Purple TJ in AZ (just some of the stuff I've done thread)

When I got my JK wheels last year, someone much wiser than me said to make sure you carry valve stems. The JK wheel style leaves the stem very vulnerable to rocks.

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So I bought some Colby valve stems for trail repairs.

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It did not take long and sure enough, I smashed a valve stem and it started leaking. The Colbys are great! Complete stem replaced without having to break the bead. 10 minutes and back on the trail.



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They say you can leave them in permanently, but I was a little Leary of that because there is nothing but friction holding them in.
So I shopped around and found some extra short valve stems. TR412 model stems are 1/2" shorter than a standard TR413 short stem.

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I put those in this weekend and it puts the stem back into the shadow of the rim.

Super short...

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Standard Short......

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I am still going to carry the Colbys with me on the trail but I hope tucking these in an extra half inch will keep me from needing them.
 
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PurpleTJAZ said:
When I got my JK wheels last year, someone much wiser than me said to make sure you carry valve stems. The JK wheel style leaves the stem very vulnerable to rocks.

View attachment 491808

So I bought some Colby valve stems for trail repairs.

View attachment 491809

It did not take long and sure enough, I smashed a valve stem and it started leaking. The Colbys are great! Complete stem replaced without having to break the bead. 10 minutes and back on the trail.



View attachment 491813

They say you can leave them in permanently, but I was a little Leary of that because there is nothing but friction holding them in.
So I shopped around and found some extra short valve stems. TR412 model stems are 1/2" shorter than a standard TR413 short stem.

View attachment 491814

I put those in this weekend and it puts the stem back into the shadow of the rim.

Super short...

View attachment 491816

Standard Short......

View attachment 491817

I am still going to carry the Colbys with me on the trail but I hope tucking these in an extra half inch will keep me from needing them.
Click to expand...

That’s pretty cool. I carry around this big specialty tool kit that allows me to replace a standard stem with another standard stem without breaking the bead - but it’s a pain in the ass to actually do. This seems like a much better alternative.

Edit: Just ordered a set. Thanks much for the tip. I’m saving space and weight! But really, this looks like a much better emergency solution.
 
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I keep a pair of them in my plug kit.
It really is. A pair of pliers to pop the old stem out, slip the new stem in and a 7/16" socket to tighten it down. Put air in it and drive.
Literally a 10 minute repair. And they are solid. I drove on it for three months before I changed it out to a regular stem again.
 
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MikeE024 said:
Glad you found it now and not on the trail/road.
Click to expand...
Yep , tore the other side off last year. I guess it was a matter of time.
I will do some cleAn up and welding this weekend.
Also have a cel for the transmission.
Spent a couple hours today chasing wires for voltage, ohms and continuity. I think I am down to the PCM or failed solenoid.
 
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PurpleTJAZ said:
Also have a cel for the transmission.
Spent a couple hours today chasing wires for voltage, ohms and continuity. I think I am down to the PCM or failed solenoid.
Click to expand...

Any shifting issues accompanying the codes?

Does Mark (Wranglerfix) offer a TCM as well as the PCM for your vehicle?
 
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MikeE024 said:
Any shifting issues accompanying the codes?

Does Mark (Wranglerfix) offer a TCM as well as the PCM for your vehicle?
Click to expand...

No , as far as I can diagnose, the torque converter is just not locking up at cruise causing a P 0743 code. It is probably the solenoid. I have one mOre test before I drop the he valve body to replace the solenoid. I will try to manually activate the solenoid while driving. All of the wiring checks out ok. The PCM will and is the last and least most likely problem.
 
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PurpleTJAZ said:
No , as far as I can diagnose, the torque converter is just not locking up at cruise causing a P 0743 code. It is probably the solenoid. I have one mOre test before I drop the he valve body to replace the solenoid. I will try to manually activate the solenoid while driving. All of the wiring checks out ok. The PCM will and is the last and least most likely problem.
Click to expand...

I think i understand...so if you manually activate the solenoid and it latches/unlatches (not sure if it's NO or NC), then it's likely the PCM assuming the wiring is good from the PCM to the solenoid.
 
MikeE024 said:
I think i understand...so if you manually activate the solenoid and it latches/unlatches (not sure if it's NO or NC), then it's likely the PCM assuming the wiring is good from the PCM to the solenoid.
Click to expand...

