Another Heater Core Thread

josephbelttj

josephbelttj

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TN
A new to me 2003 Jeep TJ. Removing a body lift and needing to relocate the radiator, I thought I’d be proactive and replace the hoses and coolant. Within 24 hours, I now have a massive coolant leak from the AC condensate drain, enough to make a puddle half the size of the Jeep within minutes.

I’m in need of a heater core. I’ve read enough threads to know the Brassworks doesn’t produce heat and the Spectra is basically cheap aftermarket. I see a number of people have gone with performance radiator (9163). It currently shows in stock, but when I try to check out the site says unavailable. How do we feel about the “four seasons” heater core and AC evaporator? Yay? Nay?

Any other reputable brands I should know about in 2024?
 
connor grimes said:
brassworks fixed their issues with the heater core and all new builds produce factory level heat. I have one of the newer ones and it works fantastic, it will just take 3 months to get it
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Appreciate the feedback. That’s great news. Is this the “arctic” option I read about with increased fin density?
 
josephbelttj said:
Appreciate the feedback. That’s great news. Is this the “arctic” option I read about with increased fin density?
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No, it's the standard offering. I live in SoCal and didn't find it necessary, however if i was still living in Boston, or other cold climates I would go for the 20 fin upgrade.
 
But, it's dripping from the condensate drain not inside the cab? This is a new one for me.
 
My understanding is the AC evaporator and heater core share the same space, so if the core leaks the path of least resistance is out the condensate drain. It’s definitely a steady stream of fluid - not a drip.
 
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Correct. It's not a terrible job. Could get it done this weekend. I pulled my steering column...mind the clock spring if you do...others have sneaked it out past the steering wheel.

-Mac
 
josephbelttj said:
My understanding is the AC evaporator and heater core share the same space, so if the core leaks the path of least resistance is out the condensate drain. It’s definitely a steady stream of fluid - not a drip.
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If you buy a brassworks, please post back with your results. It would be great to get additional data points!
 
deadbeat son said:
If you buy a brassworks, please post back with your results. It would be great to get additional data points!
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I’m actually on the fence about brassworks because of the copper construction. Old vehicles used copper radiators and components, but modern vehicles use aluminum. Using a copper heater core with an aluminum radiator makes a battery and causes corrosion. Sure, modern coolants have additives to prevent electrolysis, but those same ingredients aren’t great for soft metals (e.g. copper or the leaded solder holding it together).

An aluminum heater core in a vehicle with an aluminum radiator without other copper components seems to make the most sense.
 
Once you’ve done it five times it’s a lot easier, but the first few times it’s terrible.
 
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josephbelttj said:
I’m actually on the fence about brassworks because of the copper construction. Old vehicles used copper radiators and components, but modern vehicles use aluminum. Using a copper heater core with an aluminum radiator makes a battery and causes corrosion. Sure, modern coolants have additives to prevent electrolysis, but those same ingredients aren’t great for soft metals (e.g. copper or the leaded solder holding it together).

An aluminum heater core in a vehicle with an aluminum radiator without other copper components seems to make the most sense.
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Interesting perspective. I think my concern with the aluminum options on the market is the lack of appropriate turbulator construction that results in plastic in your engine block, water pump, and/or radiator. If someone made an appropriate aluminum core with integrated turbulators instead of loose fitting plastic inserts, I would be inclined to go that way.
 
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…and now I need a radiator. WTF.

IMG_7991.jpeg
 
1997 Porsche 911 I’ve owned for almost 4 years. $0 in repair costs. I’ve only had to change the oil. You can still buy just about any part from Porsche because the manufacturer still fully supports the vehicle.

2006 Toyota Landcruiser with 240,000 miles. I did some preventative maintenance, but nothing I’d call a repair, and nothing that would prevent me driving from California to New Jersey and back without a second thought.

A 2003 TJ Rubicon with 150,000 miles sounds like fun. Oh, you’re not into sado masochism? How about meeting up in sketchy trailer parks to get original Mopar parts long out of production? Preventative maintenance? Cool, let’s chase a series of new fluid leaks, but first you’ll need aftermarket parts from Wish dot com. FML
 
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josephbelttj said:
1997 Porsche 911 I’ve owned for almost 4 years. $0 in repair costs. I’ve only had to change the oil. You can still buy just about any part from Porsche because the manufacturer still fully supports the vehicle.

2006 Toyota Landcruiser with 240,000 miles. I did some preventative maintenance, but nothing I’d call a repair, and nothing that would prevent me driving from California to New Jersey and back without a second thought.

A 2003 TJ Rubicon with 150,000 miles sounds like fun. Oh, you’re not into sado masochism? How about meeting up in sketchy trailer parks to get original Mopar parts long out of production? Preventative maintenance? Cool, let’s chase a series of new fluid leaks, but first you’ll need aftermarket parts from Wish dot com. FML
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It's sad, but true. I was astounded with the lack of OEM support when I bought my first TJ a couple of years ago. The poor build quality / engineering is just icing on the cake.

Other than the lack of OEM parts, I did kind of expect this before buying.
 
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