Oil pan gasket help please

Modoc Guy

Modoc Guy

Jack of all trades, master of none
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I need to replace my very leaky oil pan gasket on my 2002 4.0 automatic.

So, what’s the better gasket, OEM or Felpro?

I understand they’re supposed to install dry, save a small dab of sealant in the sharp corner transitions.

Any recommendations on a sealant?

I’ve read a couple threads here about removing the pan, and I’ve been wrenching for most of my adult life, so I’ll get ‘er done!

But any special tips or tricks would be appreciated! 😉
 
I saw a lot of fel pro recommendations on here so that's what I went with when I did mine last year. No leaks so far.

Hardest part of the job is working around the exhaust to get the pan out. I disconnected my exhaust at the header which gave me enough room to move the exhaust around to where I could get the pan down.
 
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Fel pro with the snaps that hold it in place. I use The Right Stuff 1-Minute Gasket maker for all my RTV needs. Follow the FSM for RTV PLACEMENT.
 
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I did Felpro on mine. I glued it with red Permatex cause it's high heat to my oil pan. Didn't glue it to the block.

Came in handy when I had to drop the oil pan and beat the tick out of my engine in the parking lot of a Napa after a full send on the beach.


Couple things to consider...on my 97 I added a v band connector just forward of the transfer case skid. Makes dropping the exhaust a breeze.

If your dropping the pan consider doing the rear main seal...use red Loctite and a Mopar seal. If you pull that rear cap document the numbers on the bottom side of the bearing. Check your timing chain tension. You can just get a finger on it. And I replaced my oil pump with a regular volume Melling.

-Mac
 
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macleanflood said:
I did Felpro on mine. I glued it with red Permatex cause it's high heat to my oil pan. Didn't glue it to the block.

Came in handy when I had to drop the oil pan and beat the tick out of my engine in the parking lot of a Napa after a full send on the beach.


Couple things to consider...on my 97 I added a v band connector just forward of the transfer case skid. Makes dropping the exhaust a breeze.

If your dropping the pan consider doing the rear main seal...use red Loctite and a Mopar seal. If you pull that rear cap document the numbers on the bottom side of the bearing. Check your timing chain tension. You can just get a finger on it. And I replaced my oil pump with a regular volume Melling.

-Mac
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Bummer on the parking lot repair, but you got it done!

I found my oil pan leaking a couple summers back. Thought it odd, but evenly snugged all the bolts back down, and hoped for the best.

Now it’s back to leaking again, and I guess it’s time to fix it right.

I’ve never had an oil pan have the bolts come loose like that. But I sure as hell know how to stop it!

And no, I’m not using loctite. Vibra-tite is preferred in my opinion. Easily serviceable and reusable.

Nice touch on the exhaust, but I’m not planning on taking it out any more than once I hope! 😹
 
I’ll be pulling off my engine skid today. That’ll give me a chance to hit the car wash and clean things up a little before I really get started.

Only thing I’m not looking forward to is screwing with the bolts on the exhaust. But I’m sure some Kroil will loosen up the rust!

And now, I’ll continue the documentation on my build thread, see ya there!
 
When you have your pan off check the rail to see if the bolt holes have been pulled in by too much torque.

I used a hammer and drift to flatten it out before using small dabs of black rtv in the block corners and a felpro gasket. No leaks in close to 30k so far. Even after some big rock hits on the pan
 
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For the RMS you’re supposed to use an Anaerobic Sealant on the face of the block. Some gear oil on the seal can help it slide into the cavity along with the little tool FelPro sends.

@Modoc Guy. Have you thought about trying AT-205 before tearing into it? It can restore and swell rubber seals stopping leaks. I think @MikekiM is about 1.5 years into a success story with AT-205. I just had initial success with a leak on our ‘14 GMC 5.3L.
 
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Never
JMT said:
For the RMS you’re supposed to use an Anaerobic Sealant on the face of the block. Some gear oil on the seal can help it slide into the cavity along with the little tool FelPro sends.

@Modoc Guy. Have you thought about trying AT-205 before tearing into it? It can restore and swell rubber seals stopping leaks. I think @MikekiM is about 1.5 years into a success story with AT-205. I just had initial success with a leak on our ‘14 GMC 5.3L.
Click to expand...

Never heard of AT-205, I’ll definitely check that out!

Right now I’m going to clean things up to see what’s going on in that area. Too much oil everywhere, but I am concerned about the RMS. All the pan bolts are still snug, so it may be a pan gasket/RMS seal job unfortunately! 😖
 
Modoc Guy said:
@macleanflood , any particular reason you mentioned a Mopar RMS over a Felpro?

I’m a big OEM guy, but Felpro gets quite a few good reviews.
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It’s the little tool that comes with the FelPro that you really need. I tried a Mopar without the tool first and even tried to make my own little tool. I nicked it as I pushed it in. 🙄 I couldn’t bring myself to spend another $50 and not have the right tool, so I ordered a FelPro for $16 and was able to get it in with the tool.
 
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