Recommendations For Stopping Frame Rust

H

Halsey

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Washington
I have a 2003 Sport that I bought last summer in eastern Washington. I’ve been cleaning out the frame this spring. So far I’ve got about a half gallon sized container of rust flakes out of the frame.

So far, I’ve drilled a drain hole in front of the rear lower control arm mount, pressure washed the inside of the frame through all the holes, and used a long flexible magnet to get everything I can out of the frame. I’ve also used the cable/chain flail that is mentioned on another post here to knock more pieces loose.

Also, I’ve done the hammer test to all the problem areas and everything is solid. Frame makes a nice “ding” sound at each spot. The front and rear of the frame look near new when looking at a borescope. The area between the front and rear tires is the problem area.

When I looked at the borescope, I can still see “ledges” of rust stuck to the sides of the frame. The ones I can get to, I’ve used a screwdriver and hammer to knock the pieces off. They’re really stuck solid.

I’m ready to coat the frame at this point, and can’t decide between Eastwoods Internal Frame Coating or Fluid Film. We don’t get a lot of salt on the roads here, and I don’t drive it in the winter time much.

My concern with Eastwoods is trapping rust underneath one of the thick sturdy flakes of rust and letting it continue. My concern with the Fluid Film is accidentally washing it out when I spray the frame out whenever I wash the Jeep.

Thanks for your input, guys. This has been stressing me out for a few weeks while I’ve been verifying the integrity of the frame. I plan on keeping this Jeep for a long time.

68C855A5-4063-4A60-AEF6-7E8736C2270B.jpeg
 
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Also, I should add, the picture is looking through the driver’s frame hole at one of those “ledges” I mentioned. It’s hard to tell in the picture, but the bottom left corner on the far side is a 1/16” rust chunk that is absolutely solid to the frame.

And, I know there’s a lot of cleaning left to do. I plan on getting all the sediment out of the bottom that you can see in the frame before I use either product. Thanks!
 
That jeep didn't come from Eastern Washington did it? That is really rusty for this area..short of a frame swap the eastwood internal frame coating is about the best you can do. I have seen people male a flail connected to a drill and run it inside the frame to get it clean.
 
P man said:
That jeep didn't come from Eastern Washington did it? That is really rusty for this area..short of a frame swap the eastwood internal frame coating is about the best you can do. I have seen people male a flail connected to a drill and run it inside the frame to get it clean.
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You’re correct. When I look at the build sheet, it says it was delivered to New Hampshire. I don’t think it spent too much time there though. The rest of it looks absolutely perfect.
 
Halsey said:
We don’t get a lot of salt on the roads here, and I don’t drive it in the winter time much.
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I've done both. Solely based on this, I'd go Eastwood. The trick there is to do three cans per side.

One can going front to back
One can going back to front
One can split going both ways

Just make sure to wait 24 hours between coats. This lets the material settle and semi-dry. Following the above method helps ensure full coverage Maintenance coverages, one can, semi annually, help keep things in check.

Also, make sure to tape all the frame holes. This crap makes a big mess!

20220109_174623-jpg.301667


Note: If you go FF, you can't go back to Eastwood. If you go Eastwood, you can install FF later, if you feel the need.
 
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Here’s more pictures.
1- passenger frame rail above skid plate. It looks worse in the picture than it does in person I feel like. The missing undercoat around the holes is from me tapping with a hammer and getting rid of the bubbling undercoat.
2 - looking in the hole from the first picture
3- hole next to the tail pipe hanger
4- top view of rust pile
5- side view of rust pile

53FDBF24-47CF-4AF2-BC45-A78CE3565B23.jpeg


E01A8CEE-46C1-4EF6-B452-7D1362358629.jpeg


C7AE91FA-94A9-42A5-8A5F-20C85D000DCF.jpeg


BF9A1318-F180-425B-9FDB-C185111664AB.jpeg


0AB206F2-4DBB-4463-8DB0-43EA18DF74C0.jpeg
 
Rust proof your frame:

Pressure wash (use a high pressure washer not the car wash ) the under side knocking off all of the dirt and loose rust.
Hit all the holes in the frame to try a get the inner frame cleaned out.

Let it dry for a couple of days.

List of stuff needed.

Siphon air gun, here is one (there are plenty out there to buy) the main thing is being able to adjust the spray to a fog pattern.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/42098285

Get a Tyvek coveralls, rubber glove and face shield.

