Needing Advice on New Front Bearing / U-Joint / Ball Joint Issues

zachpeakee

zachpeakee

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Bought an LJ about a month ago, and for the last 2 days I've been in the process of 'refreshing' my front axle.
Last service date of Ball Joints was 1 Lower Joint 40,000 miles ago by the Jeep Dealership.

With no service history of any other UJoints , BallJoints, Hub Unit, I'm only assuming they have likely never been replaced.

So I bought all new Spicer/Timken components, and replaced everything. However I do have some concerns with the install.
This is my first time replacing these components on a TJ, and quite simply putting it I would just like some opinions on whether or not I've done this correctly.

1708993712723.png


Issue number 1, my new front hub bolts are about 1/8" longer than the OEM/Factory bolts I removed.
They are fully torqued, but only have about 1mm of clearance from the Timken HA597449 Hub/Bearing Assembly.
Is this an issue, and should I be concerned about it?

1708993075599.png


1708993087041.png


Second issue;
I'm fairly positive that this is okay, and correct, but would like some additional confirmation on that.
My factory upper ball joints were tight against the Knuckle, whereas my new Spicer 706944X Upper Ball Joints have a noticeable gap.
(these are torqued to spec, and this is the final product..)

1708993321667.png


Lastly, this isn't so much of an issue, I would just appreciate some extra eyes on it so that I can be assured I've seated the front U-Joints correctly..
I'm unsure as to whether or not they should be flush with the yoke or slightly recessed. I currently have them flush, and the joint feels smooth as silk when turning by hand.

1708993516015.png


Any insights/opinions are appreciated!
 
I'll try to jump in

The longer hub bolts would make me nervous. I bought genuine spicer bolts and Timken bearings and did not notice them being that close. I would either buy spicer brand bolts or trim what you have.

The ball joint is a non issue

U joints..are the snap rings fully seated on the inside? Take a flashlight and double check. If they are fully seated than the u joint doesn't care if it's flush or not with the ear
 
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P man said:
I'll try to jump in

The longer hub bolts would make me nervous. I bought genuine spicer bolts and Timken bearings and did not notice them being that close. I would either buy spicer brand bolts or trim what you have.
Click to expand...

I wasn't aware of the Spicer Bolts.
I just tossed the amazon "frequently bought with this product" Dorman replacement bolts, that were recommended on the Timken Hub/Bearing page.

They do make me nervous, although I'm not sure it even matters as long as it doesn't interfere with wheel rotation.
Just them being as close as they are is a bit unsettling.


P man said:
If they are fully seated than the u joint doesn't care if it's flush or not with the ear
Click to expand...

Okay awesome.
The snap rings went without issue, as did the U-Joints as a whole.
I'll go check around with a flashlight and double check.
If it's that simple, then i'm pretty positive it's correct.


I appreciate the help!
 
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zachpeakee said:
I wasn't aware of the Spicer Bolts.
I just tossed the amazon "frequently bought with this product" Dorman replacement bolts, that were recommended on the Timken Hub/Bearing page.

They do make me nervous, although I'm not sure it even matters as long as it doesn't interfere with wheel rotation.
Just them being as close as they are is a bit unsettling.




Okay awesome.
The snap rings went without issue, as did the U-Joints as a whole.
I'll go check around with a flashlight and double check.
If it's that simple, then i'm pretty positive it's correct.


I appreciate the help!
Click to expand...

You should account for a little deflection in the bearing with age and force. I'd grind the ends a little bit. It won't hurt them. Ditto on the snap rings being snug up against the inside of the ears
 
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Rickyd said:
You should account for a little deflection in the bearing with age and force. I'd grind the ends a little bit. It won't hurt them. Ditto on the snap rings being snug up against the inside of the ears
Click to expand...

I hadn't considered that, but it makes sense.
I'll get them taken care of!
 
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On the U Joints, if you have the rings in, set it down and hit the base of the ear with a BFH. That’s spreads the U Joint snug. @Jerry Bransford had a write up somewhere on that. Never use a press on those, they will bend, change them out with hammer basically and some. Grips to pull on caps and you’re good.
 
