fine. Easy on/off.

3. Last fall I splurged and bought this particular snap setter for my leatherworking. It is a Barry King brand and I bought both Line 24 and Line 20 setters. Today was the first time I'd used either of them, but I wish I'd had them from the beginning. I can't tell you how many snaps I've hit out of line with the usual setters. This one worked perfectly.

Anyway, I'll see how they perform, but I'm not too worried.

If anyone wants the tighter-fitting, but serviceable, trial set of straps, let me know and I'll get them to you for the USPS cost.
Click to expand...
Crap, now more tools I need to buy! ;)
 
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Replaced my old worn engine mounts with some Brown Dog mounts and brackets. Pleased with the initial quality, but the coil bracket on my 1998 4.0L had to be massaged a little. The instruction sheet said to flip the bracket over if there was interference, but I tried every which way and if I followed their instructions the coil was touching the alternator. Original coil as far as I know. 🤷‍♂️

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Also started replacing my cracked exhaust manifold with the improved version but of course the gasket was damaged in shipping so waiting on a replacement to finish the install.

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TheBoogieman said:
Why did you replace the stock sub? Looks perfectly fine to me. :unsure:
p.s. Forum Groupthink line is to your left. 👈
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I know I'm about a week late on this but the pointer is pointing to the left side of the people reading that. It's very rare that we have anything to do with the left so I think I fixed your post.

I'd like to figure out a better name for the Forum Groupthink but I'm stuck. All I know is that "Groupthink" is exactly what the leftist want.
 
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Dunkut88TJ said:
I would also be interested, I can’t recall, do the straps attach to the top by snaps as well?
Click to expand...
On my TJ Unlimited these straps snap onto the rearmost bar of the soft top's internal frame.

Thanks! I can do a set for you this week.

If you want to go over to direct message for all the details, that's fine with me.
 
Last edited:
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TheBoogieman said:
Looks so much better! That pic almost makes me wish I hadn't sold my stock Moab wheels. If I could find some 15" with proper backspacing, I'd go that route.
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Thanks! I’ve had this jeep since 2012 and always wanted Moabs. Best looking wheel on a TJ in my opinion. Finally found a good deal and pulled the trigger.
 
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HooDoo said:
How much trouble is it to change unit bearing?
Can I still drive it until fixed?
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Yes you can drive it if the wheel is not just flopping but notice where I corrected my post- Usually a click when you’re turning is your axle U joint- Basically if I ran into either one of those acting up I’m gonna fix it as quick as I can find time

It is not a terribly hard job- I’m trying to remember the process and if you have to remove the stub axle

If you’re doing one you may want to do the other if it has considerable mileage and do both sides
 
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AndyG said:
Yes you can drive it if the wheel is not just flopping but notice where I corrected my post- Usually a click when you’re turning is your axle U joint- Basically if I ran into either one of those acting up I’m gonna fix it as quick as I can find time

It is not a terribly hard job- I’m trying to remember the process and if you have to remove the stub axle

If you’re doing one you may want to do the other if it has considerable mileage and do both sides
Click to expand...
I did both sides on mine in the driveway last fall, and it was a very straightforward job--lots of good Youtube vids. I had both axles out, I think I recall it was necessary.

Plus, you get to relieve some frustration by banging the everlovin' $#!t out of the old u-joints to get them out!
 
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