Replaced the 5.5yr old battery that was definitely showing signs of weakness with an Odyssey extreme battery.
The required pic per forum rules.
The required pic per forum rules.
Great battery.Replaced the 5.5yr old battery that was definitely showing signs of weakness with an Odyssey extreme battery.
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The required pic per forum rules.
Great battery.
What are the battery terminals? I need to replace my OEM terminals.
Brass. Same size as OEM
Are those just covers?
What are the battery terminals? I need to replace my OEM terminals.
Nice job. Time to get rid of those milk jugs next.
Those are nice, I have the kit from JeepCables.com. My battery cables and terminals looked awful, so it was easier to replace everything. They seem well made, and it definitely cranks over faster. I'm sure you could make it yourself cheaper though if you have the time.
Opened the box I got from @inkedrose this morning just before work to take in the new-to-me urethane fender flairs he graciously sent my way and LOW and BEHOLD.... STICKERS!
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Butt dyno can already feel the extra 5 HP. Thank you sir!
Finished up my 2 tire inflator/deflator…. we’ll see how it works.
While I was doing that I had to keep my grandson occupied
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That is definitely repairable by a competent, old-school radiator shop, and it looks like a contact wound, rather than a corrosion pinhole, which is good. Corrosion pinholes mean it's likely to see more soon. Is it worth it? Only if the rest of the radiator is in good shape. The common failure seems to be the top plastic tank splitting. Look at that closely for signs of cracking. Here's some posts with pics:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/is-this-radiator-crack-as-bad-as-i-think-it-is.34389/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/cracked-radiator-question.76825/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-long-till-she-blows.41504/
I think I'm going to try to pre-empt my radiator cracking at the top by epoxying on some aluminum or stainless shim stock to add some stress relief for the plastic. I did the same for my door panels, where they typically crack at the top towards the front. So far, that's worked out.
Yesterday, but I'm not ready to work again today lol.
The timing cover was missing a fastener and the one below it was loose.
Along the way, someone put the seal in dry but put rtv over it to address a leak.
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The chain was super loose and the guide was in two pieces, so I installed a melling kit that I had on hand.
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Replaced the sprockets & chain and then installed the seal and cover. There was no splash guard on the crankshaft. Hopefully, that won’t undermine my efforts.
I cleaned the threads well with many Q-tips and brake cleaner. Used a combination of the Fel-pro gasket and light RTV (The Right Stuff) since the cover had nicks. Going to replace the HB as well since it’s showing wear.
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The starter looked as grimy as the timing cover so I cleaned that up as well.
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Next up is the rear main seal and oil pump. I just read about the new pickup being difficult to install unless a tool is use (no idea what tool exist for that).
I let the engine drip on a trash bag over night that I mounted with a bunch of magnets to keep dirt out. The bag and magnet trick works well for covering open axle/differential.
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The tool for oil pump tube.
I have no experience with this, but just happen to come across it. I’d think it would be easy to make for the knowledge and right tools. Or improvising with common tools and hammer. LOL
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A69QI2?tag=wranglerorg-20
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