Body lift with 4 inch suspension lift & 35s

LJDC

LJDC

TJ Enthusiast
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Feb 20, 2023
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D.C.
My build is approaching its goal. (I’d say conclusion, but who are we kidding?)

After my 4” Savvy/Currie lift (with an Antirock front sway bar), I added Revolution chromoly axle shafts, Spicer ball joints, Currie steering, ARB lockers, Dana gears, Vanco big brakes, and BFG 35s on 15” rims. Now, looking at the tires, the “Will they rub?” question seems silly: Of course they will.

So my question is: What are the best arguments *against* a 1.25” body lift (and MML)? I’m leaning toward doing it, but I want to know what side effects I should expect. This is an ‘05 LJ manual. I absolutely do not want to do any cutting or replace the factory fender extensions (personal preference).

For now, I do not plan to do a belly-up skid, because I want to see whether the expense of replacing the drive shaft is worth it, and I will know whether I “need” it when the Jeep gets back on the dirt and rocks. Maybe I will, maybe I won’t—and I understand that the belly-up can cause its own complications. But I’m holding off on adding rockers until I decide on the body lift, so I’d like to make this decision first.

Pros and cons? If I go with the MML, are the “Bomb-Proof” motor mounts better or worse than something like the Savvy aluminum shims, for jitter?

IMG_4402.jpeg
 
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LJDC said:
So my question is: What are the best arguments *against* a 1.25” body lift (and MML)?
Click to expand...

I don't think many people here are going to argue against a 1-1.25 body lift. Why are you questioning it?

LJDC said:
Pros and cons? If I go with the MML, are the “Bomb-Proof” motor mounts
Click to expand...

Skip those and use a spacer under factory mounts.
 
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The only reason not to get a 1.25 BL is because all the cool kids have 1.25" BL's

There are a whole lot of reasons to get one, but you didn't ask for that.
 
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To me, a 4" suspension lift plus a 1" to 1.25" body lift is absolutely ideal for 35" tires and is what I run. I have never regretted that combination.

So far as the motor mounts go, it depends on what condition your OEM Mopar mount's rubber bushings are whether or not Savvy's motor mount spacer kit is a good way to go. If the rubber bushings are still in excellent condition I'd go with the Savvy spacer kit. If the mount bushings are questionable, which I'd expect at this point in their lives, I'd go for the Bombproof 1" motor mounts with rubber bushings from Mountain Offroad Enterprises. Of the 3 different motor mounts I've installed on TJs they were, by far, the best quality and caused no additional vibrations like I experienced with Currie's and Brown Dog's due to their use of polyurethane bushings.
 
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Last edited:
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LJDC said:
My build is approaching its goal. (I’d say conclusion, but who are we kidding?)

After my 4” Savvy/Currie lift (with an Antirock front sway bar), I added Revolution chromoly axle shafts, Spicer ball joints, Currie steering, ARB lockers, Dana gears, Vanco big brakes, and BFG 35s on 15” rims. Now, looking at the tires, the “Will they rub?” question seems silly: Of course they will.

So my question is: What are the best arguments *against* a 1.25” body lift (and MML)? I’m leaning toward doing it, but I want to know what side effects I should expect. This is an ‘05 LJ manual. I absolutely do not want to do any cutting or replace the factory fender extensions (personal preference).

For now, I do not plan to do a belly-up skid, because I want to see whether the expense of replacing the drive shaft is worth it, and I will know whether I “need” it when the Jeep gets back on the dirt and rocks. Maybe I will, maybe I won’t—and I understand that the belly-up can cause its own complications. But I’m holding off on adding rockers until I decide on the body lift, so I’d like to make this decision first.

Pros and cons? If I go with the MML, are the “Bomb-Proof” motor mounts better or worse than something like the Savvy aluminum shims, for jitter?

View attachment 483417
Click to expand...

