It needs nothing LJ

rjaym

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
112
Location
San Jose
It needs nothing!

That was the comment to my wife when I decided to buy this ’04 LJ and sell my Trackick – (Full disclosure – I said the same thing when I bought the ‘kick a couple years back and commenced to take it apart and put it back together – “better”. As a few of you may know, I ran the Rubicon last year in the trackick on 31” tires – no damage or winch use. If you ever want to build a low budget, but capable rig, that is great on the road and off, I suggest a trackick (geo tracker or Suzuki sidekick pre 1995.) ….anyway, back to the LJ.

Bought from 2nd owner with 62K on the clock – both owners were retired folks. Seems the original owner wished he had ordered a Rubicon. Receipts that came with the rig show a factory new 241 TC and dana 44 front along with 4:56 gears /true trac LSD front and rear were purchased and installed not long after it was driven off the lot. Then a ProComp 4” lift ,warn winch /bumpers/sliders/ skids. Apparently, a vacation was planned as a genright 31 gal safari tank and safari roof rack were done up nicely as well. To make it sweet, a set of AMP research E steps were installed along with Tuffy storage drawer.

The jeep was driven very little (obviously) and was then sold to 2nd owner in 2018. It was always garaged and the new owner did same. Owner 2 decided the garage space was more valuable than a jeep and that’s how I ended up with a pampered LJ -that needs nothing.

I had fitted my trackick with a sleep platform so I could sleep inside it (yes I can sleep comfortably inside a 2 door ‘kick tin top – (I’m 5”8) So I wanted to fit the LJ same – and figured it could sleep 2 if done right. A pic is my first iteration – a scrap pc of plywood, a vise grip and a scrap pc of 2x2 screwed to the plywood to act a leg is seen here. A pinnacle of craftsmanship!

This was used for a couple trips to Corral Hollow Ca. , Hiway 4 area. Just to see how the rig runs. All good! Needs nothing! ..except for a better sleep platform. Rev. 2 was a folding platform so I could at least have a passenger along (of course he /she would be required to sleep outside on any overnight trip.) That worked well for a Moab via Sand Hollow trip but a bit of a pain to set up with bracing etc. -it was basically a drop leaf table design. The AMP steps were removed and sold to raise capital (aka, buy more stuff!)

The LJ performed well on/off road on the trip. We ran poison spider /golden spike /rusty nail along with few other side trips – I felt the suspension could use “something” but having never owned a jeep, I wasn’t sure if this was as good as it gets or it needs “something”. It certainly isn’t as smooth or planted as the ‘kick. After the Moab trip I did some research and thinking about what I really wanted here. I still had the trackick and not trying real hard to sell it – so I did a couple more trips in the ‘kick -The last being a flat tow down to Anza Borrego park to run the Pinyon trail with a few jeep folks – “the squeeze” obstacle on this trail is not an “obstacle” for the ‘kick ——-heart attack hill on the other hand – well…. a bit sketchy at the top, but being on 3 wheels is kind of a trackick trademark! I sold the ’kick on that trip to a good home in SoCal. So now I have capital for something that needs nothing.

I decided, (reluctantly) – that removing the Tuffy Drawer / back seat and its brackets from the LJ was nec for a proper platform. This allows me space under the platform for storage, as well as still having open floor space directly behind the front seats. My intention was to put heavier “stuff” either over the rear axle or ahead it. The pics attached is what I came up with. A twin compressor/ a lipo battery with isolator/ a drawer fridge and a rollout drawer for my recovery gear/tools -all packaged in an aluminum extrusion frame that can be removed quickly /easily and replaced with the backseat if I need it. It was important to me that this unit would be secure in the event of a roll over. 2 triangular brackets anchor the framework using the wheel well seatbelt mounts and the 2 factory “strap brackets” hold it at the rear. The extending platform is held with a single “knob” that threads into the extrusion. I haven’t overnighted on it yet, but I admit I did take more than 1 “cat nap” on it instead of mowing the lawn.

Tires /lift: At 1 point the PO did have 35” tires on it and the speedo was calibrated as such – the PO felt it was too tall to get in/out of and swapped in a set of cooper AT3 33” tires. Of course, the speedo says I’m doing 80 when I’m actually going much slower. Rather than fix the speedo I decided to get 35” tires.