That’s the way I see it. I checked the wiring for continuity and it passed. I have a bypass rigged I will test tomorrow to see if I can manually connect it. If it will not engage I will replace the solenoid, but that means dropping the valve body and that is not an afternoon party I want to attend. PCM is not likely so it will be a last resort. “I believe “ a lot of PCM replacements are do to misdiagnosis. I will only cross that bridge when all other options are exhausted.
 
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PurpleTJAZ said:
That’s the way I see it. I checked the wiring for continuity and it passed. I have a bypass rigged I will test tomorrow to see if I can manually connect it. If it will not engage I will replace the solenoid, but that means dropping the valve body and that is not an afternoon party I want to attend. PCM is not likely so it will be a last resort. “I believe “ a lot of PCM replacements are do to misdiagnosis. I will only cross that bridge when all other options are exhausted.
Click to expand...

Makes sense to me (without looking at the diagrams).

Just wanted to mention that it might be worth doing a resistance check rather than a continuity check just to confirm the wiring is truly good.

I say this because I've seen many times where continuity reads good (beeps), but there's not enough current flow to allow a solenoid to latch because resistance is high. This can happen when let's say...only a few strands out of many strands are still connected.

I don't dare claim that this will fix your issue, but I just wanted to mention it in case it helps.
 
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PurpleTJAZ said:
“I believe “ a lot of PCM replacements are do to misdiagnosis. I will only cross that bridge when all other options are exhausted.
Click to expand...

I think so too. That happens when you have so many sensors reporting to and relying on a central brain. I dealt with this for years fixing the avionics on Tomcats and Superhornets.

That said, I had a #3 misfire that would cause issues in idle when sitting at an intersection. This is largely viewed as a heat soak problem, so I wrapped the fuel rail, the line by the cats, the injectors, and I installed a hood louver...yet the issue remained.

I later installed a WF PCM to see if it would fix a transmission issue that ended up being a bad solenoid pack (caused a shudder going into OD on my 42RLE). I tried the PCM first because I knew Bullripper (trans remanufacturer) would point to it as the cause if I didn't rule it out.

While the PCM didn't fix the transmission issue, it fixed the random rough idle so I didn't return it and I've been good ever since. I definitely agree that the PCM is too often wrongly pointed at, but sometimes that little bastard ends up being the problem after all. That's just how electrical nonsense goes sometimes.
 
MikeE024 said:
Makes sense to me (without looking at the diagrams).

Just wanted to mention that it might be worth doing a resistance check rather than a continuity check just to confirm the wiring is truly good.

I say this because I've seen many times where continuity reads good (beeps), but there's not enough current flow to allow a solenoid to latch because resistance is high. This can happen when let's say...only a few strands out of many strands are still connected.

I don't dare claim that this will fix your issue, but I just wanted to mention it in case it helps.
Click to expand...

Already done . It ohms out at about 12.5. All wiring tested fine. The “hot wire” direct power / ground is the last step before dropping moving forward.
 
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So the solenoid failed to engage with direct voltage. In drive with foot on the brake, direct power to the solenoid and no drop in rpm. It should try to stall or at least stumble.
Looks like I am dropping the pan and valve body as soon as the part arrives.
The big question is, do I take it to work and use a hoist in the shop or at home on the floor? Work would force a short window to complete the job and if I run into problems I’m stuck.Home gives me the time to work through any surprises and make sure it’s done right.
I will cross that bridge when the parts arrive.
 
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So awhile back I extended my shifter so could reach it while harnessed in but the clearance to my locker switches was tight and I kept inadvertently engaging them when moving the shifter. I was going to bend my shifter a little bit to move it away from the dash

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PurpleTJAZ said:
So awhile back I extended my shifter so could reach it while harnessed in but the clearance to my locker switches was tight and I kept inadvertently engaging them when moving the shifter. I was going to bend my shifter a little bit to move it away from the dash

View attachment 520318
Click to expand...

Ended up getting this panel off the interweb. Was able to move my locker switches and winch control closer to the driver and more room between the shifter and dash switches. Pretty happy with the results. Managed to kill a Saturday, a few beers and clean up some dash wiring .

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