Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

20240216_204326.jpg
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: JMT, D M and tworley
Woodrow said:
I used that same brand for the 2K epoxy primer on my frame rehab 2 years ago. It went on nicer by far than anything else I’ve used from a rattle can. I still don’t think I nailed the adhesion, though.
View attachment 500146
Here’s the prep after stripping wheel/flap disc and rust reformer:
View attachment 500134
Then the 2K primer (which was followed by a Krylon semi flat top coat):
View attachment 500133
And here is a performance report:
This is a pretty hard rock hit from Moab last year. I bumped the throttle to get up a ledge climbing out of the creek at the end of Steelbender. Note the area of actual contact circled and the much larger area of smooth, bare metal where the primer and top coat just lifted off:
View attachment 500139
Not a fair comparison but look at this tow hook I had powder coated. Only the scratched metal is bare, with no surrounding loss:
View attachment 500140
Do you have any tips for getting better adhesion with a rattle can and not baking the paint on? Or is trying to achieve powder coat performance from a rattle can to lofty a goal? In thinking about it, I also suspect the UCA bracket flexed a lot more than the tow hook with their respective impacts which may have contributed. But body panels, like @jjvw ’s fenders are susceptible to that kind of flexing as well.
Click to expand...

You have a key failure or bond breaker. That epoxy has very good adhesion to a correctly prepped surface. I suspect that whatever you cleaned the frame with after you sanded it is the issue. That is also the correct application for that primer. It is formulated to bond well to problem surfaces and bare sanded clean steel would be cake.
 
  • Like
Reactions: psrivats and Woodrow
Today in my slow and methodically plodding march towards highline fenders, I built a new mount for the PCM that sits higher up on and closer against the firewall.
Mine...
20240302_163105.jpg


Someone else's...
jeep (1).jpg


The new mount is about 3/8" tighter into the firewall than factory.
20240302_145835.jpg


The battery is going to get raised up about 3.25". The goal was to get the PCM as much out of the way as I could see possible.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Longwhitejeep, CV04TJR, Rickyd and 4 others
jjvw said:
Today in my slow and methodically plodding march towards highline fenders, I built a new mount for the PCM that sits higher up on and closer against the firewall.
Mine...
View attachment 506075

Someone else's...
View attachment 506077

The new mount is about 3/8" tighter into the firewall than factory.
View attachment 506076

The battery is going to get raised up about 3.25". The goal was to get the PCM as much out of the way as I could see possible.
Click to expand...

DON'T DO IT THIS WAY! STAY TUNED!! 🤣
 
  • Wow
  • Sad
Reactions: Irun, JMT and rasband
The way to do it is to not use a PCM bracket at all and simply screw the PCM directly to the firewall!
20240303_132138.jpg


I had a good laugh over this when Blaine said he wished I had said something about moving the PCM before I did it. This way is much much easier and it creates a bit more valuable room than my first attempt did.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Longwhitejeep, CV04TJR, psrivats and 3 others
Top Bottom
Back