What did you do to your TJ today?

The weather was decent so I diagnosed a water leak on the passenger's side of Tessie earlier...and discovered it was due to yet another poorly manufactured replacement door seal. It'd be really nice if someone on this planet could properly replicate the factory door seals, particularly now as I also discovered the factory seal on the driver's door has a tear in it and will need to be replaced in the very near future.
 
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chili_pepper said:
The weather was decent so I diagnosed a water leak on the passenger's side of Tessie earlier...and discovered it was due to yet another poorly manufactured replacement door seal. It'd be really nice if someone on this planet could properly replicate the factory door seals, particularly now as I also discovered the factory seal on the driver's door has a tear in it and will need to be replaced in the very near future.
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Not sure what you're using currently, but I ordered APDTY door seals from Amazon based on some videos and reviews I saw. Crown (what I desperately tried to avoid) showed up. I called and was informed Crown is their supplier for these seals and if I had an issue I could return within 30 days. The Crown seals I got from Quadratec were pure trash and wouldn't even fit. These fit perfectly and haven't leaked a drop so far.
 
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WVJeep304 said:
Not sure what you're using currently, but I ordered APDTY door seals from Amazon based on some videos and reviews I saw. Crown (what I desperately tried to avoid) showed up. I called and was informed Crown is their supplier for these seals and if I had an issue I could return within 30 days. The Crown seals I got from Quadratec were pure trash and wouldn't even fit. These fit perfectly and haven't leaked a drop so far.
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I second the APDTY seals from Amazon. High quality, fit great, and seals better than OEM. I used them on all of my seals in my 2000. The only complaint was I have to shut my door harder unless there is another door or hatch open.
 
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WVJeep304 said:
I ordered APDTY door seals from Amazon based on some videos and reviews I saw
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I did this as well. If I recall, what showed up had no branding so I can't say who made what I actually got, but I can say the seal didn't do the job. The current seal is from Fairchild Industries and it isn't any better, might actually be worse.

I haven't had an issue with fit on any of them thus far, in so far as fitting the door itself (plastic pin quantities and locations, size/length of seal). The issue I'm having is the profile and rubber types uses for specific features, and how those features seal to the door jamb in the tub and hardtop roof. The main problem areas are the top and upper forward edges. Without photos, attempting to go into any more detail at the moment would probably prove pointless, but I'm finding the whole thing a bit frustrating as the passenger footwell gets soaked every time it rains. Instead of sealing and diverting water, it would seem to be doing the exact opposite. Right now I'm in for ~$100 of seals on the passenger door alone and I'm not sure where else to look for decent parts.

Oh, and the door is very hard to close, true for both replacement seals so far. I'll see about getting some photos to better illustrate the issues.
 
chili_pepper said:
I did this as well. If I recall, what showed up had no branding so I can't say who made what I actually got, but I can say the seal didn't do the job. The current seal is from Fairchild Industries and it isn't any better, might actually be worse.

I haven't had an issue with fit on any of them thus far, in so far as fitting the door itself (plastic pin quantities and locations, size/length of seal). The issue I'm having is the profile and rubber types uses for specific features, and how those features seal to the door jamb in the tub and hardtop roof. The main problem areas are the top and upper forward edges. Without photos, attempting to go into any more detail at the moment would probably prove pointless, but I'm finding the whole thing a bit frustrating as the passenger footwell gets soaked every time it rains. Instead of sealing and diverting water, it would seem to be doing the exact opposite. Right now I'm in for ~$100 of seals on the passenger door alone and I'm not sure where else to look for decent parts.

Oh, and the door is very hard to close, true for both replacement seals so far. I'll see about getting some photos to better illustrate the issues.
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No need to explain any further, as I dealt with exactly the same. What I've determined is all brands are about the same level of crap. However, some decent seals accidentally make it through the cracks on occasion.

My advice would be to order from Amazon and if they don't fit/function properly, return them and reorder until you end up with some that do. It's a hassle that shouldn't be necessary, but i don't know any other way.
 
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Installed these bolt-on ASFIR front LCA skids - for whatever good they may do me. I don't know why they're shaped differently from each other.

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I spent a good part of the day doing the final assembly and installation of a winters long restoration project of a set of half doors.

I got the doors aligned. The uppers? Those aren't working out so well. They hit my doors-off mirrors when putting them on and regardless of any of my feeble attempts, I can't get them aligned so the doors close without slamming them. The uppers are then deranged enough that there are gaps between the upper and door surround.

I don't think these are worth the effort. I'll probably sell them before summer comes. What a waste of time, money and energy.
 
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MikekiM said:
I spent a good part of the day doing the final assembly and installation of a winters long restoration project of a set of half doors.

