Where should I start with my build?

Reidminer

Reidminer

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
376
Location
Syracuse NY
Hi everyone, so on my on-going build, which is my DD as well, I’m working eventually towards an axle swap, with a hopeful engine swap as well(that’ll be a long ways away). Currently I’m on 35’s and stock gears/axles(Dana 30/Dana 35, 3.73’s). Overall I’m sure there’s tons of things I could and should be upgrading before I do the big things. Any idea where I could start? I’m getting rock sliders real soon, but that’s about a two hour job so easy peasy. Any ideas welcome!
 
What's the goal? A daily driver, hardcore off-roader, etc.?

35s on stock axles is a recipe for disaster. You'd be smart to turn that Dana 35 into a Super 35, use alloy axle shafts in the front (i.e. RCVs), and most importantly, get a big brake kit.
 
Chris said:
What's the goal? A daily driver, hardcore off-roader, etc.?

35s on stock axles is a recipe for disaster. You'd be smart to turn that Dana 35 into a Super 35, use alloy axle shafts in the front (i.e. RCVs), and most importantly, get a big brake kit.
Click to expand...
Yeah sorry, didn’t elaborate too much, I was in a hurry. Since I bought this rig as clean as I could find(for the north east), it’s prime for anything I want. Long term goal(10? Years) would be hardcore off roader while still maintaining a wrangler-esque feel. Again, long term I would see an LS or turbo diesel swap as well as stretching the wheelbase of either the back or both axles since it’s a short tj. I’d see myself running up to 40” In the long term too. So I think axle swaps to either built 44’s or Dana 60’s would probably be the way to go?

In the shorter term, while I don’t have $$ to find axles and build them etc or stretch the wheelbase... I’m wanting to work on things that will get the ball rolling in that direction. I’ve got a black magic brake set on the list to do next, along with a windshield wiper bottle setup(see other post lol).

About my rig as it is now: it’s a 01 tj manual 5 speed inline 6, 110xxx, very clean frame, new(previous owner) 4in lift and 35” tires and custom exhaust, high front clearance fenders and inner fenders, new(by me) oem tie rod and drag link and sway bar. I’ve had an issue with the transfer case shifter bushing so that’s on the list as well(looking into switching to a jk wire shifter setup?). But yeah, I’m pretty sure I shouldn’t regear my current axles if I’m going to eventually swap axles altogether, voiding those gears lol. So I’m wanting to start upgrading other things and areas(big and small) with the eventual goal as stated.
Hope that’s a little clearer!
 
The most important thing to decide with any build is what you want to do with it, and what tire size you want to run. Don't go back-and-forth. Pick a tire size, stick with it, and from there you can determine your wheelbase. It's generally accepted that 35s are as big as you can run on the stock wheelbase for a TJ, and 37s on a TJ Unlimited.

If you plan to run 40s, you have insanely deep pockets to say the least, as that's going to require 50-60k to do right (probably eve more than that). Not that you can't do it, but a TJ running 40s won't have much Jeep DNA left at all, that's for sure (y)
 
Chris said:
The most important thing to decide with any build is what you want to do with it, and what tire size you want to run. Don't go back-and-forth. Pick a tire size, stick with it, and from there you can determine your wheelbase. It's generally accepted that 35s are as big as you can run on the stock wheelbase for a TJ, and 37s on a TJ Unlimited.

If you plan to run 40s, you have insanely deep pockets to say the least, as that's going to require 50-60k to do right (probably eve more than that). Not that you can't do it, but a TJ running 40s won't have much Jeep DNA left at all, that's for sure (y)
Click to expand...

Gotcha, definitely makes sense. Well like I said, the plan would be running 40’s eventually, and barring any life changing shit, that’s gonna be the plan I stick to. I’m moving into the welding scene and will be doing that for a job, so a good amount fabrication could eventually be done by me. Same goes for easy-medium hard mechanic tasks. So while I totally understand that price point and I’m sure I’ll get it up there, this is what I love, and don’t see an end in sight haha.
 
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Reidminer said:
4in lift and 35” tires and custom exhaust, high front clearance fenders and inner fenders, new(by me) oem tie rod and drag link and sway bar. I’ve had an issue with the transfer case shifter bushing so that’s on the list as well(looking into switching to a jk wire shifter setup?). But yeah, I’m pretty sure I shouldn’t regear my current axles if I’m going to eventually swap axles altogether, voiding those gears lol. So I’m wanting to start upgrading other things and areas(big and small) with the eventual goal as stated.
Click to expand...