Two gallons of Ospho.
Ospho

Waxoyl
RNW-DIY-4.jpg

Waxoyl Aerosol DIY Kit For Large Chassis RNW-DIY-4 W-DIY-4 | Rovers North - Land Rover Parts and Accessories Since 1979​

Looking to protect your pride and joy, but aren't near a Waxoyl application center? Waxoyl DIY aerosol kits contain everything you need to get the job done without specialty tools or an air compressor. All you will need is a way to get under the vehicle (ramps or jack stands for low vehicles), a...
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www.roversnorth.com

Ten pounds of Baking Soda.

Plastic tarps

Garden Hose with spray nozzle.

Jack Stands and pads to raise the jeep up.

After having let the jeep dry, Raise the jeep up as high a possible giving maximum room to work underneath.

Hook spray gun to compressor using water adjust the spray to a fine fog mist the sprays out about 2 feet this will allow you to get the Ospho up inside the frame with maximum coverage.

Once you have got the spay pattern dry the nozzle by spraying air thru.

With coveralls face mask and gloves on your spray water on the driveway to keep the Opsho from staining the driveway.

Start spraying the inside of the frame just apply so that it is fully coated and dripping out from the frame, once you have the inside done hit the outer frame make sure to get the top of the frame.

Once done spread the baking soda on the ground and use the hose to rinse the drive way off.

After a couple of days you are ready to apply the Waxoyl it is the same process as the Ospho.

Put the tarps down (to keep the driveway clean) then have at with Waxoyl you want it to be dripping out of the inside frame then do the outside.

Give it a day to dry the repeat until you have used all the Waxoyl.

This is not cheap but it will rust proof your frame.
 
JPHikr said:
Rust proof your frame:

Pressure wash (use a high pressure washer not the car wash ) the under side knocking off all of the dirt and loose rust.
Hit all the holes in the frame to try a get the inner frame cleaned out.

Let it dry for a couple of days.

List of stuff needed.

Siphon air gun, here is one (there are plenty out there to buy) the main thing is being able to adjust the spray to a fog pattern.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/42098285

Get a Tyvek coveralls, rubber glove and face shield.

Two gallons of Ospho.
Ospho

Waxoyl
View attachment 329657

Waxoyl Aerosol DIY Kit For Large Chassis RNW-DIY-4 W-DIY-4 | Rovers North - Land Rover Parts and Accessories Since 1979​

Looking to protect your pride and joy, but aren't near a Waxoyl application center? Waxoyl DIY aerosol kits contain everything you need to get the job done without specialty tools or an air compressor. All you will need is a way to get under the vehicle (ramps or jack stands for low vehicles), a...
View attachment 329658 www.roversnorth.com

Ten pounds of Baking Soda.

Plastic tarps

Garden Hose with spray nozzle.

Jack Stands and pads to raise the jeep up.

After having let the jeep dry, Raise the jeep up as high a possible giving maximum room to work underneath.

Hook spray gun to compressor using water adjust the spray to a fine fog mist the sprays out about 2 feet this will allow you to get the Ospho up inside the frame with maximum coverage.

Once you have got the spay pattern dry the nozzle by spraying air thru.

With coveralls face mask and gloves on your spray water on the driveway to keep the Opsho from staining the driveway.

Start spraying the inside of the frame just apply so that it is fully coated and dripping out from the frame, once you have the inside done hit the outer frame make sure to get the top of the frame.

Once done spread the baking soda on the ground and use the hose to rinse the drive way off.

After a couple of days you are ready to apply the Waxoyl it is the same process as the Ospho.

Put the tarps down (to keep the driveway clean) then have at with Waxoyl you want it to be dripping out of the inside frame then do the outside.

Give it a day to dry the repeat until you have used all the Waxoyl.

This is not cheap but it will rust proof your frame.
Click to expand...
I haven’t heard of that stuff. That’s well within the budget of this. Anything is cheaper than patching or replacing the frame. Any worry on the Ospho deteriorating paint?
 
