Locker Pump Replacement cover

TJ Rubicus

TJ Rubicus

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
170
Location
Wiarton, Ontario
Hello All
I just noticed that the cover is missing from my rear locker pump. It looks like it is approximately 2 inches square. 2005 rubicon. Anyone know where to purchase a replacement cover? I'm not haveing much luck in finding a replacement cover and currently have a plastic bag over it for some protection. TIA
Jim

IMG_3026.JPG
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
You probably won't find just a cover. You may find a broken pump that you can pull the cover from. If that doesn't work you might have to fabricate a cover out of polycarbonate or the like.
I'd certainly move the locker pumps under the hood for protection and have individual control of each axle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford and TJ Rubicus
flyinfish said:
You probably won't find just a cover. You may find a broken pump that you can pull the cover from. If that doesn't work you might have to fabricate a cover out of polycarbonate or the like.
I'd certainly move the locker pumps under the hood for protection and have individual control of each axle.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply .... is it much of a job to relocate the pumps. You are probably right about fabbing a new cover.
 
Easy if you can wire a simple switch. I have my switches in my SPOD unit above my rear view mirror.

@Jerry Bransford has a picture of his toggle switches that I'm sure he will share.

The pumps just need the hoses routed to the new pump location and wired up.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: TJ Rubicus
I relocated my pumps using the original pump bracket and affixed to the top of fender well. I also used the locker plugs I cut off to plug back into their original location on skid to keep the plugs clean. I used adhesive lined heat shrink on the wires.
Lastly I used two deutsch plug connectors to rewire each pump.

20210126_114837.jpg


20210202_103954.jpg
 
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: Jerry Bransford, TJ Rubicus and John Cooper
flyinfish said:
I relocated my pumps using the original pump bracket and affixed to the top of fender well. I also used the locker plugs I cut off to plug back into their original location on skid to keep the plugs clean. I used adhesive lined heat shrink on the wires.
Lastly I used two deutsch plug connectors to rewire each pump.

View attachment 455418

View attachment 455419
Click to expand...


That is a nice clean looking installation. Are the original vacuum lines long enough to reroute or did you replace them with new?
 
TJ Rubicus said:
Thanks for the reply .... is it much of a job to relocate the pumps. You are probably right about fabbing a new cover.
Click to expand...
Not difficult at all, I moved mine together with their mounting bracket into the engine compartment adjacent to the driver's side fender. The mounting bracket just needed a little trimming of extra length and some aluminum stand-off spacers to hold it up just off the fender.

Wiring it involves a decision on your part. If you want to keep using the original locker switch you're going to have to cut the old wiring under the transfer case and splice an extension/new wiring in between the original wiring and the compressors you moved into the engine compartment. Matching the colors of the wiring doesn't require you use the same color wiring, just that the extension connects the same colors together. Crimp splices covered by heat shrinkable tubing is better than soldering the new wiring in.

What I did and recommend is to not continue using the OEM locker switch, just wire your own pair of locker switches. One for the rear and one for the front locker. Its locker logic requiring that the rear locker has to be locked before engaging the front locker irritated me. Same with having to be in 4Lo, since once in a while I'd need to be driving in 4Hi through deep sand which meant I couldn't use my lockers.

Wiring the compressors is no more difficult than wiring a light bulb with a simple good quality medium to heavy duty on-off toggle switch. The compressor doesn't draw enough power to warrant anything more than a light duty switch but most of those are too fragile and not dependable enough for offroad use. I added a 5 amp fuse in both locker circuits. The compressor has 3 wires but only two are needed to turn it off & on, ground and power.

This is how I did mine, and I hesitate even showing my underhood compressor installation because it pales in comparison to Flinfish's magnificent job above. Then again this photo shows it years after I installed it so pay no attention to its filthiness which reflects the general condition of my TJ lol.

You'll need new rubber air and vent (intake) line hoses, just match a piece of the old hoses with one from your local auto parts or hardware store. And its a pressure hose not a vacuum hose. Your lockers operate off the 5 psi produced by the compressors. :)

LockerCompressors.jpg


Locker Switches.jpg


Locker-Switches.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ Rubicus and flyinfish
Jerry Bransford said:
Not difficult at all, I moved mine together with their mounting bracket into the engine compartment adjacent to the driver's side fender. The mounting bracket just needed a little trimming of extra length and some aluminum stand-off spacers to hold it up just off the fender.