I think first would be to address the lift and tires. 35s require a bit work. Your OEM steering is certainly not up to the task of handling them. Do you have everything else? 4" lift needs an SYE and DC shaft, control arms, etc..If your 10 year goal is tons I certainly wouldnt want to run stock gearing until then. As @Chris mentioned, turn your 35 into an S35 with Revolution Gear and Axle's S35 kit. When you are ready to upgrade to tons, then simply sell your 35 and recoup a little bit of the cost. Or you may come to find out that the s35 does everything you need it to.
 
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Chris said:
The most important thing to decide with any build is what you want to do with it, and what tire size you want to run. Don't go back-and-forth. Pick a tire size, stick with it, and from there you can determine your wheelbase. It's generally accepted that 35s are as big as you can run on the stock wheelbase for a TJ, and 37s on a TJ Unlimited.

If you plan to run 40s, you have insanely deep pockets to say the least, as that's going to require 50-60k to do right (probably eve more than that). Not that you can't do it, but a TJ running 40s won't have much Jeep DNA left at all, that's for sure (y)
Click to expand...

Gotcha, definitely makes sense. Well like I said, the plan would be running 40’s eventually, and barring any life changing shit, that’s gonna be the plan I stick to. I’m moving into the welding scene and will be doing that for a job, so a good bit of the fabrication I’ll be able to do myself, same goes for most mechanic related things, I’ll be doing it myself, except for like regears and such
 
tworley said:
I think first would be to address the lift and tires. 35s require a bit work. Your OEM steering is certainly not up to the task of handling them. Do you have everything else? 4" lift needs an SYE and DC shaft, control arms, etc..If your 10 year goal is tons I certainly wouldnt want to run stock gearing until then. As @Chris mentioned, turn your 35 into an S35 with Revolution Gear and Axle's S35 kit. When you are ready to upgrade to tons, then simply sell your 35 and recoup a little bit of the cost. Or you may come to find out that the s35 does everything you need it to.
Click to expand...

So, I bought it with the lift/tires it has now. Is there a way to tell if I’ve got a sye and dc shaft already? Gotcha okay cool, yea that was something I was wondering about, is it worth it to build the current axles then sell and upgrade when the time comes. Since axle swap will be far into the future I definitely don’t want to ride stock axles/gears until then.
 
tworley said:
Post up some pictures of the underside. We can tell you what you have and what you need.
Click to expand...

let me know if you need different areas
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Looks to have a dropped pitman arm. Can you post a picture of your frame side track bar mount up front? Typically the lower end lifts include a dropped pitman arm, it is not needed on the TJ because it introduces bumpsteer. Your drag link and trackbar should be as close to parallel as possible. If you have a dropped frame side bracket, that helps keep the relationship, but is not ideal as it limits travel.

You have fixed control arms. No SYE and no Double Cardan driveshaft. You have a dropped transfercase (the spacer between the skid and the frame). Also included in most lower end lifts. While the tcase drop does work, it defeats the purpose of lifting. If you lift the tcase back to its original position, your driveline angles are now out of whack. This is where adjustable control arms come into play.

The stock setup on the tcase is a slip yoke. Theres a bunch of info on it, so its easier to link:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-official-sye-slip-yoke-eliminator-thread.100/
You also have a stock 4wd linkage system. Typically when lifting this linkage gets in a bind and you have trouble shifting into 4wd. A cable shifter takes out the quirkiness and allows you to shift much easier.

Stock steering, like I mentioned, will not hold up to 35s and wheeling. Either upgrade to the ZJ steering which is a solid 3/4" tierod (vs the 1/2" hollow tube you currently have), or if you plan on playing in the rocks, the currie steering.
 
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As a mechanical engineer, with Maximizer in my top strengths, I am going to be the downer who tells you to spend some time driving, listening, fixing ect... just 'stuff'. Unless you find a jeep that was truly loved, most people buy a Wrangler, do some quick 'upgrades' but then get sick of the small fixes OR realize, its got a ton of downsides, and then sell it. So many jeeps were owned for less than a couple of years.

Keep your jeep as is. Drive it and fix what is needed and decide if a TJ is for you. Enjoy it!

The other reality, is that even though parts are cheap, it adds up fast. For example, your T-Case lever is going to need to be replaced, that's $130ish.. dumb small things that don't cost much, add up over time.

Here is my page, and the first post is my list of fixes and costs. Remember as well, I do my own repairs, so no labor cost listed.
 
