Is this amount of play in my front driveshaft normal?

Mac, Don't doubt your experience with the Ridgid tools you got and also don't think the 175 5 star reviews on the Ridgid impact are all fake. Guess I'll find out.

I've abused the living snot out of two Ridgid aka Emerson shop vacs...they basics pay someone else to make their stuff...and Home Depot has excellent customer service...just took my 13/16 Husky racheting box wrench in and they just handed me another. I think I've owned a couple of Rigid corded drills over the years...both died very very quickly...both were I have to get this job done for a customer so I'm buying a tool purchase.

You'll probably be just fine!

-Mac
 
Ok, here's an update. Went and bought a Bauer ½" impact and was able to zip the nut right off. Replaced the seal and buttoned everything back up, got the nut back on with my marks all aligned, same number of exposed threads, thought all was well... Took it for a test drive and I've got a drive line vibration that starts around 55 mph now.

Drove home and pulled the front drive shaft and took it for another spin and no vibes.

Any ideas on what I might've done wrong to cause this vibration?
 
Did you clock the front driveshaft when you pulled it? Mark exactly which cap was where?

Try unbolting the front driveshaft from the pinion and rotating it 180 degrees.

-Mac
 
Did you clock the front driveshaft when you pulled it? Mark exactly which cap was where?

Try unbolting the front driveshaft from the pinion and rotating it 180 degrees.

-Mac

I found that the u joint wasn't perfectly seated into the yoke. The more I messed with the u joint the more I noticed how worn it was, so this is now morphing into a replacement of the front driveshaft u joints as well. Spicer 5-1310-1x's on the way. 👍
 
I found that the u joint wasn't perfectly seated into the yoke. The more I messed with the u joint the more I noticed how worn it was, so this is now morphing into a replacement of the front driveshaft u joints as well. Spicer 5-1310-1x's on the way. 👍

Similar issues...I rebuilt my front driveshaft...it kept vibrating...then the slip joint stopped slipping and I ended up replacing it with an Adams.

Hope yours goes better!

-Mac
 
Did you clock the front driveshaft when you pulled it? Mark exactly which cap was where?

Try unbolting the front driveshaft from the pinion and rotating it 180 degrees.

-Mac

This is one of those things that I always questioned but could never really find an answer to. If all you're doing is pulling a driveshaft, nothing else, do you really have to mark it where it aligned with the yoke?
 
This is one of those things that I always questioned but could never really find an answer to. If all you're doing is pulling a driveshaft, nothing else, do you really have to mark it where it aligned with the yoke?

In the video I followed from Jeep Solid he marked it and I think he said he recommended doing so because the driveshaft is balanced from the factory and it's best to put everything back in the same factory orientation for that reason? 🤷
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper
Can anyone confirm are these not the correct u joints?

Screenshot_20231119-193925.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper
Based on that diagram I shouldn't be using a 5-1310-1x u joint for the axle side u joint? Is the 5-1310-1x just the greasable version of the 5-1310-x?

Idk why but for some reason that chart gives me a headache. 🤯 That being said there maybe some confusion. By axle side u joint do you mean the axle side of the front driveshaft job you're doing, or the u joints by the front wheels? If front wheels Boog is right.

For your driveshaft job you need position 2, 3, 4, figure I. For your 1999 that would be 5-153x, and 5-1310-1x (x2). Yes both of those part numbers are just the greasable version of the 5-1310-X. I personally ordered the non-greasables. You don't have to worry about greasing them, which way the grease zerk points, or accidentally snapping off the fitting.
 
Idk why but for some reason that chart gives me a headache. 🤯 That being said there maybe some confusion. By axle side u joint do you mean the axle side of the front driveshaft job you're doing, or the u joints by the front wheels? If front wheels Boog is right.

For your driveshaft job you need position 2, 3, 4, figure I. For your 1999 that would be 5-153x, and 5-1310-1x (x2). Yes both of those part numbers are just the greasable version of the 5-1310-X. I personally ordered the non-greasables. You don't have to worry about greasing them, which way the grease zerk points, or accidentally snapping off the fitting.

Now I'm confused. :unsure: I should have read both pages of this thread. I assume people that say axle side u-joint means axle u-joints. :rolleyes: So, now I have rear axle side u-joints too? I give up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper
Idk why but for some reason that chart gives me a headache. 🤯 That being said there maybe some confusion. By axle side u joint do you mean the axle side of the front driveshaft job you're doing, or the u joints by the front wheels? If front wheels Boog is right.

For your driveshaft job you need position 2, 3, 4, figure I. For your 1999 that would be 5-153x, and 5-1310-1x (x2). Yes both of those part numbers are just the greasable version of the 5-1310-X. I personally ordered the non-greasables. You don't have to worry about greasing them, which way the grease zerk points, or accidentally snapping off the fitting.

That chart is giving me a headache too. So it looks like if I went with the non greasable option, I can just get 3 of the 5-1310-x?
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper
That chart is giving me a headache too. So it looks like if I went with the non greasable option, I can just get 3 of the 5-1310-x?

Yes, get three of those. I just ordered 3 new u joints for my front driveshaft, and I had to double check the chart like 5 times. Just when I thought I was done with the Jeep, here goes another 75$. Just Empty Every Pocket at this point.
 
Yes, get three of those. I just ordered 3 new u joints for my front driveshaft, and I had to double check the chart like 5 times. Just when I thought I was done with the Jeep, here goes another 75$. Just Empty Every Pocket at this point.

Yeah my pinion seal replacement I thought was going to be a $15 job. That was before I had to buy the $90 impact wrench, and now $60 in u joints, I should've known I wouldn't get away that cheap!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper