Looking For Powered Subwoofer

No, under the seats is what I want. I was hoping there was a unit that would not affect seat operation. Andy

Under the seats IS an option, however I don't think it's an option worth wasting your money on.

Again, subwoofers NEED airspace/enclosure to function optimally.
Moving air is HOW subwoofers create the deep tones. Airspace is what makes a subwoofer sound like a subwoofer.

There's simply not enough space underneath the seat for a subwoofer of any reasonable size.
The largest you're going to fit underneath any of the TJ seats would be something along the lines of a 6" subwoofer, which is almost quite literally the size of your sound-bar speakers.

Again, since the subwoofer IS so small, and the enclosure is also small, performance probably won't be anything close to what you're expecting/imagining.
(to put it into correlation with the TJ platform, the factory/oem console subwoofer is 6.5" in size)

Most modern vehicles with factory subwoofer options have at LEAST an 8" subwoofer.
(which 9 times out of 10 STILL sounds inadequate if you enjoy your music)

However, if you're absolutely dead set on that route, this is probably your best option...

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I use a sound ordance something. I dont think they make it anymore but for the jeep it works really well. My only complaint is the bass is kind of all over the place. One song I've got to turn it way down, then next song I've got to turn it way up. The sub is strapped to the back of my toolbox and nothing more
 
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I got a Rockford 12 in 300 watt that fit perfect behind the back seat ... angled to fit the seat and flat to fit the tailgate .. bumps pretty good
 

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Mine is powered with 500 Watts by a Alpine PDX-v9. Two ten inch molded Tan subwoofer box in the trunk. It is easy to take it out as it is fitted and lifts right out by just disconnecting the push wire connectors to the box and lifting it out. 500 for the box with the two subs and 1000 for the pdx v9. Great audio system investment and all the stereo power you will ever need. I've had this setup for ten years. I just saved my money and did it right. Never blew a 130 watt RMS CDT speaker(4), and second HU in 10 years when I upgraded to my ten inch touchscreen with wireless Android Auto.
 
I'm wondering why a powered subwoofer couldn't be strapped to the rollbar between the speaker/light pods? There is 15" of space there. There must be some universal aluminium roll bar brackets that could be made to work. Perhaps from the side-by-side world?

Andy
 
I'm wondering why a powered subwoofer couldn't be strapped to the rollbar between the speaker/light pods? There is 15" of space there. There must be some universal aluminium roll bar brackets that could be made to work. Perhaps from the side-by-side world?

Andy

Are you asking why one doesn't mount a subwoofer, up and in the air?
 
So it needs to be mounted to a solid surface? That would explain it. Andy

That's a part of it. The main part is that you want the subwoofer on the floor, or at least closely downfiring to it. The best mount is on the floor and downfiring.

Google explains:

Why does a subwoofer need to be on the floor?

1. A subwoofer needs to be on the floor because low frequencies need more surface area to propagate to create the desired effect. If you put a subwoofer on a shelf or against a wall, you're essentially cutting off its ability to produce low frequencies.

Another similar explanation:

2. It's common practice to place a subwoofer at floor level. Low frequencies are less directional than mids and highs and very low frequencies are felt more than they are heard. Keeping the subwoofer close to the floor allows the sound to propagate across the floor and it usually sounds more natural.
 
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