I started carrying an extra set of those hub bolts when wheeling. A broken axle joint wiped out one and made it a pain to tear down or reuse long term. I have a few extras lying around now.
 
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cpwolf said:
On the U Joints, if you have the rings in, set it down and hit the base of the ear with a BFH. That’s spreads the U Joint snug. @Jerry Bransford had a write up somewhere on that. Never use a press on those, they will bend, change them out with hammer basically and some. Grips to pull on caps and you’re good.
Click to expand...
Using the hammer like the below uses inertia to force the bearing caps back out when they were seated too deeply causing the u-joint to bind.

u-joint relief.jpg
 
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cpwolf said:
On the U Joints, if you have the rings in, set it down and hit the base of the ear with a BFH. That’s spreads the U Joint snug. @Jerry Bransford had a write up somewhere on that. Never use a press on those, they will bend, change them out with hammer basically and some. Grips to pull on caps and you’re good.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did!
 
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Thank you guys for the second opinions.

I'm going to grind down the Dorman bolts a bit, and order a set of the Spicer Bolts as backup plan.

As long as everything else seems correct, I'll gladly take the bolts as my only issue!
 
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zachpeakee said:
Thank you guys for the second opinions.

I'm going to grind down the Dorman bolts a bit, and order a set of the Spicer Bolts as backup plan.

As long as everything else seems correct, I'll gladly take the bolts as my only issue!
Click to expand...

I'm curious others' opinion, I replaced bearing last summer but used same bolts so I don't remember every detail, but can you throw a washer under all 3 and call it a day and wait for the new bolts and replace them? That'd give them the space you want.
 
cpwolf said:
I'm curious others' opinion, I replaced bearing last summer but used same bolts so I don't remember every detail, but can you throw a washer under all 3 and call it a day and wait for the new bolts and replace them? That'd give them the space you want.
Click to expand...

Y Not
 
cpwolf said:
I'm curious others' opinion, I replaced bearing last summer but used same bolts so I don't remember every detail, but can you throw a washer under all 3 and call it a day and wait for the new bolts and replace them? That'd give them the space you want.
Click to expand...

I'd considered that as well, and don't see why it wouldn't work.
But might as well fix it correctly while I've got it torn apart!
 
Just wanted to throw a little update to the thread.
I hit the end of the bolts with a cutoff wheel, then took a flap-disk to them to clean up the edge.

Also felt like an idiot, because nobody caught the fact that I completely forgot to reinstall the Brake shield. :ROFLMAO:

Got that squared away, everything reinstalled/torqued to spec, and drove the Jeep.
Everything seems to be good, and it drove nice & tight. 🤘

I appreciate all of the help!
 
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zachpeakee said:
Just wanted to throw a little update to the thread.
I hit the end of the bolts with a cutoff wheel, then took a flap-disk to them to clean up the edge.

Also felt like an idiot, because nobody caught the fact that I completely forgot to reinstall the Brake shield. :ROFLMAO:

Got that squared away, everything reinstalled/torqued to spec, and drove the Jeep.
Everything seems to be good, and it drove nice & tight. 🤘

I appreciate all of the help!
Click to expand...

I dont use them so it looked fine to me
 
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zachpeakee said:
Bought an LJ about a month ago, and for the last 2 days I've been in the process of 'refreshing' my front axle.
Last service date of Ball Joints was 1 Lower Joint 40,000 miles ago by the Jeep Dealership.

With no service history of any other UJoints , BallJoints, Hub Unit, I'm only assuming they have likely never been replaced.

So I bought all new Spicer/Timken components, and replaced everything. However I do have some concerns with the install.
This is my first time replacing these components on a TJ, and quite simply putting it I would just like some opinions on whether or not I've done this correctly.

View attachment 504544

Issue number 1, my new front hub bolts are about 1/8" longer than the OEM/Factory bolts I removed.
They are fully torqued, but only have about 1mm of clearance from the Timken HA597449 Hub/Bearing Assembly.
Is this an issue, and should I be concerned about it?

