Advice needed for axle swap / upgrade

Hello,

I’ve combed through a lot of threads and found some of the information I may need, but was somewhat unclear on some others. I apologize if I missed the appropriate thread already.

Here’s my question:

Currently have a 02 sport. 4.0 with manual transmission. Dana 30LP on front and Dana 44 on the rear. I have a 2.5in JKS lift (will eventually go to the MC 3.5 short arm kit next year).

I had planned to install Yukon airzips in the front and rear, regear to 4.56, and truss the front axle.

I found a guy parting out his 03 Rubicon with 89k miles. He’s offering to sell me his front and rear axle, drive shafts, pump actuators, antirock sway bar, and the Tera flex high steer kit that’s currently installed on it.

The price will come out to roughly the same or less to do the Rubi fronts, etc.

My question is: does it make sense to do the Rubi deal? And if I do, will everything pretty much be a straight swap? I know I can wire the pumps up to separate switches. My biggest concern is around the drive shafts. Can I use the stock rubicon drive shafts? Can I use my stock ones? Also, is there anything specific about changing over from my current drum brakes to the rear disk brakes that I’d need to be prepared for?

To upgrade everything I currently have, including labor I’m looking at about $5500-$6000.

For all the rubi axles and mentioned stuff plus delivery to my house, I’m looking at $5300.

Thanks for any advice, feedback or help.

Duck Doctor said:

Driveshafts the guy is selling you won’t work with your 231 transfer case. You will also dislike the rigs performance if the Rubi axles still have stock gearing. Figure $3,000 for driveshafts and a regear.

Do the Rubi axles come with chromoly shafts? If not, add another $1,000.

BTW, the 3.5” MC lift is something you should avoid. PO had that lift installed on my rig and I’m slowing removing all the components. Track bars suck and the single adjustable control arms are a hassle to deal with.

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Thanks for the input. I had read that the driveshaft for the front would need to be shorter. Thought the rubicon shaft may swap over.

I planned on doing the double adjustable MC arms. What other options do you suggest? I don’t plan to do a long arm.

I’m not going to be doing any crazy technical stuff. Plan to MAYBE run 35’s at the largest tire size. The 4.10’s seemed ideal as I could just swap them in and run with it.

jjvw said:

Do you want 5.38 gears? Do you want bad steering?

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No. Planned to do maybe 4.56 or 4.88. Don’t plan on running anything larger than 35’s in the future. I had just read that running a 4.88 in a Dana 30 wasn’t advisable as it’s a really narrow pinion shaft.

jjvw said:

You want 5.13 to push 35s with your transmission. The Dana30 is more than capable for that.

From what you describe, the only reason for Rubicon axles is to get selectable lockers. Which then opens up the discussion of the value of Rubicon lockers. Specifically the rear with its weak LSD.

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I had planned to do the Yukon air lockers if I keep my axles. I guess I was figuring in the price as well, that I could sell my current axles and the Yukon rear locker I already purchased and recoup some money. I only paid $350 for my rear locker new so I could make a few hundred back from selling it. Thought if I could get back a grand from selling the stuff I would be quasi-trail ready for less than $5k. Starting to sound like that may be wrong.

jjvw said:

You want 5.13 to push 35s with your transmission. The Dana30 is more than capable for that.

From what you describe, the only reason for Rubicon axles is to get selectable lockers. Which then opens up the discussion of the value of Rubicon lockers. Specifically the rear with its weak LSD.

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To clarify as well - I planned to do the following to the front: Yukon regear, Yukon air lockers, artec truss from C to C, and teraflex HD ball joints. I was going to run the rubicon express stainless braided air lines and an ARB compressor. Planned to hook everything to my sPod BantamX system.

From what I’m reading, it sounds like it may be better to go with my original plan and scrap the rubicon axle plan. I was under the thought process that having a decent gear ratio, selectable lockers, and (I now have read isn’t true) stronger axle would be an easier option.

Should I look for a high pinion Dana 30 and just have everything installed on it and swapped in?

jjvw said:

You can save money by not wasting it on trusses and replacing the junk Teraflex steering.

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So trussing the Dana 30 isn’t advisable? I thought that part of the issue with the Dana 30 is the thinner axle tubing that can be prone to bending?

Superjay5 said:

I’d regear your axles and see if the guy would sell you the 241 transfer case.

That’s the best path in my opinion

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He said $2500 for the 241

jjvw said:

You are getting a lot of your information from Facebook aren't you?

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No. Just trying to do the most research I can on the internet, YouTube, and forums like this. I understand it may seem like I’m naive, I am newer to the Jeep world. Part of why I am asking these questions is so I can better understand what the best route is. I was advised if I was keeping the Dana 30, then I should consider trussing it by my local Jeep shop.

It seems like you have a lot of knowledge and experience and I appreciate your advice. If you feel like I’m making an uneducated decision here, what would your advice be then?

cpwolf said:

Not trying to bag on the guy, but he’s looking for way too much.

I got Rubicon Axles with 4.88 gears in them, Chromoly shafts Revolution front and G2 rear (I think), and what look like brand new pumps that I wired to my Auxbeam (SPOD knockoff ha) for $4k plus shipping.

I had to buy new Drive Shaft rear and $100 Tom Woods to shorten front.

Brake lines Blaine suggested Dorman extended lines, cheap and effective.

Brakes are an easy line swap rear, I used the same calipers from my TJ so super easy.

Sold my axles for $1,500 and $1,000 because they had 4.10 gears (Dana 30/Dana 35) and fromt had a lunchbox)

They bolt in mostly, but 4.10 is weak for 35’s, I have the 6 speed didn’t want more than 4,88.

Metalcloak joints are not well thought of by many. Johnny Joint equipment can be had for close to the same as Metal Cloak.

Steering, no way I’d do anything but the Currectlync.

Getting Dana 44 front and rear is good, not the end all be all, but the lockers are as solid as others, if you lock them right away. Thread after thread about “don’t kick them after you start a tough obstacle” and you won’t have issues.

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Sounds good. I’ve decided not to get the rubicon axles after reading through this and searching some more on here. I’ll probably just end up regearing, putting in the air lockers, upgrade to chromoly shafts, and look into the Currie steering. Will come out cheaper that way also.