At some point one can hope that stuck flat head fasteners and the reasons thereof will become common knowledge. Thread locker does not make them stick or stuck. The reason they are stuck is due to the very large relative surface contact area between the countersunk portions of the head and the hole. Add in some dissimilar metal contact and small driver size relative to the shank, and they will stick and they will be difficult to break loose without stripping.
I certainly would. My suggestion is to insert a torx-adapter into the head of the bolt. Heat that with a torch long enough so the heat travels into the bolt, long enough so the bolt and its threads get REALLY hot to help break it free. I've had torx bolts that were so tight I stripped the first one but stopped to get the rest super hot. The rest came out easily and the first one loosened enough that I was able to get it out too.
Thanks for this. How hot is REALLY hot? Glow in the dark kinda hot, welding gloves kinda hot or water sizzles a little kinda hot
In the OP's situation that temp would only work if his problem is caused solely by Loctite with no other far more likely issues like corrosion, rust, etc. involved. When the torx bolts I mentioned above seized there was no Loctite anywhere.
Any small propane torch like any hardware store sells would do it.
Yep, exactly how I came to take a hard look at a common issue and what the root cause is. Started keeping track of all the bolt heads we drilled off and how easy the shanks threaded out. The head and surface area of contact are the issue, nothing else.
The paint does interfere with the grip but not because the paint is slippery but because it adds thickness to the recess and fools folks into using a 1 size smaller Torx bit. If you don't have to tap it in with some force past the paint coating, you are generally using the wrong size bit.
