Thats what I was thinking. Any preventative measures beyond new DS? I've been considering one just in case.
Transfer case exploded
- Thread starter 06TJ35's
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Thats what I was thinking. Any preventative measures beyond new DS? I've been considering one just in case.
OP
This might be the only possibility. I did hear my front driveshaft squealing a bit when I slowed down to a stop.
On my way back from the hammers I told myself I will take off my front driveshaft before leaving but I never made it.
Preventive-wise only rebuilding the CV comes to mind other than replacing the front driveshaft entirely. Also call @Shawn at Tom Wood's at www.4xshaft.com as their prices for the entire shaft are often not much more than it'd cost to have it rebuilt at a driveshaft shop. They're fast too. I'd only specify that it was made with Spicer sealed u-joints if you decide to go that way.
I've had a squeaking up front at low speeds I have not been able to ID. I guess its time to take the front driveshaft our and do some more driving.
I just refreshed my memory yesterday on how much I hate having to grease that damn centering yoke in the front.
Can a non-greasable centering yoke be installed in a shaft built with a greasable one or is there a difference in the stud that it has to be one or the other? I'd much rather just replace it while I have it apart replacing U-joints.
Can a non-greasable centering yoke be installed in a shaft built with a greasable one or is there a difference in the stud that it has to be one or the other? I'd much rather just replace it while I have it apart replacing U-joints.
I'm no expert, but based on looking at the parts at Denny's, I believe the CV ball stud yokes are different....
This one says to use with greasable centering yoke only
And this one says to use with non-greasable only.
Now, when you look at the dimensional measurement graphic, it shows the "H" measurement (the centering stud) as 0.500 on both, so maybe they could be interchangeable, but that baffling on the non-greasable version is probably for dust protection that probably is important enough to matter if they bothered to put it there. Plus the red warning text in the description to only use each type of yoke with each type of centering ball probably should be heeded.
That sucks, I too wish the default for centering balls from the driveshaft builders was non-greasable. It's not like they're a failure prone part, just look at how long it took for many of the TJs to have issues. I would say it should at least be an option when building online. Many aren't greasing their greasable ones anyways, so that's probably worse off being the default. But I'm not a driveshaft builder so I don't really know why one or the other is chosen as default.
I do think that the fact the factory only supplied non-greasable is worth paying attention to.
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ok, that makes sense.
and yes...the non greasable seem to have a perfectly acceptable service life. I replaced the ones in my TJ and LJ both around the 115k mark only because I had it out for other reasons and figured it was a good time to refresh it with new U-joints and centering yoke.
@06TJ35's is your front shaft OE with a non-greasable yoke? Or is it an aftermarket shaft with a greasable one? Also...my condolences regarding your transfer case. You're living one of my Jeep nightmares.
OP
OP
For sure- If you ever suspect front shaft noise, pull it asap.
You can use a greasable centering yoke on a non greasable shaft since it is smaller(did this when rebuilding my stock ds).if you try the opposite it won't fit.the non greasable bearing is too big for a greasable shaft
how many miles on the centering yoke?
I'm just trying to get a feeling for how long they typically last in case I pay somebody to put one in mine. As previously mentioned, I've replaced 2 that were beyond 100k that were definitely stale but not making noise and not about to lock up.
OP
150k miles currently on my jeep.
I never replaced it.
I did plan on replacing it though with the new rear driveshaft but didn’t have the coin for the front.
OP
That's a lot cheaper to replace.
Found one for 450 if I need a another sssye it will still be under 1k
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