I bought 5 KM3s to mount on to the 15” weld wheels. I was considering new beadlock wheels until I saw the price! I searched for some used 15” with no luck -seems to be a bit rare -at least they eluded me during my months of search. I believe the 15” wheel has more pluses than minuses for the LJ /4.0/AT and my usage. The trackick build provided very good lessons in weight (sprung/unsprung) contact patch ( rim diameter VS tire diameter) etc. But I was concerned about airing down a big tire on a smallish rim. I did some digging and found the Coyote “internal” beadlocks may be satisfy my needs. I contacted Harry L. the proprietor of Coyote to learn more and hopefully he /Jenna could offer a shop near me to do the install. (For those that are not familiar with Harry Lewellyn and his off-road experience a simple google search would be worth a read.)

I was comfortable with drilling the extra hole in my wheels and fitting the BL in place, but I had never mounted a tire on rim (or removed 1). Somehow, Harry convinced me that I could do it myself – He’s done it countless times – in the shop, in the field, wherever. I thought, hell, if Harry can do it, then I can do it too. I just needed a few tools, time, and initiative. Saving money is always a motivator for me and after talking to a few tires shops in my area -it was clear if I wanted this done, it was going to be DIY.

If you’ve never mounted a 70lb tire onto an aluminum wheel I suggest either practice on a smaller tire/wheel or have someone that has had the experience and the tools help you. I CANNOT suggest a technique /a tool or advice -as clearly I did it wrong and if I was tasked with doing it in the field using a tree branch and rock I would likely die before the job was done. I was seriously tempted to drive down to Harrys shop and get a lesson, as it would probably would be a worthy skill to have on the trail. Remarkedly, the nearly impossible step for me was getting the first bead of the tire ONTO the rim. In the tire mounting world, this is considered the easiest step. i.e. - Get the tire bead in the “well “of the rim and work it around -/lube/push /bounce/jump/pry and it will “pop” on. Nope…..not for this guy. I struggled for almost an hour on each tire until it “popped” on. I didn’t ruin the wheels but I did have to deburr /smooth /polish a couple areas that were damaged/scuffed by the tire irons. I gave up on the 4th tire – it just wouldn’t happen – I was defeated. That tire will go to the tire shop for the 1 bead mount up. Took a whole 2 minutes and a $5 bill to get it done. Once back at home, the tire was bead locked/second bead set and inflated in less than an hour. Balancing seemed to go fine albeit a generous amount of weights were added to the wheel in 1 spot. The seam of the BL must be 180’ from the valve stem(s) to optimize the balancing – apparently weights still need to be added for a good rotational balance. So far, no issues.

I’ll drive the LJ “as is” for a time, while considering my next “need”. I have a savvy mid arm kit sitting here along with savvy BL and MML as well as a savvy tummy tuck skid. Revo. 5:38 gears lockers and axles all taking up space. Of course, those are big projects and will need to be scheduled and well thought out before I begin. I’m trying to convince myself to stick with this rig long enough to see it through all these plans but if history is any indication…….

just bought.JPG

front underview.jpeg

front view.jpeg

just bought.JPG

front underview.jpeg

front view.jpeg

interior 1.jpeg

first gen platform set up.JPG

first gen platfrom sleep set up.JPG

platform bits with wiring.JPG

rearview with light on.JPG

sleep platform 1.jpeg
 
Looks like a fantastic start to a great build 👍

I have a savvy mid arm kit sitting here along with savvy BL and MML as well as a savvy tummy tuck skid. Revo. 5:38 gears lockers and axles all taking up space.

Dang, that’s quite the handful of parts to just have “taking up space”

If you ever need someone to help clean out some storage space, you know where to find me 🙃
 
Happy Independence Day all! Take a moment today to reflect on just how young the USA is. ( I’m regularly reminded by my Brit coworkers that England has pubs older than USA). Yet, we have accomplished so much. God bless America and may God bless the Jeeps that helped make it what it is today!
PNW LJ As for my stash of parts, I will certainly let you know! I scour the FS ads searching for deals everyday. I seem to consider my time pretty cheap as I’ll drive hours to save a couple hundred $. Then sell a project car only to get another. This rig is supposed to be my retirement therapy. I’m accumulating parts while still working ( ie can afford them) but little time to install them.
 