I got the doors aligned. The uppers? Those aren't working out so well. They hit my doors-off mirrors when putting them on and regardless of any of my feeble attempts, I can't get them aligned so the doors close without slamming them. The uppers are then deranged enough that there are gaps between the upper and door surround.

I don't think these are worth the effort. I'll probably sell them before summer comes. What a waste of time, money and energy.
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Post pics. Aligning uppers is a major PITA but once you get it done, they will be leak free and just drop in. Depending on how old your upper frames are, they may need some decent bending. Drill jig holes in fence post so you don’t damage your doors.

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red02tj said:
Post pics. Aligning uppers is a major PITA but once you get it done, they will be leak free and just drop in. Depending on how old your upper frames are, they may need some decent bending. Drill jig holes in fence post so you don’t damage your doors.

View attachment 510386
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I have thought about you posting this image ever since I bought (and began refurbishing) an old pair of doors and uppers.
 
Installed the new gas tank and 2 of the hoses when connected don't give me a solid click knowing they are in place. Maybe I need new clips? Anyway I will find out when I put in some gas and start it. Hopefully the hoses don't come flying off and spraying fuel everywhere.
 
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I had a scary moment yesterday when I thought I was all done with the FMS and RMS job and was adding coolant to the system.

The coolant shot three feet in the air out of my radiator like Old Faithful, and the ECTs went from registering at 190 to 240 in a blink of an eye.

I instantly called Blaine bc I didn’t have time to fuck around. He was kind ebough to answer and predicted that the Mopar thermostat’s jiggler didn’t open. Thankfully he was correct, so I didn’t have to redo the timing chain work or reopen the cooling system to check for obstructions.

Timing cover and RMS appear to be dry for now.

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MikekiM said:
I spent a good part of the day doing the final assembly and installation of a winters long restoration project of a set of half doors.

I got the doors aligned. The uppers? Those aren't working out so well. They hit my doors-off mirrors when putting them on and regardless of any of my feeble attempts, I can't get them aligned so the doors close without slamming them. The uppers are then deranged enough that there are gaps between the upper and door surround.

I don't think these are worth the effort. I'll probably sell them before summer comes. What a waste of time, money and energy.
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MikeiM:

Don't give up! I think the others are right in that the problem is that your uppers are - and this is a highly technical term - caddywompus. :ROFLMAO:

When I restored mine last summer, I only had lowers. I bought the BullDawg uppers new, which can't bend, and they fit great:

IMG_5535.JPG


I think you just need to either tweak your uppers, or get new ones.
 
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97JadeTJ said:
Began removing everything off the front end to get it ready for the ORO Swayloc, UCF bumper, Savvy winch guard and WRG recovery gear…

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Had a local paint dealer scan my paint and mix up a couple cans of matching paint for the doors… I think it turned out pretty good for rattle can…

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Looking good! It always surprises me how similar the scenery such as that in your first picture looks to what we have here in NC... I've noticed that quite a bit recently in your posts

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red02tj said:
Post pics. Aligning uppers is a major PITA but once you get it done, they will be leak free and just drop in. Depending on how old your upper frames are, they may need some decent bending. Drill jig holes in fence post so you don’t damage your doors.

View attachment 510386
Click to expand...
I took the mirrors off my full doors a long time ago (and wasn't going to put any on the half doors either) and mounted them on the a-pillar so I don't have to mess around with mirrors when swapping/removing doors. The very front lower corner of the upper hits the mirror bracket. I can get the uppers in but I have to put the front pin in a half inch or so, then pivot the upper on that pin and try to get the others in.

I think I have the doors aligned okay. They don't close as good as my full doors but they could be okay.

What are you supposed to do with the weather stripping dangling at the front and back of the uppers?

The doors and interior panels are 99% perfect. The paint came out fantastic and the doors cards were dyed to match the interior. Rekeyed the locks, all new handles. The uppers.. I think they are Smittybilt replacement uppers. Not 100% sure on that.

sab said:
MikeiM:

Don't give up! I think the others are right in that the problem is that your uppers are - and this is a highly technical term - caddywompus. :ROFLMAO:

When I restored mine last summer, I only had lowers. I bought the BullDawg uppers new, which can't bend, and they fit great:

View attachment 510486

I think you just need to either tweak your uppers, or get new ones.
Click to expand...
They sure don't fit like yours do...
 
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MikekiM said:
I took the mirrors off my full doors a long time ago (and wasn't going to put any on the half doors either) and mounted them on the a-pillar so I don't have to mess around with mirrors when swapping/removing doors.
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I'll never run without doors, so I just made sure I had a set of mirrors on both - no need to "mess around with mirrors" that way. I also can't stand buzzy images in the mirrors, which was another reason to stay with the OEM mirrors. They don't buzz.
 
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