I used a lock nut and lock washer but you can get a wrench in it.
See this video for more info.
Broke upper rear shock bolts!
- Thread starter Erik V
- Start date
I used a lock nut and lock washer but you can get a wrench in it.
See this video for more info.
OK I bit the bullet today. Drill a 2” hole in the tub just behind the seat bracket. Used a hole saw with my Milwaukee Hole Hog and damn near busted a finger. Once the hole was cut I used the cut off wheel on my Dremel to cut the nut off. Had to use the BFH to whack the nut and break it loose. Then I had to use a punch and the BFH to knock out the remainder of the bolt. Reamed out the hole so I could fit a 5/16 bolt. Painted the raw metal. I also ordered all new bolts for the top and bottom. Once the new bolts arrive I will install the new shocks and patch the hole in my girl.
Just a helpful hints if you are going to drilling out bolts splurge for a set of Cobalt drill bits. Not the Lowe's brand but bit made out of Cobalt. Makes life a lot easier and they go thru the bolts pretty easy if you take the time to start small and work your way up. If you live in a rust belt state you will be doing more drilling than you would think.
I’m bringing back this old thread.
I managed to get 3 of the 4 bolts out cleanly, but the last one snapped right off. I rather avoid having to cut a hole in the tub or raise it up (so sick of undoing rusty bolts). So what are my options?
1 - Drill out the bolt and tap it for a new one. Tapping it for the same / smaller size doesn’t seem safe, and larger one doesn’t seem like it would fit on the shock itself.
2 - Punch the bolt out. Most people seem to report that their bolt is fully welded in, rather than tack, meaning it doesn’t seem possible to knock it loose from the bottom.
3 - Cut the bolt from the top. I’ve seen videos of people doing this from the top down, but is there any reason why I couldn’t get a small dremmel disk up through the shock hole and cut it that way, just prying the other half of the nut?
Once the bolt is out, short of welding in a new one (not comfortable doing myself) any other way to secure the nut? I’ve seen nut sets that replace both bolts, but I don’t see much sense in removing the other one when it’s perfectly fine.
I managed to get 3 of the 4 bolts out cleanly, but the last one snapped right off. I rather avoid having to cut a hole in the tub or raise it up (so sick of undoing rusty bolts). So what are my options?
1 - Drill out the bolt and tap it for a new one. Tapping it for the same / smaller size doesn’t seem safe, and larger one doesn’t seem like it would fit on the shock itself.
2 - Punch the bolt out. Most people seem to report that their bolt is fully welded in, rather than tack, meaning it doesn’t seem possible to knock it loose from the bottom.
3 - Cut the bolt from the top. I’ve seen videos of people doing this from the top down, but is there any reason why I couldn’t get a small dremmel disk up through the shock hole and cut it that way, just prying the other half of the nut?
Once the bolt is out, short of welding in a new one (not comfortable doing myself) any other way to secure the nut? I’ve seen nut sets that replace both bolts, but I don’t see much sense in removing the other one when it’s perfectly fine.
I cut the bolt from the top because I could not get the right angle to cut the welded nut going from bottom up. It was real easy going from the top since you go above the frame. I used this Dremel attachment that was very helpful.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-32-in-Flex-Shaft-Attachment-for-Rotary-Tools-225-01/100019434
Then I used a lock nut and lock washer to secure the new bolt. Bolt Depot has plenty of options.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Nuts.aspx
This is a great video to watch. I copied him with the exception of lifting the tub off the frame, no need to do that step, it certainly helps, but not necessary.
With that Dremel attachment, it fit right in there. I can take a picture in a little bit to show you.
If you can that be super helpful. I don’t have a body lift and I poked around a bit and couldn’t really find a good way to get at that bolt.
Stick your finger in that gap and you should be able to feel for the nut. That dremel attachment I posted fit for me. So from above you cut/slice the nut, the from the bottom you use a punch and hammer to finish the job.
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That method needs a "pin boss", a pipe welded thru the frame that supports the bolt all along it's axis.
OEM could have used a larger bolt, and a flag nut, like the one that secures the axle end of your front track bar.
Will post a picture of the repair a little later, but used a piece of 16 gauge steel sealed with polyurethane roof se sealant. The hole is only 2” in diameter.
Yeah, cool, just curious to see the repair job. The close up picture alters the perception of the size of the hole.
Even though my shocks do not need replacing I periodically put a couple of drops on the bolt threads with Kroil using a plastic pipette. You can easily access the top of the nutsert and exposed bolt threads without removing anything. When I have to change the shocks I don't anticipate any surprises.
Managed to take off the gas tank pretty easily (had to come down for a fuel pump anyways) and was super easy to cut the bolt off with a Dremmel from the bottom. Stuck a new one up there and shocks went on fine.
One question though, somewhat unrelated, but does the angle of this shock look okay? Doesn’t really seem correct to me but I have no idea.
One question though, somewhat unrelated, but does the angle of this shock look okay? Doesn’t really seem correct to me but I have no idea.
Lower shock mount appears to be tweaked. I imagine that the bolt was intentionally loose in the picture.
I didn’t tighten anything up yet because it almost looks as if the upper and lower brackets are a different angles.