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Got 5:38 /e locker rear and Detroit front done along with chromo axles. Naturally with copious amounts of drama. The removed 4:56 gears are in xlnt cond and have less than 50k miles on them- if anyone is interested. The truc trac has same miles - looks like new - these are beautifully machined diffs. The front obviously has nearly no miles on it - probably less than 5k as this rig has warn front hubs. I was told the front was also tru trac but it isn’t - damned if I know but it doesn’t appear “ open”
Here’s a pic -
The drama came with the driveshaft. I decided to rebuild the double carden joint and ended up bending the centering pin. That then required a trip to the DS shop, that in turn took me to the cleaners.
Installed the DS and now I have a vibration ( mild ) at about 70mph ( using gps as Speedo of course says 82! - I also believe the DS is too short - only about 1/4” from max extension at static. So another fleecing of my wallet is coming. I have trip planned to coyote flats / kavanahh ridge next week. ( missed the trip to slick rock due to this nonsense last week)

IMG_8067.jpeg
 
Installed 12oclock labs speedo corrector today - obviously a simple job and really simple to program. Speedo is spot on with gps now. If anyone is considering this fix - this product is effective ,simple and US made.
 
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Well, retirement came to me 12/21/23. Along with a few trips and goofing off with my 2 y/o granddaughter I have put the jeep in the garage for a bit more tinkering.

BUMPER

First effort was removing the swing out tire carrier from the bumper (WARN model). It works well but a bit of a hassle if you're accessing the back of the rig regularly. My plan was to remove the swing tire mount and keep the bumper. I replaced swing carrier with a HD hinge/gate reinforcement and weird tire mount. Weird, because its actually a mount used for mounting the tire on a roof rack (whoever is the guy that can get a 35" tire on the roof of a jeep is a Hulk and has my full respect!) I was hoping to use a stock mount and spacers for the "snubbers" as I had purchased these items while employed. Well, that didn't fit up to my liking - the tire was quite far from the tailgate and sat very high.

Before fabbing my own, I searched the web and found this: Smitty D8545 tire mount for $35 on amazon – no idea why it was so cheap but I couldn’t buy the material for that price. I made a couple brackets to align it vertically and being a 2 pc design it was easy to get the tire up close the tailgate. Once fitted I’ll weld it together to get rid of all the fasteners. I thought I was done….. (FYI -I had purchased a used JCR bumper last year but thought it would be heavier than the WARN/swing gate)… After removing the tire swing section, I realized how heavy just that part was – maybe the JCR isn’t heavier? I decided to pull the WARN bumper and weigh it VS the JCR. YEP the JCR is lighter than the WARN assembly – actually the HD gate / hinge and JCR bumper is about 1 lb lighter than the WARN set up. Negligible. The bonus is, I now have a hitch receiver and the step/well in the bumper allows the spare (when I carry 1) to sit lower than with the WARN. Lucky I didn’t weld up that tire mount as I had to adjust it for the JCR bumper. I did have to make a nut plate that fits inside the frame to attach the bumper side brackets – the guy I bought the bumper from drilled through the frame and used long bolts with nuts on inboard side of frame rail – that was too tight to my tank clearance.

I printed some spacers for the snubbers to allow a perfect fit/load to the spare – keeping the spare as close as possible to the tailgate will hopefully minimize the stress. The JCR has provisions for auxiliary lighting – a little patients and 2ea nice 3” square lights showed up on CL for a song (as new -apparently they didn’t fit the guys FJ40 placement – win!!.) I printed some riser blocks with alignment slots to fit these into the bumper. Bumper done!

goofy tire mount on gate.JPG


nut tab for rear bumper side mount.JPG


blocks for mounting rear lighhts.JPG
 
MML/BL

Last year I bought the brown dog MML from a fellow member – never installed but they had the poly bushing – I purchased the rubber bushings and installed the MML – These did add a bit of increased vibration at idle -not unbearable but I think I’ll swap these for the riser block and stock mounts. You’ll see the brown dog FS on the forum eventually. The BL was straight forward – I am fortunate to have a west coast rig (no rust) – after seeing pics /vids of guys removing rusty/crusted bolts under their rigs I realized how good of condition this rig is.

After the BL was installed, I realized the rear looked odd with the gap between the bumper and body. Its one of those things that you don’t see until its pointed out – I never noticed it on other jeeps until I did my own BL. I decided to make a “valance” to fill the gap – of course, that requires the bumper to be removed! ☹

I used 2” x 1/4” thk aluminum bar stock for the valance – c/sink for flat head screws and used existing holes below the tailgate to mount it. I used a generic silver auto paint rattle can to paint it – close enough of a match for what it is – naturally I had to mill a couple steps in the ends to allow clearance for the roof rack mounting tabs (the rack is not on the jeep -its used only as needed/rarely) – all sorted now.

preppiong for valance.JPG


valance installed no bumper.JPG


view of tire to bumper fitment.JPG


view of complete bumper lights tire.JPG
 
Demco stay and play brake controller.

