It must be a timing issue. 0344 now popped up. Do you have good instructions on how to retime to TDC?
P0340 is back
- Thread starter Rustynj
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It must be a timing issue. 0344 now popped up. Do you have good instructions on how to retime to TDC?
Brier_John
New Member
I am about to go out and look through the harness. The jeep has 239K miles on it, so it could be anything including a stretched chain, I did think about that. The harness seems the easiest to start with though. I am looking for a wiring diagram. I will look through the resource section. Here is one note, when the CEL first comes on, the Cruise Control will not turn on. After I get to work and shut off the Jeep, I come out later to go to lunch and the Cruise Control will turn on again. When I say it will not turn on, I mean that when I press the on/off button the "Cruise" light does not come on and I have no cruise. This only happenes when the CEL light first comes on. This happened Wednesday morning on the way to work. When I got to work, I cycled three times and had only one code, P0340.
Glad to hear your problems are resolved. The 340 and 344 codes can be frustrating. You make a point i.e. a worn-out timing chain and sprockets can make a lot of noise was it slaps the rub strip, something for other to add to the list of maybe's.
Brier_John
New Member
Well, nothing learned. I back tapped the CPS connector in all three pins with KOEO. I tugged, wiggled, pulled, moved and looked all through the harness and ground points and found nothing. The connections never wavered. So, I tried turning the OPDA. It loosened the bolt and rotated clockwise with the engine running and it stalled right away. I put it back and rotated CCW and it seemed to idle a little smoother and slower. I could be imagining it though. Either way, I left it rotated CCW about 5 degrees from where it was and am driving the Jeep. At some point I will have to pull the belt to check the actual timing and set it correctly I guess. The whole thing was unsatisfying.
Brier_John
New Member
I am wondering if there is any trick any of you have to determine if the timing chain is stretched. I cannot use a timing light. I think I will just have to tear into the front of the engine. I don't want to do it though if I can avoid it.
This is how I look for a stretched chain. Set the engine timing at TDC, remove the OPDA, have someone watch the cam for movement while you rotate the crankshaft CV till the cam moves and then CCV until the cam again moves. If you find more than about 2 degrees of slop then you should look at changing the chain and sprockets, it is a easy half day job.
I know the FSM says to never counter-rotate the engine but for the few degrees of rotation needed to determine cam chain condition I have never had any adverse consequences.
This is my timing chain at 230km's and what the new one is compared to it
If you are going to do the work, get all parts delivered, prior to tearing into anything. At the km's you've travelled and after my recent experience of it separating, I'd also replace the harmonic balancer (as you have to remove it anyway) and if you haven't replaced the water pump do that also.
Brier_John
New Member
My hesitancy in diving into this Jeep is that it is new to me. I bought it from a used car dealer who bought it at auction. I can tell that the orginal owner and second owner took care of it. It has Mopar parts and it is very clean. Each time I go in to check, I find new or recent parts. It was dealer serviced. So, I don't really want to waste a weekend only to find someone has already done the work. Thinking this over.
update.
Morphed into an intermittent 0344
Rough start once in a while. 5-8 second cranks to turnover
Once the p0344 light is on I can’t rev over 2500 rpm or it herky jerkys
Not pcm issue. Maybe new cam sensor? Open to ideas
Morphed into an intermittent 0344
Rough start once in a while. 5-8 second cranks to turnover
Once the p0344 light is on I can’t rev over 2500 rpm or it herky jerkys
Not pcm issue. Maybe new cam sensor? Open to ideas
The 2500rpm thing is it going into limp mode. If you turn it off and on again it will go away (but engine light will stay on). If you’ve changed the sensors and had a look for loom issues it’s timing chain.
Mines running perfectly again after years of trying to track down the issue.
Around 4-5 hours all up.
Do the harmonic balancer whilst your in there, maybe a water pump if its been a while.
Do the harmonic balancer whilst your in there, maybe a water pump if its been a while.
Brier_John
New Member
Thanks, I think it is the TC. I also have some tickety lifters. Considering just tearing into it and replacing the cam, lifters, chain...
239K miles. So, maybe just time is up on the chain. I also have a lot of slack in the drive train. a bit of takeup when changing gears (6 speed). It is a project. P0340 came back yesterday.
239K miles. So, maybe just time is up on the chain. I also have a lot of slack in the drive train. a bit of takeup when changing gears (6 speed). It is a project. P0340 came back yesterday.
I am having a lot of the same issues you guys are having and I couldn't figure it out. So I took it to a shop, and they said it was the timing chain as well. I haven't decided if I will do it myself or have them do it yet. Any thoughts on this estimate? Is this reasonable? I saw @Daz7 said it took him about 4-5 hours. Can anyone else weigh in on how hard it is?
JKP
TJ Addict
Holy crap. A cloyes timing chain set is about 75 bucks and the OPDA is around 120 at rockauto.
I did my '92 4.0 and it's not hard at all. If you have a short crank pulley puller, you don't even have to remove the radiator.
As others have stated, it is a good time to replace the water pump if it's questionable, but the water pump does not have to be removed to do the timing set.
If the crank pulley has never been replaced, I would replace it.
You can get the pulley puller as a loaner tool at most auto parts stores if you don't have one.
A seal puller is the best way to get the seal out of the timing cover.
I did my '92 4.0 and it's not hard at all. If you have a short crank pulley puller, you don't even have to remove the radiator.
As others have stated, it is a good time to replace the water pump if it's questionable, but the water pump does not have to be removed to do the timing set.
If the crank pulley has never been replaced, I would replace it.
You can get the pulley puller as a loaner tool at most auto parts stores if you don't have one.
A seal puller is the best way to get the seal out of the timing cover.
If your a home mechanic, Removing and replacing the Radiator gives you more room to do everything worth the 15mins to remove.
It not a hard job, more tedious removing and replacing items and a mechanic would be charging the job out as a whole day just in case.
I'd want to be confident in your own ability if you are DIY'ing. I wouldn't suggest it as your first job.
It not a hard job, more tedious removing and replacing items and a mechanic would be charging the job out as a whole day just in case.
I'd want to be confident in your own ability if you are DIY'ing. I wouldn't suggest it as your first job.
Thanks guys. I feel confidentish lol in my skills but also don’t know if I have the time if things go wrong since this is my daily driver.
Is it normal for this to go bad at 140,000? Feels really early. Just want to make sure this is even the right route.
Does this make sense to you guys. “Checked cam/crank data. Shows they are off by 3 degrees. Removed cam Syncro cover and found that there is excessive play in Syncro. Removed distributer and found that drive gear has been worn down over time and there is excessive play in the timing chain. Can replace timing chain and condition will improve *but if distributor gear is worn too much, DTCs may set in the future*.”
Is it normal for this to go bad at 140,000? Feels really early. Just want to make sure this is even the right route.
Does this make sense to you guys. “Checked cam/crank data. Shows they are off by 3 degrees. Removed cam Syncro cover and found that there is excessive play in Syncro. Removed distributer and found that drive gear has been worn down over time and there is excessive play in the timing chain. Can replace timing chain and condition will improve *but if distributor gear is worn too much, DTCs may set in the future*.”