Yeah but luckily $50 and the guy who did my re gear welded it back and it looks good as new.
Lower Control Arms
- Thread starter bills99sahara
- Start date
After I install the uppers I’m going to take some measurements and send pics of driveshaft angles. I wanna make sure all is well before I go drive it after the arm swap. Just not sure exactly what angles I’m looking for and what’s good and what isn’t.
The only angle that really matters is that your rear pinion angle matches the rear driveshaft angle (assuming you have a SYE and DC driveshaft).
The lower arms will likely remain the same length as stock, but the rear uppers will be the ones that get adjusted to pull the pinion angle up.
I don’t have an SYE (yet) it’s next on my list now that I have the control arms. It has a transfer case drop on it to help with the angle I’m guessing. Once I add the SYE can I remove the transfer case lowering kit.
Okay, well once you add that SYE and CV driveshaft, then it becomes very important to align your rear pinion angle with the rear driveshaft angle
Any ideas on getting this bolt out. Why don’t people use their brains about which side they put the bolt in?Okay, well once you add that SYE and CV driveshaft, then it becomes very important to align your rear pinion angle with the rear driveshaft angle
Yeah I tried that earlier. No luck will try again. May just cut the head off lol.
I believe a 9/16 SAE bolt will fit in there, so cutting it off is an option.
Tried it again. It’s to close to the bottom of the spring no movement basically. I think I’m gonna cut it.
If not I’ll drill it. At this point it’s better than sitting still. Thanks for the response.
That piece looks to be bent in such a way that it's rotated around (hence the groove marks) from the position that holds it in place.
I'd either try to get that lip back in place so it holds itself while you loosen the bolt, or I'd have someone grab it with some vice grips while you try and get the bolt loose.