My intention all along was to flat tow the LJ behind my dodge cummins/four wheel camper. I flat towed the jeep once already and of course the CTD has the power but quick stops didn’t leave me with much confidence. I decided to install a permanent type tow brake system because I knew I wouldn’t want to hassle with the portable type in the field. The Demco unit seemed to be the go-to. I found a nice used 1x unit on FB for 50% new – grateful the guy kept the original box /manual even the receipt! He did an xlnt job removing it from his car (clearly, he knew he was going to sell it after his relocation) I mounted the pump on the plate (abs unit if equipped?) just below the booster – I removed the plate to get the layout right then reinstalled. I drilled 1 new hole in the fire wall where I believe clutch bits may be placed, if so equipped. The vacuum line and wires go thru this point. Using a heat gun I gently heated some semi rigid non metallic vacuum line and bent it in a shape to at least suggest an effort was made to make it look like it belonged there.

The switch is mounted to the driver side kick panel. I was nervous about having a dead battery once at the trail so I powered the system with my “house” LiPo battery that also powers the fridge and compressor. A tattle tale LED is mounted to the backside of the rear-view mirror so I can see if/when the jeep brakes are activated – this LED is hot thru the Demco and grounded with the brake pedal – so it only lights when the Demco is “hot” – Its nice to know the brakes are NOT “on” as much as when they are.

Demco stay play box.jpegDemco controller in cab.jpegLED on back of mirror.jpeg
 
Savvy belly up

Next up – belly up!

I bought the belly up and the mid arm just before the “has savvy off road been sold? drama”. I actually bought the belly up/skid from a fellow member that had never opened the box. Too bad, because the skid wasn’t for an 04 LJU auto. The good news Savvy was there to help me out – I got the right parts in a couple weeks and the install was pretty straight forward albeit getting under and out from under a jeep countless times in a day, does wear on an old dude. I did have the well documented interference between the TC and the tub, but a pry bar and floor jack got-er done. Surprisingly the exhaust wasn’t an issue – that will come when the midarm work happens. I won’t be installing the skid itself or the savvy engine skid yet as they will be in the way of the mid arm work.

savvy TC crossmember installed.jpegsavvy TC mount.jpegside view of savvy crossmember installed.jpeg
 
Trans temp gauge and new pan

This is the first auto trans vehicle I have owned – I know nothing about them. I will say they do make technical trails a bit less technical VS a manual. I don’t like them (at least this one) as they can overheat and the jeep doesn’t tell you until I assume the damage is done or about to be done (CEL) – I elected to install a gauge and a new pan. I bought a gauge from a fellow member (@MikeE024) that was used for a short time on his turbo’d rig and had Blaine silver braze a bung in the pan.

I was gonna try my hand at welding it up (I have a TIG welder) but for the price and turnaround time I figured the braze fee is a no brainer. I drilled a small hole and added a grommet in the tunnel for the sender wire to pass thru and mounted the gauge just in front of the TC shifter. I considered an A pillar gauge pod and even printed up a gauge pod to mount on dash near the A pillar but it all seemed a bit over kill for a trans temp gauge so I elected for the “normal” spot.

I did alter the mount a bit by adding a wedge spacer behind the gauge to allow a suitable viewing angle – the gauge is now tilted “up” more than without the spacer. This is similar to the “boat type” gauge mounts / bezels you see on speed boats – this one is thin, as the space is limited. Naturally the mounting bracket needs same angle to seat the gauge

modded trans temp clamp.JPGTC cable shift and Temp sender clamps.jpegtemp sender installed.jpegtrans gage clamp in lathe.jpegtrans temp wedge  installed.JPGwedge for trans gage done.jpegtrans gage side view installed.jpegtrans temp gage installed.jpeg
 
Springs and Shocks

The PO bought the jeep with a dealer installed 4” pro comp lift. Having nothing to compare it to it seems acceptable to me – The kit is 4 springs /shocks /arms etc with a 2” spacer in the back. I didn’t realize it was a spacer until looking at pics and reading here about spring length. I concluded that a proper spring lift would be better off road than the spacer. With the 1.25” body lift and this pro comp lift I have to say the rig was just too tall for decent ingress/egress. I don’t have step/sliders mounted yet but I still felt it was too tall. I did some searching and with patience a pair of near new rockjock 9131 rh1 springs came up for a sweet price and a few months later I found front rockjock 9132 F1 in like condition, these came with a pair of rear 9133 if anyone is interested in buying, I won’t be needing them.
I may end up going to a taller spring in the future but I think these fit my needs at the moment. Feel free to comment!
The shocks I also found on FB. After searching for what seemed forever these came up:
Fox 985 24 108 and 985 24 113. These have the remote res. with adjuster knob.
I’m at the point now that the mid arm is next and am waffling to hold off until after I run the rubicon in June with this set up and then run it again after the mid arm just to appreciate (?) the difference – a back-to-back comparison.

