32RH Questions

honhon

honhon

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Jun 7, 2024
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I pulled out my 32RH to inspect for a shifting issue… didn’t really find anything… the clutches looked good I could still read the writing on them…

put it back in and started the jeep back up…

When I put it into drive I can hear the trans making noise and it doesn’t move on the ground… it did move the wheel on jackstands before I let it down…

It does have reverse and when I shift into low it moves forward….

I was reading about the kickdown band possibly… but I’m pretty sure I adjusted it properly before putting everything back together…

I filled the torque converter prior to install and added about 4 maybe 5 quarters of fluid after putting it all back together with a new filter and lock up solenoid….

I checked the dip stick and it seems to be right at the full mark… I checked it with the engine running in neutral after warmed up….

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Rickyd said:
You have reverse and first but nothing else? Those gears operate normally?

@hear ?
Click to expand...

Reverse works fine… I don’t feel or hear a hard engagement.

When I drop it to low it’ll move forward but just in the drive selection the engine just revs up and there’s noise coming from the transmission.

It goes away in park, neutral, reverse and low…

I don’t believe 2nd works which is just above low… for the manual selections.

I put it all back together the way I found it and just inspected and cleaned out all the old fluid and replaced the lock up solenoid and filter.

I torqued the bands to spec too with an inch lb torque wrench… I could have gotten that wrong but I’m not sure.
 
I did do the forward most band adjustment when the transmission was on its side… I believe I had the pump in… but the tranny was on its side… I’m not sure if that can have something to do with my issues.
 
Rickyd said:
You have reverse and first but nothing else? Those gears operate normally?

@hear ?
Click to expand...

I was looking around at different transmission stuff….

I found someone speaking of something similar to my explanation and they said the roller clutch sounds like it was put in backwards…

I took mine out to inspect it and I actually forgot it and had to take it apart and put it in…

So I’m not sure if maybe I put it back in wrong…
 
honhon said:
I was looking around at different transmission stuff….

I found someone speaking of something similar to my explanation and they said the roller clutch sounds like it was put in backwards…

I took mine out to inspect it and I actually forgot it and had to take it apart and put it in…

So I’m not sure if maybe I put it back in wrong…
Click to expand...

Also looking at the downloaded 32rh manual it says if it slips in low gear d but not in 1 position then it says overrunning clutch faulty…

So maybe I put it in backwards…
 
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honhon said:
Also looking at the downloaded 32rh manual it says if it slips in low gear d but not in 1 position then it says overrunning clutch faulty…

So maybe I put it in backwards…
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure it will only fit one way. You have to sort of rotate it to get it to slip into that farthest back thing (I should know the name of that but I don't off the top of my head). When you put the overrun clutch in, did you make sure you have all the rollers & springs in there?

I don't have time to do my normal digging into this, but maybe I can later tonight.
 
Also, are you certain you torqued down the valve body to spec? I made that mistake once, I got all kinds of weird behavior, but I don't think it was actually driveable that time. Is your shift bezel in place? Meaning you're certain the selector position corresponds with the behavior? You can go underneath and disconnect the linkage and manually rotate it fully forward to put it into P, then manually put it through each gear to verify the behavior. The easiest solution would be that what you think is D is actually N. But that would mean you're mistaken about where R is, which is probably unlikely. But it's worth a look. DId you have the valve body apart? I don't think you can put the manual shift mechanism in wrong, but you could've put the valve in backward, probably.

Here is my install of the overrun clutch, maybe you can compare this with what you did. It's the first thing I do in this video.



I love (but sometimes hate) that 95% of 32RH content on the first few pages of Google is mine. Means I can find stuff like this easily. but it also means anything I ask will be answered by me, which isn't always helpful. You already found in the FSM but having it here may help troubleshooting later. Tell me, when you put it into Manual 1 (aka "low"), does it drive ok? And if you get it up to like 3k RPM and bump it to 2nd, what does it do?


1719889277844.png


And if you did have the VB apart (as in, you removed valves etc), you should make quadruple certain you've got them back in correctly. The FSM is wrong on the kickdown valve orientation. But if you got any others wrong it could lead to odd behavior. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...mission-fully-successfully.63098/post-1161439
 
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hear said:
Also, are you certain you torqued down the valve body to spec? I made that mistake once, I got all kinds of weird behavior, but I don't think it was actually driveable that time.
Click to expand...
I re-read my rebuild thread, and the jeep actually was driveable with the VB bolts barely finger tight. Reverse had a bad shudder, and 3rd gear didn't exist, but it I actually had it on the road like this. I'm not saying it's your problem, but if you happen to have the pan off, I would definitely check it.

You can also air check the clutches & servos while the VB is out:

1719941895886.png


And then the test that nobody seems to ever do is the running pressure test. It involves getting the Jeep up on stands and then running it at various RPM/speeds and measuring the pressure at various ports. I don't like being under a vehicle on jackstands as it is, much less one that is running with wheels spinning. But there is a whole diagnostic workflow in the FSM based on those tests.
 
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Well my roller clutch didn’t fit that easily from what I remember…

When I put it in…. One of the rollers popped out and I had to finagle it back in and reinstall it…

When I first tested it… the jeep was still off the ground and I got the wheels to move forward then… there was some noise coming from the tail shaft area also…

So it’s really making me think I messed that part up…
 
Here’s the thread I was speaking of…

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1596465-roller-clutch-4l60e.html

I know it’s not fully a similar transmission… but the guy described what I was explaining too… so it just got me thinking about the roller clutch…

And when I put it in… I didn’t realize it was one way… until now.

Also I took pictures and had the manual up on my phone while I reassembled the valve body one piece at a time.
 
Well the bad news is that if it is the culprit, you have to take a whole bunch of stuff apart to get back to it. When you put it back together, the low/reverse drum will only spin one way (my video shows which way, I can't recall off the top of my head). If it rotates one way and locks the other, then you've got it right. I think it's possible to bolt up the cam the wrong way if you took it all the way apart, that would make the correct roller clutch installation allow for rotation in the opposite direction. So it would appear to work but definitely would not.
 
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hear said:
Well the bad news is that if it is the culprit, you have to take a whole bunch of stuff apart to get back to it. When you put it back together, the low/reverse drum will only spin one way (my video shows which way, I can't recall off the top of my head). If it rotates one way and locks the other, then you've got it right. I think it's possible to bolt up the cam the wrong way if you took it all the way apart, that would make the correct roller clutch installation allow for rotation in the opposite direction. So it would appear to work but definitely would not.
Click to expand...

Yeah… I’ll have to pull it again and see where it’s at and such…

I should have just started with a fluid and filter change and then went from there instead of taking it apart and looking at it…

Oh well… it’ll just get me more seasoned at working on it…

I have a few other things to do first before I re tackle it… but I’ll report back my findings when I am able to do so.
 
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