Do you use a stainless leader hose on your OBA?

MikekiM

MikekiM

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2018
Messages
2,618
Location
East of Montauk, NY
I have been using the standard 8mm OD hose that ARB offers and connect using press-to-connect fittings.

On my last trip the hose suffered a heat related failure right after the exit of fitting to the compressor output. Fortunately it failed at the exact moment I reached proper psi on the last tire.

I had the same thing happen on my old compressor installed in my JKs and opted for a braided stainless leader hose at the most vulnerable spot, right after the compressor. I think the hose is a Viair. The down side is that the OD of the braided hose is three times the standard hose which makes routing in the engine bay a challenge. The compressor is mounted on the ABS platform so I'll have to route it along the radiator support on the driver side.

Curious if any of you using the ARB single use a heat resistant leader, what you are using and how/where you route it?
 
Last edited:
Mine has had the black ARB hose routed up the control arm past the engine up to the firewall and straight into the ARB small compressor on the ABS tray for several years and tens of thousands of miles without incident.
 
jjvw said:
Mine has had the black ARB hose routed up the control arm past the engine up to the firewall and straight into the ARB small compressor on the ABS tray for several years and tens of thousands of miles without incident.
Click to expand...
I am going to revisit how I have routed as I repair this.

Akitadog said:
My compressors came with braided hoses on them and one way valves at the ends.
Click to expand...
I started with an inexpensive Max Flo compressor in my JKs that did the job but was bare bones. I added the hose.

The hose I have doesn't have a check valve. What's the purpose? I know it prevents back flow, but I can't see the need while inflating and I purge the pressure afterwards. Maybe for lockers?
 
Last edited:
MikekiM said:
The hose I have doesn't have a check valve. What's the purpose? I know it prevents back flow, but I can't see the need while inflating and I purge the pressure afterwards. Maybe for lockers?
Click to expand...
May be enough slop in the system before the valve that they are using it as an unloader.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikekiM
Was the heat damage from the hose being permanently installed in the engine compartment or from the heat of the compressor during use?
 
MikekiM said:
The hose I have doesn't have a check valve. What's the purpose? I know it prevents back flow, but I can't see the need while inflating and I purge the pressure afterwards.
Click to expand...

I use a check valve even though my system doesn't have a tank to store air. One theory is that a check valve will eliminate back pressure on the compressor piston allowing easier starts w/ lower amp draw and easier running as one approaches the target tire pressure.

plumbing-at-compressor-head-jpg.38610

Check valve shown between brass tee and leader hose. The plugged port
is for future use.


I do not use a leader hose with stainless steel braid. Instead, I purchased a 2' length of Eaton high temperature, high pressure 3/8" rubber hose from my local NAPA. Two advantages are that the user is not limited to commercially available leader hose lengths and the rubber hose does not get as hot to the touch as braided stainless steel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Akitadog and srimes
B1Toad said:
Was the heat damage from the hose being permanently installed in the engine compartment or from the heat of the compressor during use?
Click to expand...
100% from heat from the compressor in use. There is a burst-out hole in the hose just aft of the exhaust fitting on the compressor.

Mr. Bills said:
I use a check valve even though my system doesn't have a tank to store air. One theory is that a check valve will eliminate back pressure on the compressor piston allowing easier starts w/ lower amp draw and easier running as one approaches the target tire pressure.

plumbing-at-compressor-head-jpg.38610

Check valve shown between brass tee and leader hose. The plugged port
is for future use.


I do not use a leader hose with stainless steel braid. Instead, I purchased a 2' length of Eaton high temperature, high pressure 3/8" rubber hose from my local NAPA. Two advantages are that the user is not limited to commercially available leader hose lengths and the rubber hose does not get as hot to the touch as braided stainless steel.
Click to expand...
Outstanding. Thank you.

I am going to mirror what you have done with the brass tee. That will set me up for the second chuck at the rear. I'll check my local stores for the hose. Thank you!!
 
This is good info to know. So far my air up time with the ARB single and my 31s is pretty short so I don't know how hot it gets, plus I have two brass nipples with a tee for my pressure switch that extends the chuck further from the head but just the same I will carry a hose repair kit, it'd be a bummer if the hose burst in BFE. (I kept mine pretty basic with the chuck under the hood)
 
Mr. Bills said:
I use a check valve even though my system doesn't have a tank to store air. One theory is that a check valve will eliminate back pressure on the compressor piston allowing easier starts w/ lower amp draw and easier running as one approaches the target tire pressure.

plumbing-at-compressor-head-jpg.38610

Check valve shown between brass tee and leader hose. The plugged port
is for future use.


I do not use a leader hose with stainless steel braid. Instead, I purchased a 2' length of Eaton high temperature, high pressure 3/8" rubber hose from my local NAPA. Two advantages are that the user is not limited to commercially available leader hose lengths and the rubber hose does not get as hot to the touch as braided stainless steel.
Click to expand...


That brass tee and check valve also work to cool down the air a bit before it hits the rubber hose. This is good practice.

Braided stainless is just rubber with metal reinforcement. Stronger, but won't shed heat much better than regular rubber.

My home compressor has copper tube at the compressor outlet. I haven't mounted my compressor but if I do (and intend to run in with the hood closed) I'll put some amount of metal at the outlet.
cXbTbbOFt4EGDWsQ2mcliA=w1548-h1161-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
For my TJ's OBA (York compressor based) I used a Goodyear High Temperature hose I found at a hydraulic hose shop. It held up well for years. You can't use a standard air hose, it'll blow from the high temperature of the air coming out of a compressor.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Akitadog
srimes said:
That brass tee and check valve also work to cool down the air a bit before it hits the rubber hose. This is good practice.

Braided stainless is just rubber with metal reinforcement. Stronger, but won't shed heat much better than regular rubber.

My home compressor has copper tube at the compressor outlet. I haven't mounted my compressor but if I do (and intend to run in with the hood closed) I'll put some amount of metal at the outlet.
View attachment 424714
Click to expand...
My home compressor has the same.

I skipped the stainless hose and rebuilt it with a short piece of copper tubing.
cliffish said:
Mike I bet Moreland hose on Sunrise Hgwy in Oakdale will have what you need.

https://www.morelandhose.com/
Click to expand...
99% sure that’s where I bought the braided stainless leader I have…. Maybe ten years ago..
 
  • Like
Reactions: srimes
srimes said:
Braided stainless is just rubber with metal reinforcement. Stronger, but won't shed heat much better than regular rubber.
Click to expand...

Not mine. I bought PTFE (Teflon) lined stainless braided -8 (1/2") hose and put aluminum AN fittings on the ends. The Teflon liner can take 400°F operating temps and the hose is rated at 2000 psi working pressure (although I doubt it can take both extremes simultaneously.) I think this is what ORO supplies in the old Kilby kit they sell.
 
  • Like
Reactions: srimes
Top Bottom
Back