TJ Unlimited Rubicon Front Driveshaft U-Joint

Danarch

Danarch

TJ Enthusiast
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Joined
Jun 20, 2023
Messages
762
Location
Orangevale, CA
I’ve had this for about 10 months now. Been looking at u-joints to replace them. Not sure if the PO ever did or not. Everything is tight and all, just figured good insurance as it has 117K on it. So really looking at them I am wondering if these are normal? I am use to them sitting inside with a spring clip to hold them in place. They are tight and no movement. This was during lunch, but I tried to clean up the inside some to see if I could see a retainer clip on the inside somewhere but didn’t see one there either. Might be covered with dirt still.

Second question, looks like best method is to drop the skid to change out the u-joints. Anyone else have a different idea?

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Danarch said:
I’ve had this for about 10 months now. Been looking at u-joints to replace them. Not sure if the PO ever did or not. Everything is tight and all, just figured good insurance as it has 117K on it. So really looking at them I am wondering if these are normal? I am use to them sitting inside with a spring clip to hold them in place. They are tight and no movement. This was during lunch, but I tried to clean up the inside some to see if I could see a retainer clip on the inside somewhere but didn’t see one there either. Might be covered with dirt still.

Second question, looks like best method is to drop the skid to change out the u-joints. Anyone else have a different idea?

View attachment 520080

View attachment 520083
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On the pinion end, that tab holds the caps in, look closely, you’ll see a raised tab on the pinion flange.
 
I can take my front driveshaft out without dropping the skid but it is tight. The first time you might want to drop the skid just in case the bolts are tight.
 
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RHanna said:
I can take my front driveshaft out without dropping the skid but it is tight. The first time you might want to drop the skid just in case the bolts are tight.
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On that, I won’t anymore, ha. It’s easier to drop it than get my hands up there with those little dam bolts.
Danarch said:
I see the tab on the pinion end but what about the DS end, circled in red?

View attachment 520096
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This is mine but I have a Tom Wood’s shaft.

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That is what I am used to seeing, the tab and spring ring. Mine in the DS end the caps stick out, but everything is tight. Seems like there would be something there or on the inside with a ring.
 
Danarch said:
I’ve had this for about 10 months now. Been looking at u-joints to replace them. Not sure if the PO ever did or not. Everything is tight and all, just figured good insurance as it has 117K on it. So really looking at them I am wondering if these are normal? I am use to them sitting inside with a spring clip to hold them in place. They are tight and no movement. This was during lunch, but I tried to clean up the inside some to see if I could see a retainer clip on the inside somewhere but didn’t see one there either. Might be covered with dirt still.

Second question, looks like best method is to drop the skid to change out the u-joints. Anyone else have a different idea?

View attachment 520080

View attachment 520083
Click to expand...

If its a factory skid it's a good idea to drop it and check for rust. Even relatively rust free jeeps have rust between skid and frame. It's only 10 fasteners to get it down. Support the transmission with a jack stand or something before dropping the skid.
 
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The joint is a 5-793X Spicer

Danarch said:
Thank you, interesting. Never heard of such a thing, but hey what is new? Instead of heating it up I wonder if I could put it in the press and press it loose enough to get it out 🧐?
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Not new been used on GM vehicles since the 70s.

Frank M said:
Pressing it out won’t work, use heat. I tried to press mine out for a half hour, then looked it it up online. Applied heat and it came out in a minute or so.
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I press them out but it requires some extra tooling and technique to do it. In the field it is much more practical to heat them up first.
 
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Blackjack said:
The joint is a 5-793X Spicer



Not new been used on GM vehicles since the 70s.



I press them out but it requires some extra tooling and technique to do it. In the field it is much more practical to heat them up first.
Click to expand...
On the “what’s new” I meant me not knowing about something, not that it was something new. There’s a lot I don’t know.

Do you think it would okay to use my 20 ton press to try and press them out? I might would still need to heat it though to get the goo out.
 
Danarch said:
On the “what’s new” I meant me not knowing about something, not that it was something new. There’s a lot I don’t know.

Do you think it would okay to use my 20 ton press to try and press them out? I might would still need to heat it though to get the goo out.
Click to expand...

You can use a press but there is a specific method to use to avoid damaging the yokes. I will post a pic tomorrow showing how to make it work.
 
Danarch said:
On the “what’s new” I meant me not knowing about something, not that it was something new. There’s a lot I don’t know.

Do you think it would okay to use my 20 ton press to try and press them out? I might would still need to heat it though to get the goo out.
Click to expand...

Seriously, you should just go and spend 20 bucks or so on a propane torch (heat gun may even do it, but it would be slower). It doesn't take long. The plastic will ooze out the holes in the yokes here.

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Couple quick pics of how to use a press to remove a joint. Notice that the force is applied outwards versus inwards like ball joint presses and the like do. This is the key to not damaging the yokes.

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