Wiring it involves a decision on your part. If you want to keep using the original locker switch you're going to have to cut the old wiring under the transfer case and splice an extension/new wiring in between the original wiring and the compressors you moved into the engine compartment. Matching the colors of the wiring doesn't require you use the same color wiring, just that the extension connects the same colors together. Crimp splices covered by heat shrinkable tubing is better than soldering the new wiring in.

What I did and recommend is to not continue using the OEM locker switch, just wire your own pair of locker switches. One for the rear and one for the front locker. Its locker logic requiring that the rear locker has to be locked before engaging the front locker irritated me. Same with having to be in 4Lo, since once in a while I'd need to be driving in 4Hi through deep sand which meant I couldn't use my lockers.

Wiring the compressors is no more difficult than wiring a light bulb with a simple good quality medium to heavy duty on-off toggle switch. The compressor doesn't draw enough power to warrant anything more than a light duty switch but most of those are too fragile and not dependable enough for offroad use. I added a 5 amp fuse in both locker circuits. The compressor has 3 wires but only two are needed to turn it off & on, ground and power.

This is how I did mine, and I hesitate even showing my underhood compressor installation because it pales in comparison to Flinfish's magnificent job above. Then again this photo shows it years after I installed it so pay no attention to its filthiness which reflects the general condition of my TJ lol.

You'll need new rubber air and vent (intake) line hoses, just match a piece of the old hoses with one from your local auto parts or hardware store. And its a pressure hose not a vacuum hose. Your lockers operate off the 5 psi produced by the compressors. :)

View attachment 455466

View attachment 455468

View attachment 455467
Click to expand...

Excellent roadmap for TJ Rubicus and others. Thx Jerry!
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Not difficult at all, I moved mine together with their mounting bracket into the engine compartment adjacent to the driver's side fender. The mounting bracket just needed a little trimming of extra length and some aluminum stand-off spacers to hold it up just off the fender.

Wiring it involves a decision on your part. If you want to keep using the original locker switch you're going to have to cut the old wiring under the transfer case and splice an extension/new wiring in between the original wiring and the compressors you moved into the engine compartment. Matching the colors of the wiring doesn't require you use the same color wiring, just that the extension connects the same colors together. Crimp splices covered by heat shrinkable tubing is better than soldering the new wiring in.

What I did and recommend is to not continue using the OEM locker switch, just wire your own pair of locker switches. One for the rear and one for the front locker. Its locker logic requiring that the rear locker has to be locked before engaging the front locker irritated me. Same with having to be in 4Lo, since once in a while I'd need to be driving in 4Hi through deep sand which meant I couldn't use my lockers.

Wiring the compressors is no more difficult than wiring a light bulb with a simple good quality medium to heavy duty on-off toggle switch. The compressor doesn't draw enough power to warrant anything more than a light duty switch but most of those are too fragile and not dependable enough for offroad use. I added a 5 amp fuse in both locker circuits. The compressor has 3 wires but only two are needed to turn it off & on, ground and power.

This is how I did mine, and I hesitate even showing my underhood compressor installation because it pales in comparison to Flinfish's magnificent job above. Then again this photo shows it years after I installed it so pay no attention to its filthiness which reflects the general condition of my TJ lol.

You'll need new rubber air and vent (intake) line hoses, just match a piece of the old hoses with one from your local auto parts or hardware store. And its a pressure hose not a vacuum hose. Your lockers operate off the 5 psi produced by the compressors. :)

View attachment 455466

View attachment 455468

View attachment 455467
Click to expand...
Thanks for the guidance and the visuals Jerry. Looks like a nice tidy installation as well. Appreciate your time and thorough explanation. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
TJ Rubicus said:
Thanks for the reply .... is it much of a job to relocate the pumps. You are probably right about fabbing a new cover.
Click to expand...

Fabbed up a new cover out of a piece of an old chevy fan shroud. Its about 1/8" thick, so it should do the trick. Put it on with a good silicon/sealer/adhesive. Its not pretty but it should be effective.

IMG_3092.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: flyinfish and Jerry Bransford
Top Bottom
Back