This isn't an argument "against" a 1.25" body lift, but a few side effects you should expect. Apart from the normal requirements of adjusting the gas tank fill tube length to accommodate the extra 1.25", re-locating the fan shroud if you don't do a MML, and the need for an adjusted TCase shifter bracket or upgraded cable shifter, the biggest issue with the 6-speed is how it affects the shift box relative to your lower boot and console. The shifter may tear up that lower boot and the shifter may hit the console or have difficulty getting into 2, 4, 6, and R. The best fix for this is a tummy tuck, but there are other makeshift solutions.
 
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JMT said:
Apart from the normal requirements of adjusting the gas tank fill tube length to accommodate the extra 1.25",
Click to expand...
Never had to do that with any 1.25" BL.
JMT said:
and the need for an adjusted TCase shifter bracket
Click to expand...
Mine shifted just as good without that bracket. I used it anyway on most of them.
JMT said:
the biggest issue with the 6-speed is how it affects the shift box relative to your lower boot and console. The shifter may tear up that lower boot and the shifter may hit the console or have difficulty getting into 2, 4, 6, and R.
Click to expand...
I've only had two 6 speeds and that was never an issue with mine. One had a MML, one didn't.
 
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JMT said:
This isn't an argument "against" a 1.25" body lift, but a few side effects you should expect. Apart from the normal requirements of adjusting the gas tank fill tube length to accommodate the extra 1.25", re-locating the fan shroud if you don't do a MML, and the need for an adjusted TCase shifter bracket or upgraded cable shifter, the biggest issue with the 6-speed is how it affects the shift box relative to your lower boot and console. The shifter may tear up that lower boot and the shifter may hit the console or have difficulty getting into 2, 4, 6, and R. The best fix for this is a tummy tuck, but there are other makeshift solutions.
Click to expand...

Thank you—this is exactly what I was trying to get at. I get that they’re all different, and I’ve heard about the shifting problem. What are the best solutions? Is it the body or the console that is in the way?

I actually already got a replacement for the lower boot because mine is a bit worse for wear (and therefore letting a little heat in).
 
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TheBoogieman said:
Never had to do that with any 1.25" BL.

Mine shifted just as good without that bracket. I used it anyway on most of them.

I've only had two 6 speeds and that was never an issue with mine. One had a MML, one didn't.
Click to expand...

I did have the shifting issue, but it was extremely easy to shift the console back a inch to solve that issue.
 
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TheBoogieman said:
Never had to do that with any 1.25" BL.

Mine shifted just as good without that bracket. I used it anyway on most of them.

I've only had two 6 speeds and that was never an issue with mine. One had a MML, one didn't.
Click to expand...

I had to move my console back and modify the shifter length to clear the console and center the shifter in the boot. Several others have followed my mod in my build thread because they had the same issue. Obviously YMMV.
 
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LJDC said:
Thank you—this is exactly what I was trying to get at. I get that they’re all different, and I’ve heard about the shifting problem. What are the best solutions? Is it the body or the console that is in the way?

I actually already got a replacement for the lower boot because mine is a bit worse for wear (and therefore letting a little heat in).
Click to expand...

It’s the console that was in the way. I moved it back an inch (which is about all you can go because the rear cup holder section will hit the tub where it platforms out for the back seat). I also extended the shifter 1.25” by using a spacer and a longer bolt.
 
I think y++ou want the BL with 4" suspension lift to run 35's (unless you prefer more limited uptravel) and you need to pick either MML or SYE unless you opt for a tummy tuck, in which case you will want both. In my opinion, the SYE is a good investment even with the LJ since it removes several variables from the equasions.
 
JMT said:
I had to move my console back and modify the shifter length to clear the console and center the shifter in the boot. Several others have followed my mod in my build thread because they had the same issue. Obviously YMMV.
Click to expand...

JMT said:
It’s the console that was in the way. I moved it back an inch (which is about all you can go because the rear cup holder section will hit the tub where it platforms out for the back seat). I also extended the shifter 1.25” by using a spacer and a longer bolt.
Click to expand...
I looked pretty hard but couldn’t find the part of your build thread (327 pages!), but I did find this:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/shifter-banging-bezel.10169/#post-159330
Did you end up gluing on a tab to extend the hole in the center console?
 
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