front and rear fox shocks.jpegfront spring installed 3in.JPGrear spring 3.5 lift.jpeg
 
Trans temp gauge and new pan

This is the first auto trans vehicle I have owned – I know nothing about them. I will say they do make technical trails a bit less technical VS a manual. I don’t like them (at least this one) as they can overheat and the jeep doesn’t tell you until I assume the damage is done or about to be done (CEL) – I elected to install a gauge and a new pan. I bought a gauge from a fellow member (@MikeE024) that was used for a short time on his turbo’d rig and had Blaine silver braze a bung in the pan.

I was gonna try my hand at welding it up (I have a TIG welder) but for the price and turnaround time I figured the braze fee is a no brainer. I drilled a small hole and added a grommet in the tunnel for the sender wire to pass thru and mounted the gauge just in front of the TC shifter. I considered an A pillar gauge pod and even printed up a gauge pod to mount on dash near the A pillar but it all seemed a bit over kill for a trans temp gauge so I elected for the “normal” spot.

I did alter the mount a bit by adding a wedge spacer behind the gauge to allow a suitable viewing angle – the gauge is now tilted “up” more than without the spacer. This is similar to the “boat type” gauge mounts / bezels you see on speed boats – this one is thin, as the space is limited. Naturally the mounting bracket needs same angle to seat the gauge

View attachment 524235View attachment 524236View attachment 524237View attachment 524238View attachment 524239View attachment 524240View attachment 524241View attachment 524242

Nice work man it looks great :)
 
Springs and Shocks

The PO bought the jeep with a dealer installed 4” pro comp lift. Having nothing to compare it to it seems acceptable to me – The kit is 4 springs /shocks /arms etc with a 2” spacer in the back. I didn’t realize it was a spacer until looking at pics and reading here about spring length. I concluded that a proper spring lift would be better off road than the spacer. With the 1.25” body lift and this pro comp lift I have to say the rig was just too tall for decent ingress/egress. I don’t have step/sliders mounted yet but I still felt it was too tall. I did some searching and with patience a pair of near new rockjock 9131 rh1 springs came up for a sweet price and a few months later I found front rockjock 9132 F1 in like condition, these came with a pair of rear 9133 if anyone is interested in buying, I won’t be needing them.
I may end up going to a taller spring in the future but I think these fit my needs at the moment. Feel free to comment!
The shocks I also found on FB. After searching for what seemed forever these came up:
Fox 985 24 108 and 985 24 113. These have the remote res. with adjuster knob.
I’m at the point now that the mid arm is next and am waffling to hold off until after I run the rubicon in June with this set up and then run it again after the mid arm just to appreciate (?) the difference – a back-to-back comparison.

View attachment 524244View attachment 524245View attachment 524246

While I can definitely understand the temptation to get everything done before the Rubicon, I think you'll appreciate the benefits of the mid arm more if you can compare to how it did without it.
 
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Springs and Shocks

The PO bought the jeep with a dealer installed 4” pro comp lift. Having nothing to compare it to it seems acceptable to me – The kit is 4 springs /shocks /arms etc with a 2” spacer in the back. I didn’t realize it was a spacer until looking at pics and reading here about spring length. I concluded that a proper spring lift would be better off road than the spacer. With the 1.25” body lift and this pro comp lift I have to say the rig was just too tall for decent ingress/egress. I don’t have step/sliders mounted yet but I still felt it was too tall. I did some searching and with patience a pair of near new rockjock 9131 rh1 springs came up for a sweet price and a few months later I found front rockjock 9132 F1 in like condition, these came with a pair of rear 9133 if anyone is interested in buying, I won’t be needing them.
I may end up going to a taller spring in the future but I think these fit my needs at the moment. Feel free to comment!
The shocks I also found on FB. After searching for what seemed forever these came up:
Fox 985 24 108 and 985 24 113. These have the remote res. with adjuster knob.
I’m at the point now that the mid arm is next and am waffling to hold off until after I run the rubicon in June with this set up and then run it again after the mid arm just to appreciate (?) the difference – a back-to-back comparison.

View attachment 524244View attachment 524245View attachment 524246

Are the springs you're selling the 3" lift for the TJ?