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tworley said:
I can take that pic soon, I’m back to work, away from my car lol. So perhaps on my list to do next, I should do a DC shaft and sye? The 4wd linkage shifter I’m planning on switching to the JK wire shifter setup, and as for the steering setup, I’ll definitely switch to a Currie setup like you said, but for now I’ll leave it and do other stuff first, as I literally just had that stuff replaced from a minor accident I was in lol.
Click to expand...
 
ballpark said:
As a mechanical engineer, with Maximizer in my top strengths, I am going to be the downer who tells you to spend some time driving, listening, fixing ect... just 'stuff'. Unless you find a jeep that was truly loved, most people buy a Wrangler, do some quick 'upgrades' but then get sick of the small fixes OR realize, its got a ton of downsides, and then sell it. So many jeeps were owned for less than a couple of years.

Keep your jeep as is. Drive it and fix what is needed and decide if a TJ is for you. Enjoy it!

The other reality, is that even though parts are cheap, it adds up fast. For example, your T-Case lever is going to need to be replaced, that's $130ish.. dumb small things that don't cost much, add up over time.

Here is my page, and the first post is my list of fixes and costs. Remember as well, I do my own repairs, so no labor cost listed.
Click to expand...
That’s currently basically my plan! To work on all the smaller items that most people don’t think about fixing, because as the years go on, I want to be building towards a full, hardcore, off roading setup. That’s a long ways away so in the mean time, working on things like the sye and DC shaft and things like that is what I want to focus on. The minor things. I’ll definitely take a look thanks!
 
ballpark said:
As a mechanical engineer, with Maximizer in my top strengths, I am going to be the downer who tells you to spend some time driving, listening, fixing ect... just 'stuff'. Unless you find a jeep that was truly loved, most people buy a Wrangler, do some quick 'upgrades' but then get sick of the small fixes OR realize, its got a ton of downsides, and then sell it. So many jeeps were owned for less than a couple of years.

Keep your jeep as is. Drive it and fix what is needed and decide if a TJ is for you. Enjoy it!

The other reality, is that even though parts are cheap, it adds up fast. For example, your T-Case lever is going to need to be replaced, that's $130ish.. dumb small things that don't cost much, add up over time.

Here is my page, and the first post is my list of fixes and costs. Remember as well, I do my own repairs, so no labor cost listed.
Click to expand...
This may be post of the day.

Assess the vehicle. Here is a basic rundown of a used TJ -

Needs sway bar links and a bushing or two

One tie rod end or more

Some Wire/Cables need ziptied

Toe needs set

Needs cleaned up terribly

Needs 2-3 bulbs

Needs bolts tightened, needs a lot soaked in penetrant to be loosened (shock bolts , rear seat mount bolts , etc )

Need wiper blades.

Has a 1968 penny super glued it seems to the cup holder

Needs fluids

Tire pressure varies 10lbs

Transfer case Linkage has never been lubed or adjusted

Has 1-2 CEL codes

Need fresh fuel

The door hinge pin bolts are gone.

One top zipper is damaged.


The short of it is get to know it, see what you have, as you plan your build. Then find out what a build is. A real build is @Plumber1, @toximus ,@nicksjeep, @DrDmoney, @ tworley and many more ....it isn't just changing stuff or seeing what the biggest tires you can put under it.

It is knowing exactly what you want it to do , where to go , and what you need to do to accomplish that.

This is the right place for that.

Welcome to The TJ Wrangler Forum.
 
Last edited:
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AndyG said:
This may be post of the day.

Assess the vehicle. Here is a basic rundown of a used TJ -

Needs sway bar links and a bushing or two

One tie rod end or more

Some Wire/Cables need ziptied

Toe needs set

Needs cleaned up terribly

Needs 2-3 bulbs

Needs bolts tightened, needs a lot soaked in penetrant to be loosened (shock bolts , rear seat mount bolts , etc )

Need wiper blades.

Has a 1968 penny super glued it seems to the cup holder

Needs fluids

Tire pressure varies 10lbs

Transfer case Linkage has never been lubed or adjusted

Has 1-2 CEL codes

Need fresh fuel

The door hinge pin bolts are gone.

One top zipper is damaged.


The short of it is get to know it, see what you have, as you plan your build. Then find out what a build is. A real build is @Plumber1, @toximus ,@nicksjeep, @DrDmoney, @ tworley and many more ....it isn't just changing stuff or seeing what the biggest tires you can put under it are .

It is knowing exactly what you want it to do , where to go , and what you need to do to accomplish that.

This is the right place for that.

Welcome to The TJ Wrangler Forum.
Click to expand...
Super detailed list and definitely some/a lot of those I can do on mine! No pennies stuck in this one and I keep it quite clean, but you’ve brought up some very good ideas, thanks!!
 
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