View attachment 504540

View attachment 504541

Second issue;
I'm fairly positive that this is okay, and correct, but would like some additional confirmation on that.
My factory upper ball joints were tight against the Knuckle, whereas my new Spicer 706944X Upper Ball Joints have a noticeable gap.
(these are torqued to spec, and this is the final product..)

View attachment 504542

Lastly, this isn't so much of an issue, I would just appreciate some extra eyes on it so that I can be assured I've seated the front U-Joints correctly..
I'm unsure as to whether or not they should be flush with the yoke or slightly recessed. I currently have them flush, and the joint feels smooth as silk when turning by hand.

View attachment 504543

Any insights/opinions are appreciated!
Click to expand...

A few things for you-
1- you can't judge the height of the knuckle against a floating rubber dust boot. The other one had moved down, this one hasn't yet.
2- read the instructions on the small piece of paper in the u-joint box. It specifically tells you not to mix the caps up and to put them back on the journals they were removed from. Unless you are really special and much better at stuff than I am, the only way I can do that is to number the caps and pins.
3- It helps everyone if you explain that you set the caps back against the snap rings. That way we don't spend a lot of wasted time telling you how to do something you already know.
4- trimming the dog point is not a big deal as you discovered.
5- The dust shield is semi-important, it is however, critical for the brake kits since the offset of the rotor to center it in the brake saddle is dependent upon the dust shield being in place.
6- What did you use the pickle fork for?
7- Where is the other side of the lower cotter pin, I see one leg, not both.
 
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mrblaine said:
A few things for you-
Click to expand...

I appreciate the extensive reply.
mrblaine said:
2- read the instructions on the small piece of paper in the u-joint box. It specifically tells you not to mix the caps up and to put them back on the journals they were removed from. Unless you are really special and much better at stuff than I am, the only way I can do that is to number the caps and pins.
Click to expand...

THIS is something I was not aware of, and my Spicer joints had NOTHING in the box of that manner.
I physically opened the box and flipped both upside down dumping the joints onto the bench. Never saw a piece of paper...
I just went into the garage, and double checked, and there's not a piece of paper anywhere.
Just the UJoints and a small plastic bag with the clips were in the boxes...

Needless to say, I 100% did NOT reinstall the caps onto their respective journals.
I removed all 4 Caps, installed, and just reinstalled onto the journals as I went along.

I know by reading your comment, this is now a mistake. My question at this point is how bad of a mistake am I in for?
mrblaine said:
5- The dust shield is semi-important, it is however, critical for the brake kits since the offset of the rotor to center it in the brake saddle is dependent upon the dust shield being in place.
Click to expand...

I assumed it was of minimal importance, but decided to tear it all apart and reinstall correctly.
The extra 20 minutes of work wasn't worth chancing it to me. So the dust shields are back installed properly.
mrblaine said:
6- What did you use the pickle fork for?
Click to expand...

I used the Pickle Fork to separate the Knuckle from the Ball Joints.
I tried the hammer method, and after about 10 minutes of HARD whacking, the lower Ball Joint would not let loose.
The upper popped free, but the lower was hard stuck.

Since I knew I was replacing the Ball Joints anyways, I wasn't concerned about damaging them.
I used the Pickle Fork like this, and the lower BJ let loose in about 3 hard hits.

1709156626054.png


My concern at this point looking back at my process, is that the pickle fork COULD have easily bent the C...
(I did not consider this at the time, but looking back at this photo now, I can see where that could have easily become an issue)

I guess to note, everything reinstalled smoothly and correctly, I didn't have to fight anything, and the LJ is driving great.
So i'm fairly sure the 'C's are fine, although I would like to know how to check...


mrblaine said:
7- Where is the other side of the lower cotter pin, I see one leg, not both.
Click to expand...

I made sure to do things slow and steady, and set the cotter pins correctly.
But now that you say that, the photo does look like only one leg for some reason...

That's concerning enough, I'll go out to the garage shortly and double check/update.
It might be the photo angle, or the damn thing might only have one leg and I overlooked it.
 
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