Get some ear plugs and safety glasses/face shield. Take a 2 pound baby sledge and smack every flat surface in your frame. Not hard enough to distort the metal but hard enough to knock the build-up inside the frame loose. Get all those pieces out and then wash the smaller debris out. Repeat as necessary with the hammer and hose. Let it dry thoroughly. Completely saturate the inside of the frame with Eastwood internal frame coating. Probably 2 cans a side. Let that dry most of the way. Spray another can in each side. Let it completely dry. Put a nice coat of black on the outside, your rust prevention paint of choice. Then seasonally spray each side internally with fluid film. Looking at your picture that is about the best your going to be able to do…
 
I would just jeep it clean and keep it washed out. What's done is done. Now that you got the drain holes in, it should be good and not really have any further destruction.
 
at this point i wouldn't bother with a product like eastwoods internal frame coating and just go with an oil based product that can be reapplied every yr.
a product like fluid film can soak into the rusted surface and seep into all the cracks and crevices.

use the 360* spray nozzle and tape it to a straightened out coat hanger so you can insert it and gauge how deep you've treated from each entry point.
 
someguysjeep said:
at this point i wouldn't bother with a product like eastwoods internal frame coating and just go with an oil based product that can be reapplied every yr.
Click to expand...
Someone read my mind about that.

I'll also add that I only wash out my frame once a year, a couple weeks before reapplying my Fluid Film every fall.
 
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Halsey said:
I’m ready to coat the frame at this point, and can’t decide between Eastwoods Internal Frame Coating or Fluid Film. We don’t get a lot of salt on the roads here, and I don’t drive it in the winter time much.

My concern with Eastwoods is trapping rust underneath one of the thick sturdy flakes of rust and letting it continue. My concern with the Fluid Film is accidentally washing it out when I spray the frame out whenever I wash the Jeep.
Click to expand...

Fluid film is not a "done and forget" type of product, it has to be reaplied over time. I do my entire underneath once or twice a year, depends on how much mud i been swimming in. Washing your jeep will not wash it out in one go, think of it as greasy dishes or oily tools, scrub them all you want under water they will still be greasy and oily.
When you spray it in closed space, like inside of frame, you will notice that this stuff is not going anywhere. Just like with any oil on the surface, its worst enemy is nature (direct sun, heat, wind, rain), taking that away prolongs its life on surface. Spill a little oil in your trunk and check on it 5 years later, still there, same concept.

Your concern with Eastwood is valid, i went through the same decision making, and that same concern steered me away from going that rout. In my homeland i have seen plenty of results of so called corrosion proof solutions such as foam, mixtures of butyl/rubber/asphalt adhesive, paints, you name it.. it all fails. It gives you a false sense of accomplishment and security while it attracts and traps moisture inside and consequently does completely opposite from what it advertises.
If i was living somewhere in dry climate like along Mexican border, i would Eastwood inside of my frame without thinking twice. But places that have 4 seasons, salt on roads, humid tropics like Florida or Louisiana, i simply don't see how you can properly do it yourself without it biting you in the ass later on.
 
Has anyone heard of Cosmoline RP342? It's suppose to be a military grade rust preventative product that doesn't wash off like Fluid Film or Woolwax.
 
Wax Oil is what the Brits use to protect the frames of their Series Landrovers. The Land Rover frames are thinner gauge steel than the jeep frame so more prone to fatal rust attack. Not sure what the ingredients are in Wax Oil but there were recipes for home brew that included Bee's Wax. The fairly thin viscosity allows the stuff to thoroughly soak into the all nooks and crannies of the frames internals. The solvents evaporate leaving the wax to seal and preserve the steel. Reapplication is recommended, Rust never sleeps..

If you didn't know there is a cottage industry in Great Britain dedicated to keeping the Series Rovers running for tax reasons and passing their very strict inspection regime. Saving the frames is first on the list to keep the vehicle that tamed Africa running.
 
I've been applying Wool Wax underneath and inside my frame for a few years now.
It seems to be helping.
The hell of it is with any of this stuff it's all just anecdotal evidence, unless someone was willing to only apply it to the passenger side half of their Jeep for 10-15 years so we can see what they end up with in the long run.
 
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SteelJeep said:
Has anyone heard of Cosmoline RP342? It's suppose to be a military grade rust preventative product that doesn't wash off like Fluid Film or Woolwax.
Click to expand...
Best stuff out there assuming you don't have to take it off since it requires a strong solvent to do so. Like fluid film, but with crappy marketing and way better results. Cosmoline is what the military used to use, and what manufacturers STILL use to ship cast iron between locations. And by "between locations" I generally mean from China to the US on a ship. Which means salt air and water. Cast iron rusts faster than anything else, but not with Cosmoline on it.
 
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