Stubby rear bumpers

Main problem with that style to me is how they don’t protect to bottom corners of your tub. My current rear bumpers corners are completely raw from sliding down rocks. That’d be my tub if it wasn’t for my bumper being same width as the tub.
 
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xXDavidCXx said:
What is the consensis on these types of stubby rear bumpers?

is there enough structure behind the d-ring shackles to trust them in a real recovery situation?

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Why wouldn’t there be enough structure? The d rings are welded to the base identically to most other bumpers.

TJ Starting said:
Main problem with that style to me is how they don’t protect to bottom corners of your tub. My current rear bumpers corners are completely raw from sliding down rocks. That’d be my tub if it wasn’t for my bumper being same width as the tub.
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True, but not an issue if you have corner armor. I personally choose to have the extra clearance (especially given the LJ).
 
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PNW_LJ said:
Why wouldn’t there be enough structure? The d rings are welded to the base identically to most other bumpers.



True, but not an issue if you have corner armor. I personally choose to have the extra clearance (especially given the LJ).
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I agree, corner armor fixes that issue. But in my case, something I don’t have.
 
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Generally speaking if they include a frame the in bracket it's worth considering.

Something else to consider is if it's set an inch higher to cover up a body lift.

-Mac
 
For me, on my LJ, I need the extra corner protection. The poison spyder corners I have help, but when you drop off a rock in an LJ, and it doesn't go right, and you end up hitting upwards on the body, those corner protectors only do so much.

I know this because I run the Poison Spyder BFH II Rear Bumper, which gives a bit more corner protection but not full protection. I slid off a rock incorrectly on a wet day and now the whole corner of the body is tweaked. It wasn't that hard of a hit. The skid is fine but the body is not. I'm going to have to build in some reinforcements now when I track down the weak spots.

TNT customs is going to start selling this bumper in the new few weeks and I plan on getting it to replace my existing bumper
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PNW_LJ said:
That isn’t unique to “stubby” bumpers.

If that’s a concern, frame tie in brackets can be added to most any bumper.
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I reused my Metalcloak tie ins when I switched to my Barnes bumper which I believe is the cheapest of options. Also don’t have corner armor and have only kissed my corners once.
 
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I always wished those style bumpers would cover the corners. Mike_H modified his to cover them. I’d have destroyed mine without corner armor.
 
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X2 to those saying a stubby rear bumper could allow more rear corner damage which certainly would have been the case for me. There were a few trails I did semi-regularly, one in particular, that had some unavoidable drop-offs that caused my the corner of my rear bumper to hit the rock shelf so hard I swear it made my teeth hurt. I tried multiple ways down those kinds of drop-offs over many years and none ever eliminated the big impacts to the rear bumper's outside corners. I run a stubby up front but I never even considered making my rear bumper a stubby.
 
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PNW_LJ said:
The first clip is what convinced me on the stubby bumper/corner armor combo.

But I haven’t made use of the gains yet as I keep hitting my untucked GTS.
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A big reason I switched to that low profile bumper was because the previous larger one was becoming an impediment for what we have been doing in recent years. Doing so quickly led to the corners getting bashed in and all the spot welds tearing loose.

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The corners really should have been installed much earlier, before I ripped the body apart.

When the corners went on (to cover the pop rivets), I added additional nutserts into the rear torque box to better unify the structure of the body corners to the rear torque box to the corner armor.

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Followed by my in progress project of adding a rear valance plate that connects the corners together and will soon be fully bolted to the rear torque box, once the lights are cut in.

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jjvw said:
A big reason I switched to that low profile bumper was because the previous larger one was becoming an impediment for what we have been doing in recent years. Doing so quickly led to the corners getting bashed in and all the spot welds tearing loose.
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Another reason as to why I’m glad I installed the corner armor when I did.

jjvw said:
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The corners really should have been installed much earlier, before I ripped the body apart.

When the corners went on (to cover the pop rivets), I added additional nutserts into the rear torque box to better unify the structure of the body corners to the rear torque box to the corner armor.


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Followed by my in progress project of adding a rear valance plate that connects the corners together and will soon be fully bolted to the rear torque box, once the lights are cut in.

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The valance plate “a la blaine” is very nice, I plan to make one when I pull my corners and swap the hardware for philips. It’s odd that more builders aren’t at the very least, adding additional unifying points to the torque box/corner.


Edit: I have some related thoughts on a tailgate/hinge reinforcement, but it’ll wait until our next spare tire carrier conversation.
 
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PNW_LJ said:
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Edit: I have some related thoughts on a tailgate/hinge reinforcement, but it’ll wait until our next spare tire carrier conversation.
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The tub mounted carrier is relevant to this because of the added weight to the structure.
 
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